{"id":63701,"date":"2016-01-27T11:02:10","date_gmt":"2016-01-27T11:02:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/?p=63701"},"modified":"2017-07-20T15:32:45","modified_gmt":"2017-07-20T15:32:45","slug":"7-wonders-paris-fashion-week-aw16","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2016\/01\/27\/7-wonders-paris-fashion-week-aw16\/","title":{"rendered":"7 Wonders:  Paris Fashion Week AW16"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\n<p class=\"p1\"><a href=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2016\/01\/KIM_0022.jpg\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-63709\" src=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2016\/01\/KIM_0022-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"KIM_0022\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Few designers are as successful in building a universe around their collections as Gosha Rubchinskiy. The Russian designer has built a formidable reputation based on his sartorial explorations of youth culture \u2013 he even has financial backing from the enigmatic Rei Kawakubo, who sat front row at his AW16 show. Entitled \u201cSave and Survive\u201d, the collection featured the trademark references to Rubchinskiy\u2019s homeland (Cyrillic slogans were printed on black sweatshirts) and the usual plethora of tucked-in tracksuit bottoms and oversized denims.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">The real difference here is the casting \u2013 Rubchisnkiy\u2019s boys (and girls) are inimitable, individual faces which stand out against the formulaic casting characteristic of high fashion. Some were punks with brightly-coloured mohawks and bleached bowl cuts, others were skinheads dressed in denim waistcoats and braces. Some were tracked down by the designer himself \u2013 teen photographer Tom Emmerson recently spoke to Dazed about how he met the designer at a book signing and was subsequently cast. It\u2019s this element of personality that ensures that editors hungry for authenticity remain enamoured with Gosha Rubchinskiy and his trademark cast of teen misfits.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><b>THOM BROWNE<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><a href=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2016\/01\/KIM_0029.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-63712\" src=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2016\/01\/KIM_0029-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"KIM_0029\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">It has long been argued that the art of spectacle on the runway is fast disappearing. One man looking to disprove this argument is designer Thom Browne who, last season, commissioned the construction of a Japanese-style teahouse to house his twisted geisha. It should therefore come as no surprise that a grandiose country manor hosted the designer\u2019s AW16 collection, which reversed the frequently-referenced narrative of deconstruction.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Instead of choosing to unravel the pristine, Browne instead sequenced the collection like a trilogy. The first looks on the runway were dishevelled \u2013 blazers had their hems frayed and unpicked, whereas a series of patchwork jackets were laden with moth-eaten holes. As the collection progressed Browne slowly began to reconstruct the withered aesthetic. Elements of luxury began to creep in; horizontal stripes on overcoats were encrusted with hundreds of tiny pearls, and the previous patchwork jackets reappeared with patches of fur sewn on. Canine inspiration also became apparent \u2013 small yellow dogs were knitted onto shirts and jackets, whereas dog-shaped bags covered in fur provided the highlight of a theatrical collection which stood out amongst its polished contemporaries.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><b>DIOR HOMME<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><a href=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2016\/01\/DIO0071.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-63710\" src=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2016\/01\/DIO0071-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"_DIO0071\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Subculture has always been, and will most likely continue to be, an endless source of inspiration for designers. The likes of Hedi Slimane and Raf Simons have built enduring careers on its visual foundations \u2013 Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche is the latest designer to incorporate subculture, presenting a sartorial pick n\u2019 mix for AW16. The headwear, a fusion of peaked baseball caps and beanies, was a definite reference to 90s skaters, whereas the black nail varnish and recurring bondage stripes were an obvious nod to punk.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Tartan overcoats and Fair Isle roll-necks also made a runway appearance, offering some of the collection\u2019s most wearable highlights. Black leather trench coats were another key piece, adorned with silver hardware but teamed with drawstring trousers and cosy knits to soften their severity. The collection was designed to mirror the sartorial habits of today\u2019s youth \u2013 with the power of the Internet at our fingertips we can now research and immerse ourselves in various subcultures in a matter of minutes, incorporating their visual tropes into our daily lives. Van Assche is clearly a man that understands the importance of youth, creating a collection which, despite its nods to the past, feels distinctly forward-thinking.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><b>YOHJI YAMAMOTO<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><a href=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2016\/01\/MON0008.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-63713\" src=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2016\/01\/MON0008-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"_MON0008\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Yohji Yamamoto has always done things slightly differently. Ever since he emerged as part of a wave of Japanese avant-garde designers in the 1980s, Yamamoto has been busy redefining femininity with his combination of fluid silhouettes and sharp tailoring \u2013 a signature aesthetic which remains in tact even 35 years later. This season, however, political statements were weaved in amongst the usual heavy knits and drop-crotch cloth trousers. The collection\u2019s undisputed highlight came emblazoned on the back of a T-shirt \u2013 \u201cCorporate Mother Fuckers.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Tellingly, the collection came without a press release. Evidently Yamamoto prefers to let his work do the talking as opposed to providing written statements questioning the role of commerce and its suppression of creativity. It was significant though \u2013 just months after Raf Simons bowed out of his position at Dior due to its breakneck pace and Alber Elbaz was pushed out of Lanvin by shareholders. It was especially significant because Yamamoto rarely creates political statements; but AW16 was proof that, when he does, the industry takes notice.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><strong>Words<\/strong>: Jake Hall<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp; &nbsp; Few designers are as successful in building a universe around their collections as Gosha Rubchinskiy. The Russian designer has built a formidable reputation based on his sartorial explorations of youth culture \u2013 he even has financial backing from the enigmatic Rei Kawakubo, who sat front row at his AW16 show. Entitled \u201cSave and [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":63586,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9402,9418],"tags":[3204,7954,1715,732,6558,490,1021,234,8072,541],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v22.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>7 Wonders: Paris Fashion Week AW16 | Wonderland Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"We round up the best bits of Paris Fashion Week menswear AW16.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2016\/01\/27\/7-wonders-paris-fashion-week-aw16\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"7 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