{"id":62760,"date":"2016-01-10T12:33:24","date_gmt":"2016-01-10T12:33:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/?p=62760"},"modified":"2016-01-10T12:33:24","modified_gmt":"2016-01-10T12:33:24","slug":"lcm-matthew-miller-aw16","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2016\/01\/10\/lcm-matthew-miller-aw16\/","title":{"rendered":"LCM: Matthew Miller AW16"},"content":{"rendered":"

Pretty as a picture, Matthew Miller took on oils and precision details for AW16.
\n<\/p>\n

\"LOOK10\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nouveau Now<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

The inspiration behind Miller\u2019s AW16 collection was apparently the redefinition of the \u2018Nouveau Riche\u2019. Usually a rather crass, derogatory and classist term, Miller\u2019s claim is that this is not about finance, but about cultural capital: there\u2019s a new Nouveau, and they are those who know a lot of stuff. The physical manifestation of this were the oil on canvas coats and cropped tunics which were dotted throughout: depicting Caravaggio\u2019s David and Goliath. Although there may not be much Chiaroscuro surrounding Miller\u2019s point about the new Nouveau \u2014 for knowing stuff will not buy you a Matthew Miller coat, financial privilege will \u2014\u00a0 <\/span>these oil painted garments in particular were bloody gorgeous. <\/span><\/p>\n

Black on black, belted, on black<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

The all black thing has been rather a constant feature so far this LC:M \u2014 Anna Wintour won\u2019t be happy. Shame. What\u2019s key is that this uniform is perfect for a London customer in Winter. From grained leather biker jackets, hand sewn leather gloves, wool scarves, straight-cut trousers, and Chesterfield coats \u2014 the mastery of the all black style lies in clever layering. A new three-piece suit \u2014 made of a half-rubber-half-sheer striped fabric \u2014 held its own curvature at shoulders, hips and waists \u2014 these were particularly satisfying. Miller decided to belt these looks too \u2014 unifying all of the layers around the waist, and it looked great. There is so much potential in a wardrobe of one colour: the young fashion film maker Chris Cunniff once said that \u2018texture can, too, be colour\u2019 \u2014 and Miller clearly agrees. <\/span><\/p>\n

Gen-Duh<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Miller\u2019s cast was not all men in suits. There were women in suits too. It\u2019s great that so many menswear designers are also creating designs and samples for women too: although of course there\u2019s a market imperative to open up ones customer base. Madonna once said \u2018for a boy to look like a girl is degrading, because you think that being a girls is degrading\u2019, but so it goes that we see so many women on the men\u2019s catwalks, but never any men on the women\u2019s wearing traditionally women\u2019s cuts. It\u2019s continued misogyny, and we\u2019re not even addressing how the whole fashion system is based on selling to a totally separate binary. This debate is long, but props to those menswear designers that are embracing more typically \u2018feminine\u2019 aesthetics, and designing for women too.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"LOOK5\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"LOOK14\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"LOOK13\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"LOOK16\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"LOOK9\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"LOOK7\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"LOOK6\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"LOOK18\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"LOOK17\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Words<\/strong>:\u00a0Tom Rasmussen<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Pretty as a picture, Matthew Miller took on oils and precision details for AW16.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":62774,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9418],"tags":[7954,3465,5642],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nLC:M | Matthew Miller AW16<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Pretty as a picture, Matthew Miller took on oils and precision details for AW16.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2016\/01\/10\/lcm-matthew-miller-aw16\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"LC:M | Matthew Miller AW16\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Pretty as a picture, Matthew Miller took on oils and 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