{"id":36188,"date":"2014-09-09T11:03:35","date_gmt":"2014-09-09T10:03:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/?p=36188"},"modified":"2014-09-09T11:04:49","modified_gmt":"2014-09-09T10:04:49","slug":"nyfw-hood-air-ss15","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2014\/09\/09\/nyfw-hood-air-ss15\/","title":{"rendered":"NYFW:  Hood By Air SS15"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Providing another visual all-immersive spectacle, Hood By Air SS15 is as raw as it comes<!--more--><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.55.23.jpg\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-36244\" alt=\"Screen Shot 2014-09-09 at 10.55.23\" src=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.55.23.jpg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><b>Roots<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Shayne Oliver is growing up \u2013 or at least, getting serious about design.\u00a0 He&#8217;s never been a designer&#8217;s designer, but then again, Hood By Air has never exactly been about the clothes, relying heavily instead on its cultlike following.\u00a0 It&#8217;s a brand for the people \u2013 albeit a certain kind of people \u2013 marginalized, either sexually or by race, whom he celebrates through a &#8220;ghetto-gothic&#8221; aesthetic.<\/p>\n<p>While the aesthetic didn&#8217;t change, the execution certainly did, graduating from last year&#8217;s logo-emblazoned everything (tees, jeans, and apronlike sheaths) to more sophisticated forms &#8211; trench coats, and even suits.\u00a0There were still the tenets of HBA material world \u2013 denim, for example, and braided leather \u2013 yet nods to Rick Owens and Ann Demeulemeester raised the bar for HBA, culminating through the use of materials into a high-fashion (or at least high<i>er<\/i>-fashion) &#8216;asylum&#8217; feel.<\/p>\n<p><b>Bell and whistles<\/b><\/p>\n<p>It wouldn&#8217;t be HBA without a spectacle though.\u00a0 While last year&#8217;s show seemed to necessitate it (no complaints though \u2013 who didn&#8217;t love those irreverent blonde dream-catcher hair extensions, or the sudden evolution of the show into an extreme voguing extravaganza?), this year could have benefited from a little less.<\/p>\n<p>Perhaps still unsure whether his fashion could stand alone, Oliver seemed keen to rack up the gasp-worthy diversions.\u00a0 Each minute brought a new, Insta-ready moment.\u00a0 There was a dog.\u00a0 A live gospel choir.\u00a0 Men in makeup.\u00a0 Skinhead tattoos.\u00a0 A model in crutches (despite his lack of an actual injury).<\/p>\n<p><b>Locked up<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Then of course, there were the plexiglas pillories, which imprisoned models by the hands and wrists \u2013 with no apparent explanation (except perhaps that because HBA boisters a quasi-political agenda, its models should do more than just\u00a0<i>walk<\/i>).<\/p>\n<p>Not that the models themselves don&#8217;t already subvert traditional fashion-show expectations.\u00a0 Like John Paul Gaultier, HBA is committed to casting apparent misfits, models of varying shapes, colors, sizes &#8211; which this time Oliver featured in gender-crossing makeup.<\/p>\n<p>More surprising than all this, however (let&#8217;s face it, we&#8217;re going to expect subversion from this brand ever after), is HBA&#8217;s unlikely growing fan base, which despite \u2013 or because of \u2013 the brand&#8217;s fanatical downtown status, has grown to include members of established fashion community.\u00a0 I mean, the front row contained at least four card-carrying American Vogue personalities \u2026 and they seemed to be enjoying themselves. \u00a0Surely that&#8217;s a sign of something.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.55.32.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-36245\" alt=\"Screen Shot 2014-09-09 at 10.55.32\" src=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.55.32.jpg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.55.16.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-36243\" alt=\"Screen Shot 2014-09-09 at 10.55.16\" src=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.55.16.jpg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.55.39.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-36242\" alt=\"Screen Shot 2014-09-09 at 10.55.39\" src=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.55.39.jpg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.54.56.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-36241\" alt=\"Screen Shot 2014-09-09 at 10.54.56\" src=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.54.56.jpg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.55.51.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-36240\" alt=\"Screen Shot 2014-09-09 at 10.55.51\" src=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.55.51.jpg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.55.03.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-36239\" alt=\"Screen Shot 2014-09-09 at 10.55.03\" src=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.55.03.jpg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.55.10.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-36238\" alt=\"Screen Shot 2014-09-09 at 10.55.10\" src=\"\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2014\/09\/Screen-Shot-2014-09-09-at-10.55.10.jpg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Words:<\/strong> <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/SeymourGlassNYC\">Seymour Glass<\/a>.<\/p>\n<div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Providing another visual all-immersive spectacle, Hood By Air SS15 is as raw as it comes<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":36248,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9418],"tags":[4435,792,5602],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v22.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>NYFW: Hood By Air SS15 | Wonderland Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Providing another visual spectacle, sophistication is key to 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