{"id":58555,"date":"2015-10-07T17:04:20","date_gmt":"2015-10-07T17:04:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/?p=58555"},"modified":"2015-10-07T17:04:20","modified_gmt":"2015-10-07T17:04:20","slug":"fiorucci-made-hardcore","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2015\/10\/07\/fiorucci-made-hardcore\/","title":{"rendered":"Fiorucci Made Me Hardcore"},"content":{"rendered":"
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To mark the death of one of Italy\u2019s most influential designers \u2013 and owner of the 70s fashion scene\u2019s go-to hangout spot \u2013 Brooke McCord retells the story of Elio Fiorucci, and how he made style lovers the world over that little bit more hardcore.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Taken from the 10th Birthday Issue of Wonderland.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"Z81A9672\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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\u201cFiorucci is the name of a man, the name of a look, the name of a business. A phenomenon. Walking into a Fiorucci store is an event. Milan. New York. London. Boston. Beverly Hills. Tokyo. Rio. Zurich. Hong Kong. Sydney. Fiorucci is Fashion. Fiorucci is flash. Fiorucci stores are the best free show in town. The music pulses; the espresso is free; the neon glows. Even the salespeople are\u00a0one step beyond \u2013 they often wear fiery red crew cuts. But it is, after all is said and done, a store \u2013 a store designed to sell clothes. But the difference is all that sex and irony.Anyone who knows anything can see that finally the entire operation is motivated\u00a0by the very same energy that lights the fire under rock \u2018n\u2019 roll.\u201d \u2013 Eve Babitz, 1980.<\/p>\n

Elio Fiorucci inspired a generation. 35 years on since Babitz\u00a0wrote Fiorucci, The Book<\/em> and just three\u00a0months since his passing,\u00a0the man\u2019s legacy lives strong. So much more than just a clothing brand, a trend, or even a subculture, Fiorucci was, and still is, a way of life. There\u2019s not one culturally-conscious person who hasn\u2019t somehow let Fiorucci\u2019s kitsch, pop-y graphics, sexed-up design and irreverent attitude into their psyche. Think fluffy handcuffs, breast-skimming namesake tees, primary-hued robots and juicy cherries designed by Franco Marabelli. For Americans it was foreign, mysterious, Italian; for Europeans it was the epitome of club-culture cool; for the rest of the world it was the future, it was aspirational, it was the teen dream, powered by Fiorucci.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s crazy to think Fiorucci built his empire with no design training. Born in Milan in 1935, Fiorucci\u2019s father Vincenzo Fiorucci owned a shoe shop where Fiorucci Jr started working aged 17. Approaching a Milanese style title at the age of 27 \u2013 three pairs of plastic shoes in hand \u2013 Fiorucci bargained with the editor for magazine columns, and as a result the brand with a strict no- advertisement policy went viral overnight. Of course, to advertise would undermine the power of Fiorucci. In 1967 in Italy, there were no radio stations. If you wanted to hear rock n\u2019 roll, you went to the Fiorucci store. Fiorucci was all about firsts (gold\u00a0lame\u0301, fishnet tights and those see-through plastic jeans). Having visited the Biba store on Carnaby Street, London, at the dawn of the 70s, and familiarised himself with Mary Quant\u2019s mini-skirt, Fiorucci returned to Italy with a mission: to free women\u2019s knees. The thigh-skimming skirts that Fiorucci\u2019s team designed were all the rage, sales were booming. By the time 1974 came rolling in, Italy\u2019s largest multinational corporation Montedison caught wind of Fiorucci\u2019s work and bought a 50 percent stake in the business. Fiorucci himself started sending scouts worldwide to report back on global trends (who can be thanked for thong bikinis and Afghan coats), and the family store in Milan paved the way for stores and franchises worldwide.As Babitz puts it: \u201cThe Fiorucci people are information junkies. They gather information the way squirrels gather nuts. Everything \u2013 the clothes, the graphics, the store fixtures \u2013 is all derivative.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Picture downtown New York in 1976. Fiorucci opened a store on East 59th street, just down the block from Ford Modelling Agency and Paul Rudolph\u2019s house. His world was complete.With resident DJs spinning tracks daily, drag-artist Joey Arias flirting with a clientele that included Cher, Lauren Bacall and Elizabeth Taylor, free espresso in Fiorucci-branded cups on tap and Andy Warhol\u2019s Interview magazine office up top, the store became a hang-out\u00a0for the infamous Studio 54 crowd during daylight (AKA non- clubbing) hours. \u201cI ended up working [at Fiorucci] by chance when I was about 16,\u201d explains Jim Waldrod, Fiorucci\u2019s downtown shop-boy-cum-art-director.\u201cI was going for a job as a stock-boy in Bloomingdales, so I was walking down the street and I ran into Benjamin Liu and Andy Warhol, who were handing out copies\u00a0of Interview<\/em> and signing them.They were both sort of goofing around me and asking me what I was doing. I was like, \u2018I\u2019ve just been to a job interview over there\u2019. They were like, \u2018Go in that [Fiorucci] store opposite and they\u2019ll hire you. We\u2019ll stand up at the window and wave, just tell them we sent you\u2019. So I did and they hired me.\u201d Switching from shop assistant to Assistant Art Director, Waldrod is now a world-renowned design guru. As Waldrod saw it, Fiorucci was out of context for Americans at the time, it was like nothing they\u2019d ever seen before. \u201cIt may as well have come from Mars,\u201d laughs Waldrod. \u201cWe had no connection to it,Americans are dumb and for that store to have landed there and to become\u00a0a breeding ground in that way, was really kind of special and amazing. It was a whole lifestyle: the clothing never really sold, we would have ten dollar sales to shift stock, but every single person who worked there found themselves really lucky that they were in the middle of something. It wasn\u2019t lost on anyone, it really wasn\u2019t.\u201d<\/p>\n

