{"id":58753,"date":"2015-10-13T09:40:07","date_gmt":"2015-10-13T09:40:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/?p=58753"},"modified":"2015-10-13T11:31:57","modified_gmt":"2015-10-13T11:31:57","slug":"walk-line","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2015\/10\/13\/walk-line\/","title":{"rendered":"Walk The Line"},"content":{"rendered":"
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We trace the 10-year history of one of London menswear\u2019s most nurturing and on-point initiatives; Lulu Kennedy\u2019s MAN.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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From the 10th Birthday Issue of Wonderland.<\/em><\/p>\n

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Martine Rose<\/em><\/p>\n

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Lulu Kennedy is a force to be reckoned with. The founder of both the Fashion East and MAN initiatives, Kennedy has been championing emerging British designers for over 15 years, carving a path that prides independence within the fashion landscape. Bringing the underground to the forefront of the industry and celebrating the youths shaping the future, Fashion East has seen Kennedy pioneer the likes of Marques\u2019Almeida, Martine Rose, Gareth Pugh, Roksanda Ilincic and Louise Gray. This year Fashion East\u2019s younger male counterpart MAN turns 10 and Kim Jones,
\nJ W Anderson, Astrid Andersen, Christopher Shannon, Benjamin Kirchhoff and New Power Studio amongst others, can all count themselves part of Kennedy\u2019s fast-expanding MAN gang.<\/p>\n

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Born in Newcastle and raised in Devon, Kennedy spent her youth working at art galleries and organising raves (a few years were spent living in Naples doing just that), before landing a job at the Old Truman Brewery straight out of college in 1996. \u201cI basically ran wild as a kid and as a teenager, so I was never going to be much use at a \u2018normal\u2019 job,\u201d quips Kennedy. \u201cBeing surrounded by creative people kind of puts you in an alternative mindset too. My heroes were usually people in my family or close friends rather than distant celebrities, which gave me the feeling that anything\u00a0is possible.\u201d Kennedy is right. Tasked with turning the then derelict 11-acre warehouse into a creative hub for east London\u2019s designers, artists, photographers and all-round visionaries, rather than spending her time overseeing extensive restorations, Kennedy was loaning runway space to emerging designers and renting out cheap studio space to friends in similar industries. \u201cI suppose in\u00a0a way you could say my \u2018career\u2019 \u2013 I feel funny saying that word \u2013 started at the Bricklayers Arms, when I met Hazel and Pablo of House of Jazz,\u201d recalls Kennedy. \u201cThey were the first designers I\u2019d ever known, and became a massive inspiration to me.\u201d It was shortly after that that Kennedy turned her show-space favours into the Fashion East platform, and luckily the owner of The Truman Brewery hopped on board to bankroll it.\u201cI jumped in headfirst \u2013 quite unaware of the politics of the industry \u2013 with\u00a0a desire to help look after designers, and the rest kind of looked after itself,\u201d says Kennedy. \u201cI\u2019m very lucky I\u2019ve ended up in fashion. I love what I do.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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Having already paved the way with Fashion East, which was becoming a mainstay on the London womenswear circuit, it\u00a0was at a CSM MA show that Kennedy had a revelation. \u201cThe menswear students were so strong,\u201d she recalls. \u201cI was like, \u2018Why aren\u2019t we doing anything with these designers?\u2019 They\u2019re all going off to get jobs, which is great on one hand, but also a shame.\u201d Realising that the talented designers in question needed a support system in order to reach their full potential, Kennedy approached Topman with a plan. \u201cWe were on the same page and they jumped at the idea when I went to talk to them,\u201d says Kennedy. \u201cWe just clicked right away.\u201d<\/p>\n

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At the time, Kennedy was inspired by the work of Kim Jones and Christoffer Lundman. Back then, Jones was sending silver-haired boys down an industrial metal runway wearing oversized trousers, strung in at the waist, teamed with deconstructed sweatshirts said to be inspired by \u201cRussian Prisoners\u201d, with what Tim Blanks referred to as \u201cthe energy of an 80s Body Map show\u201d. Meanwhile, Lundman\u2019s boys were clad in powder-blue denim co-ords and rich velvet garms with platform brogues. \u201cThey\u2019re the main reason I got so into menswear, they\u2019re really very excellent designers,\u201d says Kennedy. \u201cI also loved what Raf Simons and [Martin] Margiela were doing, but that was about all I knew or followed.\u201d Openly admitting that her knowledge of menswear was \u201cbasically zero\u201d, it was by attending college shows, speaking to lecturers or friends and generally scouring the London fashion scene, that Kennedy was able to scout out her cream of the crop \u2013 those with \u201cintelligence, creativity, spirit, energy, humour\u201d.<\/p>\n

