{"id":51875,"date":"2015-06-16T14:15:22","date_gmt":"2015-06-16T14:15:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/?p=51875"},"modified":"2015-06-16T15:03:44","modified_gmt":"2015-06-16T15:03:44","slug":"lcm-xander-zhou-ss16","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2015\/06\/16\/lcm-xander-zhou-ss16\/","title":{"rendered":"LCM: Xander Zhou SS16"},"content":{"rendered":"

Traditional Chinese silks, abstract embroidery and 50s workwear shapes \u2013 we take a closer look at Xander Zhou SS16.<\/p>\n

\"Z81A3614\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Boundaries Blurred<\/b><\/p>\n

\u2018The East has arrived. Salute and embrace it\u2019, was the bombastic statement at the header of Xander Zhou\u2019s press release today \u2013 bold as ever, the designer is certainly not afraid to commit to a theme. But this works in his favour, for while so many designers have drawn upon Asian, and specifically Chinese, cultural symbols this men\u2019s week, Zhou provides a space in which we can authentically learn about design and fabrication from The East. Redrawing the lines between staples of British and Asian design \u2013 this collection contemplates the binding, as opposed to the addition, of two very visually different worlds. Traditional Chinese silks \u2013 in sapphire, ruby and canary \u2013 were embroidered with abstract images of intricate florals and smoking nostrilled dragons. They took the form of panels appliqu\u00e9d to the back of buttery trench coats and jersey sweaters. Long line sleeveless dress-tops, and little backless halters (think nineties Tammy Girl) were made entirely of the same. Details saw a red and black Yin and Yang symbol embroidered onto black boxy jackets, while longs strips of leather, adorned with white-ish Chinese calligraphy, hung like hardware from belt loops.<\/p>\n

Mice and Men<\/b><\/p>\n

A series of 50s workwear shapes provided the foundation for the show \u2013 leather and coated linen boxed-out Western jackets were edited with nero collars; high-waisted wide leg trousers in baby pinks, lemon and black polka-dots, and grey and black stripes trigger thoughts of a contemporary John Steinbeck protagonist; while bowling shirts and knitted polos in matching stripes were paired with teeny-tiny trunks \u2013 ready for the sweltering Central Line commute come Summer next year. Boiler suits are back with a vengeance also \u2013 with Zhou\u2019s interpretation in plasticy whites and quilted blue floral cottons.<\/p>\n

Think twice, cut once…<\/b><\/p>\n

Arrowheads resurfaced in the detail for SS16 \u2013 with pointed panels of red and black (p)leather either bonded in place of pockets, or hanging from steel tie-rings by seat-belt material. Square blocks were dotted about the shirts, and shining black rectangles punctuated the line of the trouser, sitting over the fly at the crotch \u2013 adding interest to a usually untouched area of the trouser. Xander Zhou is evidently thoughtful on both the micro and macroscale when it comes to design. From beautifully cut, printed, sewn, and finished garments, to concepts which run much deeper than this \u2013 it is with great pleasure we watch Zhou both celebrate, deconstruct and merge Chinese and Western design in equal measure.<\/p>\n

\"Z81A3673\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Z81A3654\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Z81A3633\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Z81A3617\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Z81A3692\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Words:\u00a0<\/strong>Tom Rasmussen<\/p>\n

Photography:\u00a0<\/strong>Thursdan Redding<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Traditional Chinese silks, abstract embroidery and 50s workwear shapes \u2013 we take a closer look at Xander Zhou SS16.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":51889,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9418],"tags":[3465,7033,2490],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nLCM: Xander Zhou SS16 | Wonderland Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Traditional Chinese silks, abstract embroidery and 50s workwear shapes \u2013 we take a closer look at Xander Zhou SS16.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2015\/06\/16\/lcm-xander-zhou-ss16\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"LCM: Xander Zhou SS16 | Wonderland 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