By this point, Fiorucci\u2019s cherubs were shooting hearts worldwide and emerging designers and artists like Anna Sui, Betsey Johnson, Keith Haring and a teenage Marc Jacobs were all part of the venture, each of their designs stocked in the store. Maripol\u00a0was on-board as Art Director, Sister Sledge were singing about Fiorruci in \u201cHe\u2019s the Greatest Dancer\u201d in 1979 and Madonna was wearing his designs on stage. \u201cHis mention was included due to his influence in inspiring our generation with such fabulous high-fashion,\u201d recalls Joni Sledge. \u201cWe were the young \u2018dance revolutionaries\u2019 and absolutely everything about Elio\u2019s designs fit that category. There was this avant-garde expression of freedom, fun and passion in this work that aligned with the aesthetic of the disco movement perfectly. Wearing Fiorucci made you feel alive.\u201d With Thunderbirds-esque mini skirts and lightning-bolt- lipstick print dresses on offer, it was sure to get you noticed, too. \u201cThe sexiest dress I have ever owned and will own came from his store, and his beautiful imagination. It was a sassy-but-classy, black knee-length number,with three-quarter length sleeves and this beautiful deep plunging neckline,\u201dcontinues Sledge. \u201cIt was skin tight and stretched in all directions. I loved it so much that I bought one in white, too.\u201d<\/p>\n

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It wasn\u2019t just the disco-kids that Fiorucci was dressing. Over\u00a0in Ibiza, the acid-house movement was kicking off and those discovering ecstasy for the first time were shuffling around Amnesia, to the sound of Paul Oakenfold and Nicky Holloway, wearing nothing but Fiorucci shorts. Thanks to a licensing deal with Wrangler, and the introduction of Lycra in 1982, Fiorucci\u2019s stretch denim was all the rage as long as you were skinny. He once said,\u201cTo manufacture only small sizes is doing a favour\u00a0to humanity. I prevent ugly girls from showing off their bad figures…\u201d The largest size ever known to be stocked in his stores was a size ten. Riding high until the close of his New York flagship in the late 80s, it was in 1989 that Fiorucci went into administration and it wasn\u2019t until 2003 that he resumed business under the Love Therapy moniker.<\/p>\n

In 1999, Turner Prize-winning artist Mark Leckey released a\u00a0short film, Fiorucci Made Me Hardcore<\/em>, that documented the various phases of the UK club scene. \u201cFiorucci Made Me Hardcore<\/em> was\u00a0a piece of graffiti that I saw in a photograph of Studio 54 in the late 70s,\u201d explains Leckey. \u201cI thought it a beautiful expression of how something other than religion, or even music, could inspire something approaching true faith. And that something being a commercial product, a gaudy brand of jeans and t-shirts.\u201d Leckey\u2019s film was later sampled in Jamie xx\u2019s video for his 2014 hit \u201cAll Under One Roof Raving\u201d \u2013 the Fiorruci fashions that carried through to the warehouse rave scene of the 80s and 90s are still being referenced today. Fiorucci died July 20 2015, just over a month past his 80th birthday, and if your Instagram feed wasn\u2019t filled with the best of his graphics, stickers and campaigns, you need to reconsider who you follow. Concludes Babitz poignantly: \u201cFiorucci is the name of a man, the name of a look, the name of a business. A phenomenon.\u201d RIP Fiorucci.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

\"Z81A9673\"<\/a>\"Z81A9675\"<\/a>\"Z81A9676\"<\/a>\"Z81A9677\"<\/a>\"Z81A9678\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Words<\/strong>: Brooke McCord<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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