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With the help of Topman, the debut MAN show held at the Atlantis Gallery next to The Truman Brewery in September 2005 featured Jones (who screened a fashion film by Will Davidson), Lundman and Topman Design (who showed under the umbrella for the first five seasons). \u201cEveryone we wanted was there, it was buzzing, the reviews were good. I seem to remember it being quite boozy…\u201d laughs Kennedy. \u201cI had such an amazing sense\u00a0of happiness that it went down so well.\u201d The list of designers Kennedy has nurtured currently ranks at over 40. They\u2019re more interested in pioneering their own label, she says, than getting\u00a0a job. \u201cMy biggest fear [if it wasn\u2019t for MAN] would have been being forced down a more commercial route in order to survive,\u201d explains Astrid Andersen, one of Kennedy\u2019s crop. \u201cThe opportunity to grow slowly allows you to truly build a brand, that\u2019s otherwise very difficult and costly.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Looking back on the decade, we really have seen it all. Remember the time New Power Studio sent models down the runway on\u00a0a mobility scooter, wearing full-size bass drums as headwear and
\na real life child \u2013 Roman \u2013 in favour of a backpack? \u201cI think\u00a0that was my highlight, just for sheer exposure,\u201d says NPS\u2019s Thom Murphy. \u201cWe had half a page in The Sun<\/em>, and illustration of us
\nin Private Eye<\/em>, and all the other usual cool mags. It was a special moment \u2013 totally terrifying as it could have all gone wrong, but we made it.\u201d Meanwhile, we\u2019ve witnessed Cassette Playa\u2019s Carri Munden dance down the aisle hand-in-hand with Sonic the Hedgehog (kitted out in custom CP); Astrid Andersen lead a gang of gold-lipped-guys down the catwalk in velveteen tracksuits; and Agyness Deyn steal the show draped in Henry Holland\u2019s studded leathers. The venues have spanned from the Old Truman Brewery and Holborn\u2019s Old Sorting Office, to Topshop\u2019s disused Eurostar station and everywhere between. Then when it comes to the after-parties, suitably wild affairs have seen Kennedy herself play barmaid and designers switch to DJs at Bethnal Green Working Men\u2019s Club (whilst the real DJ was spotted serving himself generous helpings behind the bar). Elsewhere, as Kennedy blogged on her namesake site back in 2009, Katie Hillier whipped her heels off \u201cleading the troops into full on dancefloor combat\u201d at east London\u2019s Bistrotheque.<\/p>\n

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The most recent showcase \u2013 June\u2019s MAN Turns 10 anniversary event \u2013 saw Royal College of Art graduate Liam Hodges and Central Saint Martins-educated designer Rory Parnell-Mooney present their SS16 collections at Topman Design\u2019s space during London Collections: Men. Having only been on the fashion week circuit as a standalone event \u2013 separate to women\u2019s fashion week \u2013 since June 2012, it\u2019s safe to say fashion\u2019s fairy godmother Kennedy was the catalyst. Now she\u2019s leading the way not just\u00a0in London, but on a global stage, with New York hosting their first stand-alone men\u2019s fashion week this summer. Kennedy is quick to shrug it off when I ask, \u201cDid you ever expect to have such an influence?\u201d \u201cNope,\u201d she says. \u201cI just feel my way through things; it felt right to start menswear, so that\u2019s what I did, without overthinking it.\u201d For Kennedy, acting on instinct has sure payed off. \u201cIt seems like the whole world is into supporting emerging talent all of a sudden.\u201d She\u2019s right, and why wouldn\u2019t it be? The future is shaped from the bottom up. The rest of the world just isn\u2019t able to kill it at Kennedy\u2019s pace, that\u2019s all.<\/p>\n

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\u201cI don\u2019t know where I would be without MAN… I wouldn\u2019t trade my experience for the world.\u201d Shaun Samson<\/em><\/p>\n

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J W ANDERSON<\/em><\/p>\n

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AGI & SAM<\/em><\/p>\n

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\u201cWe were part of something that felt so big. Very surreal.\u201d Astrid Andersen<\/em><\/p>\n

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Christopher Shannon<\/em><\/p>\n

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Liam Hodges<\/em><\/p>\n

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Craig Green<\/em><\/p>\n

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\u201cLulu was full of energy, advice, encouragement and fun. She was a trailblazer \u2013 fixing, sorting, organising and laughing, always.\u201d James Long<\/em><\/p>\n

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Photographer<\/strong>: Jesse Jenkins<\/p>\n

Fashion<\/strong>: Madeleine \u00d8stlie<\/p>\n

Words<\/strong>: Brooke McCord<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

We trace the 10-year history of one of London menswear\u2019s most nurturing and on-point initiatives; Lulu Kennedy\u2019s MAN.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":58756,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9418],"tags":[1618,3469,3119,3470,1369,2175,4571,1372,4564,6489,3477,7425],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nWalk The Line | Wonderland Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"We trace the 10-year history of one of London menswear\u2019s most nurturing and on-point initiatives; Lulu Kennedy\u2019s MAN.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2015\/10\/13\/walk-line\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Walk The Line | Wonderland Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"We trace the 10-year history of one of London menswear\u2019s most nurturing and on-point initiatives; 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