Practicality was the word at Agi & Sam’s SS15 show where the designers revised traditional work wear to meet the needs of contemporary living

The duo’s collection was borne from the need for a readdressed form of tailoring which manifested itself in boxy silhouettes evolving from the usual tight cut suits from previous shows. Agi & Sam explained the departure, saying: “When we wear suits, we feel awkward.  It doesn’t feel relevant to us, they’re such a past life experience.  We want to make something smart that adheres to our lifestyle, on our bikes, at meetings, at a party.”

With movement on the mind, wide trousers were worn like extended skateboard shorts with aprons tied above as an ode to the theme of utilitarianism of menswear, while a bomber jacket was topped with vinyl to provide functional ventilation next to the skin.  This kind of practicality is rarely addressed in fashion and bodes well for those who commute via skateboard.

The paradoxical elements of conformity and uniformity were visited throughout the show with loose fitting suit jackets whose silhouettes were derived from Japanese kimonos perfectly encapsulating the vibe.  Hidden poppers ensured minimal detailing in line with the Japanese architectural aesthetic while poly-blended merino wool t-shirts were worn underneath and were heat pressed to appear one-dimensional.

Texture was created with pleats, which ran as a recurring theme throughout the show, mostly seen on trousers varying in width.  The standout piece of the show was undoubtedly a trio of jumpsuits that also played with texture through print, which imitated the raised effect of grouting on the outside of Japanese buildings. This dynamic scratched check echoed the bold monochromatic check of the duo’s previous AW14 collection.

The colour palette was controlled, moving exclusively from colour blocked whites through to muted tones of grey, camel and varying shades of blue while the models sported not-normally-so-chic grown out bowl cuts inspired by 90’s skater boys. Agi & Sam’s SS15 collection fluidly danced between the uniformity of menswear and contemporary ease of wear to provide a wardrobe for the working man on the move.

The Agi & Sam after-party took place at the Sanderson Hotel with Patron Tequila.

Words: Josie Ayre

Photography: Amy Beasley