{"id":36441,"date":"2014-09-10T16:27:15","date_gmt":"2014-09-10T15:27:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/?p=36441"},"modified":"2016-09-22T14:27:28","modified_gmt":"2016-09-22T14:27:28","slug":"profile-julie-eilenberger","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2014\/09\/10\/profile-julie-eilenberger\/","title":{"rendered":"Profile: Julie Eilenberger"},"content":{"rendered":"

We chat Bauhaus influences, boyish femininity and AW14 with YMC’s new womenswear designer, Julie\u00a0Eilenberger\"Screen<\/a><\/p>\n

With her love of Bauhaus and Kandinsky and her personal penchant for clothes which encompass both boyish and feminine in equal measure, Julie\u00a0Eilenberger has injected her creative stamp into YMC’s AW14 womenswear collection. Taking inspiration from the aforementioned artists, with luxury materials also in mind, Eilenberger’s\u00a0AW14 provides androgynous silhouettes, nautical notes and a plethora of colour and texture. We catch up with Julie\u00a0Eilenberger herself to find out how she is bringing womenswear to the forefront of cult British label, YMC.<\/p>\n

Let’s start with your transition into YMC \u2013 obviously you took over the womens line that Fraser had previously been working on, how did this come about?<\/b><\/p>\n

It was kind of a casual thing because I knew the people that ran it. They needed somebody, a woman, to come in and start doing the womenswear and Selene, who works with the YMC team, thought it would be nice to have me on board. It started as a freelance thing but its never just a freelance thing \u2013 it takes over you\u2019re life. I also don\u2019t like to do things by half, I like to see things through, so I couldn\u2019t just hand over my drawings to my assistant and be like: \u201cOkay I\u2019m off\u201d! I wanted to be part of the fittings as well and everything, so a month into it, it became a full time thing, you know, organising photo shoots and bringing everything together at the end of the season \u2013 that\u2019s the most exciting part \u2013 but no one had done that before. Now the collections are growing and they\u2019re starting to sell really well.<\/p>\n

So this winter\u2019s collection includes a lot of primary colour and knitwear. What was the decision behind that?<\/b><\/p>\n

I was very inspired by primary colour along with Bauhaus and Kandinsky in particular who\u2019s all about primary colours. I studied in Berlin for three years so obviously you\u2019re pushed into the whole Bauhaus thing but I just found it fascinating. I always went to this small Bauhaus museum in west Berlin. They put on a new show every few months but it\u2019s always really particular: one month its all about posters and graphics, the next month it\u2019ll be all about architecture and the next month it\u2019ll be similarities between Japanese design and German Bauhaus. So for me I think that just fit the whole YMC thing. I mixed that with some nautical references because that fits really well with the primary colours and the Bauhaus graphics, it\u2019s kind of boyish but feminine at the same time, which I\u2019m all about, that mixture of feminine and masculine.<\/p>\n

What about the materials?<\/b><\/p>\n

I like really pure materials and that was important to me when I came to YMC, that everything should be as natural as possible and YMC is that kind of brand. It\u2019s not always easy when you\u2019re working with countries all over the world, making sure that everyone is doing what you want, but it really makes the difference in a jumper. I wanted to bring that luxury material aspect to YMC whilst staying feminine and boyish at the same time.<\/p>\n

\"Screen<\/a><\/p>\n

What about your own line, is that something you still do?<\/b><\/p>\n

No, I\u2019ve got no time for that. The whole YMC thing happened around the same time I decided to do my own thing. I was working for Sophie Hulme and doing my own thing on the side. I did decide to do it properly, but then I got poached by YMC and they told me it was part time, but that didn\u2019t really work. And I never realised that you can\u2019t do both things.<\/p>\n

What aspects of your own line have you brought to YMC?<\/b><\/p>\n

I was always playing a lot with structure \u2013 different structures and materials and the balance between something masculine and feminine. I think my look was a lot more \u2018fashion\u2019 whilst YMC is more what I wear personally, and what my friends where personally. When I was doing my own thing it was more that I needed to let stuff out of my brain, whereas with YMC it\u2019s more of a \u2018what do I want to wear?\u2019 approach.<\/p>\n

How would you describe the YMC woman this winter?<\/b><\/p>\n

I think she\u2019s someone who cares a lot about quality, and cares about buying a piece that can last. In terms of fashion season and trend season, but also in terms of quality. Our customers come in for a jumper that they want to keep for a few seasons. It\u2019s not just a trend.She\u2019s definitely a girl who\u2019s not too girly but there are some dresses you could wear out. She\u2019s somebody who likes to come in with her boyfriend who might also pick up a few things.<\/p>\n

Or she can pick up some clothes from the guys section too!<\/b><\/p>\n

A lot more people are starting to do that!<\/p>\n

\"Screen<\/a><\/p>\n

So aside from art, what else inspires you?<\/b><\/p>\n

I think I always go crazy with different sounds. I called my dad last week and was like: \u201cI need some jazz right now, what can you recommend?\u201d and he was like \u201cHere\u2019s my spotify playlist\u201d. And then I went through this phase where I was listening to a lot of soul from the 70s, so I go through different phases with music. But its funny because now I\u2019ve been getting into this 70s vibe so then I\u2019ll start watching movies from that era, and then I\u2019ll start dressing like them \u00a0subconsciously! But I love movies and I love music, but it\u2019s not like one thing influences me, it\u2019s everything.<\/p>\n

So if we look to SS15, what can you give away?<\/b><\/p>\n

For summer I brought over some of the nautical references from the winter and pushed that more. So a lot of nautical references, sort of French Riviera \u2013 lots of blues and denims and whites, mixed with a Japanese effect and lots of volumes and blacks and whites. It\u2019s very graphic \u2013 I always go very graphic I think. Some nice Breton stripes and some exciting bags as well, we\u2019re really starting to push the whole accessories department, and for the winter, which I\u2019m working on at the moment, it\u2019s even bigger.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

www.youmustcreate.com<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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