{"id":42825,"date":"2015-01-15T09:00:23","date_gmt":"2015-01-15T08:00:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/?p=42825"},"modified":"2015-01-15T14:55:29","modified_gmt":"2015-01-15T13:55:29","slug":"one-watch-simon-preen","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2015\/01\/15\/one-watch-simon-preen\/","title":{"rendered":"Simon Preen SS15"},"content":{"rendered":"

We talk everything from gothic to ghetto fabulous with Wonderland\u2019s<\/em> favourite\u00a0designer-with-a-dark-side, Simon Preen.<\/p>\n

\"Emily<\/a><\/p>\n

He says he was a \u201cshy kid\u201d, but there is nothing inhibited about his\u00a0clothing. From\u00a0leather harnessing to mesh cut-outs via a healthy dose of glitter, Simon\u00a0Preen\u2019s\u00a0unashamed\u00a0designs have\u00a0been empowering women since the launch of his eponymous clothing line\u00a0back\u00a0in 2009. Having graduated from London College of Fashion and going onto work with the likes of Pam Hogg, his barely-there body suits have\u00a0since\u00a0caught the attention of music acts ranging from FKA Twigs to Kylie.<\/p>\n

After a whirlwind 2014, we start the New Year by catching up with the music world\u2019s designer\u00a0du jour\u00a0to get a first look at his SS15 collection, \u2018Bunny\u2019, and to see what other tricks he has up his sleeve for the future.<\/p>\n

Tell us a bit about the journey that led to you launching your own label…\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

I studied fashion: I did a BA in Menswear. I guess I didn\u2019t really expect to do menswear initially, but I did a fashion course in Chesterfield \u2013 where I\u2019m from \u2013 and\u00a0so\u00a0when it came to applying to courses,\u00a0it was\u00a0kind of all the same to me in my head, because I never really design for men or women. So even though I applied for a menswear course, it wasn\u2019t necessarily strictly menswear that I was producing. I just thought that the technical side of London College of Fashion\u2019s menswear course was really good and really strong. Having said that, I feel that I got more of what I needed [to start up my own label] from London rather than the course!<\/p>\n

2014 was a great year for you: you\u2019ve been busy working on projects with everyone from Kylie to FKA Twigs… What was it like to work with such empowering women?\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Those\u00a0kind\u00a0of projects are the things that I enjoy the most as a designer. Especially working within music, which is where most of my celebrity work is. Music is one of my biggest inspirations and\u00a0passions, so working with people in music is\u00a0something I like to do. I do like working on my own, but I also like being a part of a bigger, final result. So I\u2019ve done work with smaller artists, which has mostly been through my own initiative, but the big artists always seem to come to me, which is great.\u00a0And Kylie…\u00a0I\u2019ve loved Kylie since I was about six years old. But when they approached me to do it, I didn\u2019t tell them that I was such a big fan! I\u2019m a bit shy. I guess I never stopped being a shy kid at heart…<\/p>\n

The theatrical element of your designs does lend them well to music and dance, doesn\u2019t it?<\/strong><\/p>\n

That\u2019s why I\u2019ve done so many tours now, because\u00a0my clothes are\u00a0perfect for stage. They\u2019re\u00a0quite graphic, but you can really move in them.<\/p>\n

Will you always work with just women?<\/strong><\/p>\n

A lot of people\u00a0have\u00a0asked me to do menswear, actually. So I decided to do a small collection of five pieces to see how it went about five years ago. Everyone really loved it and it got a really good response, but\u00a0ultimately\u00a0it didn\u2019t really sell. So it wasn\u2019t really worth my time trying to do two extra collections. And the kind of boys that want to wear my stuff will wear what I design anyway. They\u2019ll wear the women\u2019s stuff. I wear it! I hate saying body stocking all the time \u2013 it sounds so cheap! \u2013\u00a0but\u00a0the way that they\u2019re supposed to fit mean that a lot of boys can wear it anyway.\u00a0Especially skinny, gay guys.\u00a0And\u00a0trannies.\u00a0Actually, I shouldn\u2019t say\u00a0trannies.\u00a0No, I\u00a0should say\u00a0trannies\u00a0to make a point. I’m sick of people being offended by the word rather\u00a0than the intent behind the word \u2013 it\u2019s PC gone mad that\u00a0RuPaul\u00a0could be accused of being\u00a0transphobic\u00a0\u2013 and I guess\u00a0the word\u00a0tranny\u00a0is a bit vague and all encompassing but gender and sexuality is so wide these days\u00a0that\u00a0if you are a part of the queer community in my opinion we are all the same and I\u00a0so passionately\u00a0love\u00a0every kind of\u00a0tranny\u00a0that there is so….<\/p>\n

So when you\u2019re looking for someone that you want to work with, what is it that you\u2019re looking for in that person?<\/strong><\/p>\n

It really does just come down to me liking someone and thinking that they\u2019re cool and wanting to dress them. I\u2019m trying to think of someone in particularly that I\u2019d like to dress at the moment… Actually, I\u2019ve always wanted to dress PJ Harvey. She looks amazing\u00a0now, but my ideal would be to dress\u00a0her\u00a0during the To Bring You My Love album era. Apart from that, I\u2019ve always wanted to do\u00a0a shoe\u00a0collaboration. I don\u2019t really want to have my own line of shoes or anything, but I\u2019ve always been interested in doing a shoe\u00a0collab. I think\u00a0Dr.\u00a0Martens would work well with the way that I make my clothes already, kind of like piece work.<\/p>\n

What are your goals for 2015?\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

