{"id":56972,"date":"2015-09-22T14:16:22","date_gmt":"2015-09-22T14:16:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/?p=56972"},"modified":"2015-09-22T14:16:22","modified_gmt":"2015-09-22T14:16:22","slug":"lfw-phoebe-english-ss16","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2015\/09\/22\/lfw-phoebe-english-ss16\/","title":{"rendered":"LFW: Phoebe English SS16"},"content":{"rendered":"

Dishevelled asymmetry and ruffled textures were everywhere at Phoebe English SS16.<\/p>\n

\"P<\/a><\/p>\n

Palette of Texture <\/b><\/p>\n

If the colour scheme was restrained and simple on Phoebe English\u2019s range of predominantly black, white and beige pieces, then the textures were anything but: panels of micro-squares which disintegrated into flapped edges at the sides were placed jauntily over dresses in the same shade so that they took on the appearance of soft-armour \u2013 fabric dangling like straps underneath and above these layers helped to solidify this sense that these were garments made up of obviously discrete parts and pieces.<\/p>\n

Blurred Lines<\/b><\/p>\n

Equally, though, the tonal nature of the outfits often meant that the disconnectedness of the composite elements became ambiguous; sometimes pieces in an ensemble dissolved into one another, becoming a multi-surfaced collage of similarly fabricated layers that beautifully demonstrated English\u2019s precision cutting.<\/p>\n

Imperfect Beauty<\/b><\/p>\n

Displacement was a key term for the designer this season and it showed in the deliberate imperfection that permeated many of the designs. Dresses found themselves with cleanly cut flaps in them or with hems that were severely and purposefully asymmetrical, while highly textured fabrics like canvas and flax lent a raw and tactile finish to outfits that were otherwise sleek and semi-formal in their dense blackness. It was a sophisticated and original take on deconstruction \u2013 and managed to interpret that term in an entirely different way to, say, Martin Margiela in the 90s.<\/p>\n

\"P<\/a><\/p>\n

\"P<\/a><\/p>\n

\"P<\/a><\/p>\n

\"P<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

WORDS<\/strong>: Benji Walters<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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