{"id":63044,"date":"2016-01-12T11:24:50","date_gmt":"2016-01-12T11:24:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/?p=63044"},"modified":"2017-07-27T09:52:29","modified_gmt":"2017-07-27T09:52:29","slug":"lcm-j-w-anderson-aw16","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2016\/01\/12\/lcm-j-w-anderson-aw16\/","title":{"rendered":"LCM: J.W. Anderson AW16"},"content":{"rendered":"
As usual, the\u00a0inimitable J.W. Anderson went his own fearless way for AW16.<\/p>\n
<\/a><\/p>\n _arc0253<\/b><\/p>\n The Fast Fashion Grind<\/b><\/p>\n J.W. Anderson is probably the most hyped insider<\/em> designer in the world at the moment: he certainly didn’t need the press attention that came from the announcement that he would be streaming his AW16 LC:M show on Grindr. But you don’t ever get the sense that he’s doing it for the column inches, as such. Streaming on the hook-up app was, rather, the most underground\u00a0way to reach the most people, fast. Because the speed of fashion is something he relishes – not just designing for his own line but also for Loewe – in all its weird, conceptual, and shocking strangeness. And strangeness was in no shortage during Sunday’s presentation, where everything from fur gilets to semi translucent, cartoon print tops turned up.<\/p>\n Something Senseless\u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n Saying backstage that “things don’t need to make sense”, Anderson was pretty happy to put his signature selection of the decidedly unconventional next to the gender-bending\u00a0pieces for which he’s become known. This meant opening the show with a white peacoat featuring a large printed snail (a recurring collection motif, bizarrely), cream ribbed trousers with corset laced leg openings and a pair of branded, boxing-boot style shoes. Oh, and a thick, clear choker decorated with mirror ball circles. Next came a whole lot of tailored topcoats in metallic, silvery fabrics and\u00a0blousons in shimmering blacks (there’s that snail again) all paired with matching trousers.<\/p>\n Life In Flux<\/b><\/p>\n Other J Dubz signatures appeared\u00a0in the form of extra wide studded collars on a camel coat with Western detailing or tight-fitting sleeveless tops with baggy trousers. Perversely appealing were long-john looking knitted two pieces (like a snug jumper for the whole body) or a bin-bag black coat made up of exaggerated down panels. Forget just gender fluidity, this was a world in which everything, narrative, coherence and convention, were in flux: how else do you\u00a0explain B-Movie ray gun prints and polka dot fur coats robbed of their arms cohabiting in the same collection? Anderson is certainly a brave designer, designing mostly for the brave.<\/p>\n