My goal is really just to catch up!\u00a0To catch up with the seasons and feel like I\u2019m working to a proper schedule.\u00a0It sounds a bit boring to say that, but I\u2019m not very good at planning ahead. I just take the next step that I need to take as it comes, and then I think of the next step\u00a0after that. I really need a business advisor. That should be what I\u2019m aiming towards this year! But I don\u2019t really believe in\u00a0new year\u2019s\u00a0resolutions…<\/p>\n

And moving onto your SS15 collection, \u2018Bunny\u2019; what was the inspiration behind it?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Well the inspiration is quite loose \u2013 as with all my inspirations \u2013 because I don\u2019t actually start with the inspiration. I decide upon the theme at the end when I\u2019ve made everything. I find whenever I\u2019ve tried to make collections with a specific result in mind or with a specific inspiration it doesn\u2019t work. It confuses me. So I basically just start making things. I don\u2019t even really like drawing on paper: I just have these ideas in my head and make them straight into patterns. Then I kind of notice the themes somewhere along the way and christen it at the end.<\/p>\n

With \u2018Bunny\u2019, I decided I wanted to do more leather work. So I did a section of leather pieces in there. And I also wanted to do\u00a0more\u00a0pieces that weren\u2019t leotards and skin-tight body suits. I wanted to work outwards from the body a little bit more. I feel like I was getting a bit comfortable with the body suits. That\u2019s what people love me for though, and it\u2019s what I love doing, so I think I will always do a certain amount of them. In fact, the final piece that I made was the Bunny body, and I always name each collection after the key piece or my favourite piece. The Bunny was actually an idea I had when coming back from visiting family and friends for the weekend. I was hoping to do the look book shoot two days later,\u00a0but when\u00a0I made it I realised I had to call it the \u2018Bunny\u2019 collection. I also realised that there was a general Alice in Wonderland theme coming through as well, and so each name for each piece is a kind of Wonderland-inspired name. There\u2019s not always necessarily a direct link, but it encapsulates the kind of playful, cut-out, cartoon element of the collection. So I thought that worked really well.<\/p>\n

Leather works really well with your overall look, but this is the first time you\u2019ve used it again since your first collections. Why did you decide to incorporate it\u00a0back\u00a0into your designs?\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

I wanted the\u00a0leather pieces that I did to be somewhere in between a harness and a piece of clothing, so they\u2019re almost like pieces of clothing with big sections missing. I had the idea a long time ago for the blue \u2018Alice\u2019 dress\u00a0in this collection; I actually made the original sample for that almost two years ago. That was the starting point. Then making those leather pieces work with the body suits underneath them sums up the whole look, really.<\/p>\n

What is it about the body stocking and body-con silhouette that you like so much?\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

That\u2019s my favourite way to work with regard to pattern cutting. It\u2019s just the way I visualise things really. In my head I draw lines onto bodies. I like the female form, and in my mind I like separating\u00a0it.\u00a0That\u2019s the way I draw. I draw straight onto a full body pattern and kind of just cut it up and create weird shapes. It\u2019s like that whole Grace Jones in Vamp\u00a0kind of a vibe.<\/p>\n

There\u2019s definitely a gothic \u2013 almost\u00a0fetishistic\u00a0\u2013\u00a0element\u00a0that runs throughout your designs. Is this something that\u2019s important to you and your aesthetic?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Yes. That\u2019s the way I think, and that\u2019s the kind of girl that I\u2019m designing for in my head. As I say, because I don\u2019t choose a theme at the beginning of each collection, I think my collections won\u2019t\u00a0always look dramatically different,\u00a0but\u00a0there will always be this dark edge to everything that I do because that\u2019s what I\u2019m inspired by.\u00a0Music, movies, everything.\u00a0That\u2019s the way I dress: a bit gothic, a bit grunge.\u00a0Glamour grunge.\u00a0So that\u2019s the girl that I\u2019m designing for in my head all the time.<\/p>\n

So what kind of girl do you think does wear your clothing?<\/strong><\/p>\n

It kind of goes across the board.\u00a0It\u2019s actually interesting to see people wearing things that you\u2019ve designed with a certain image in mind, but they make it so completely different. There\u2019s this American beauty mogul that practically owns every piece of my collections and we\u2019ve started doing a few custom pieces for her\u00a0as well. She\u2019s, like, completely ghetto fabulous, and she\u2019s inspired so many other people to buy from me, who wear my designs in a completely different way to how I would have ever thought\u00a0of, but it\u2019s amazing. I love it. The body suits are like a second skin, so I think that\u2019s why it\u2019s so easy to wear it in so many different ways.<\/p>\n

Do you have any thoughts on your next collection yet?<\/strong><\/p>\n

I have started doing some patterns, but at the moment it\u2019s going to be as big a surprise for\u00a0me as it will be to anyone else!<\/p>\n

\"Simon<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Simon<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Simon<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Simon<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Simon<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Simon<\/a><\/p>\n

www.simonpreen.com<\/a><\/p>\n

Words<\/strong>: Samantha Southern<\/p>\n

Photography<\/strong>:\u00a0Emily Rose England<\/p>\n

Make-Up<\/strong>: Guy Common<\/p>\n

Hair<\/strong>: Sophia\u00a0Hadjisergis<\/p>\n

Model<\/strong>: Maxine at Anti Agency<\/p>\n

Stylist<\/strong>: Simon Preen<\/p>\n

Shoes<\/strong>:\u00a0Natacha\u00a0Marro<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

We talk everything from gothic to ghetto fabulous with Wonderland\u2019s favourite\u00a0designer-with-a-dark-side, Simon Preen.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":42877,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9418],"tags":[5848,5834],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nOne to Watch: Simon Preen | Wonderland Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"We talk everything from gothic to ghetto fabulous with Wonderland\u2019s favourite designer-with-a-dark-side, Simon Preen.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2015\/01\/15\/one-watch-simon-preen\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"One to Watch: Simon Preen | 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