{"id":58041,"date":"2015-10-02T09:43:13","date_gmt":"2015-10-02T09:43:13","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/?p=58041"},"modified":"2015-10-02T09:43:13","modified_gmt":"2015-10-02T09:43:13","slug":"pfw-ann-demeulemeester-ss16","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2015\/10\/02\/pfw-ann-demeulemeester-ss16\/","title":{"rendered":"PFW: Ann Demeulemeester SS16"},"content":{"rendered":"

A collaboration with Kate McGwire leant towards the melancholic at Ann Demeulemeester for SS16.<\/p>\n

\"KIM_0473\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Typically Demeulemeester<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Demeulemeester is undoubtably cult \u2013 with a central palette of black for some thirty years \u2013 the brand is dedicated to clothing the now fashion savvy once goth kids of the past. It is always sexual, always beautiful, and always well considered. Silks on silks create ghost like figures in flowing panels subtly layered via floor length skirts and blouses. A cigarette pant in butter-soft leather maintains the beating heart of the offering, while laser sharp suit jackets continue to add that unstoppable power shared by the Demeulemeester wearer word-wide. There is nothing unexpected or out of the ordinary here, however the brand still retains its luster, even under its relatively new Artistic Director Sebastien Meunier. <\/span><\/p>\n

Venus in Heels<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Sheer lurex bodies, tie up waistcoats, bullet-lined leather gilets in white and black, and dagger-sharp heel-cum-boots brought the sadomasochism vibe to fore. Each look was teamed with a body-harness or a square breast plate, all of which culminated in a neck elongating choker. This sexual power was palpable, and models apathetically stomped through the giant space with a look of total control. Provided all were consenting, this was anyone\u2019s game. <\/span><\/p>\n

Wild Brights<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

The garments were punctuated throughout with brights of yellow, green and white \u2013 in jacket sleeves, kimono-esque outerwear, or full length dresses \u2013 all of the print and the patterning felt like distorted animal skin burnished onto silks. Raven feathers were dotted here and there, while featherless quills were pushed through stiff leathers to make a kind of armour like choker or halter-top. These features were in collaboration with artist Kate McGwire \u2013 and added something rather melancholic to the collection: a bird no longer in flight perhaps? Visually beautiful, metaphorically a little reductive.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"KIM_0443\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"KIM_0017\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"KIM_0086\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"KIM_0158\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"KIM_0179\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"KIM_0268\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"KIM_0368\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Words<\/span><\/strong>: Tom Rasmussen<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A collaboration with Kate McGwire leant towards the melancholic at Ann Demeulemeester for SS16.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":58050,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9418],"tags":[6730,3512,7457,7033],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nPFW | Ann Demeulemeester SS16 | Wonderland Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"A collaboration with Kate McGwire leant towards the melancholic at Ann Demeulemeester for SS16.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2015\/10\/02\/pfw-ann-demeulemeester-ss16\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"PFW | Ann Demeulemeester SS16 | Wonderland Magazine\" \/>\n<meta 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