{"id":336,"date":"2008-06-21T16:02:28","date_gmt":"2008-06-21T16:02:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/beta\/?p=336"},"modified":"2011-07-20T15:59:29","modified_gmt":"2011-07-20T15:59:29","slug":"christian-lacroix-%e2%80%93-an-a-z","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2008\/06\/21\/christian-lacroix-%e2%80%93-an-a-z\/","title":{"rendered":"Christian Lacroix \u2013 an A-Z"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Christian Lacroix \u2013 couturier, fashion historian, carnation-lover and all-time hero of Edina from <\/em>Absolutely Fabulous<em> \u2013 takes <strong>Louise Brealey <\/strong>on an alphabetical trip through his life in la mode\u2026<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><br \/>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-336 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2011\/06\/39754_23.jpg'><img width=\"345\" height=\"483\" src=\"https:\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2011\/06\/39754_23-345x483.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" decoding=\"async\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2011\/06\/HCAH07-39bis.jpg'><img width=\"345\" height=\"483\" src=\"https:\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2011\/06\/HCAH07-39bis-345x483.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" decoding=\"async\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2011\/06\/Couture-fall-winter02-39.jpg'><img width=\"345\" height=\"483\" src=\"https:\/\/media.wonderlandmagazine.com\/uploads\/2011\/06\/Couture-fall-winter02-39-345x483.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" decoding=\"async\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/p>\n<p><strong>A<\/strong> is for <strong>Arles<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Christian Lacroix was born in the Southern French town in 1951, \u201cWe were totally cut off from everywhere. Ancient traditions were still very alive: old ladies wore their buns tied up with lace and velvet ribbons.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>B <\/strong>is for <strong>Bustles<\/strong>, <strong>Bows<\/strong> and <strong>Bullfighters<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>In 1987, Lacroix got the ultimate fashion accessory, his own couture house. \u201cThe press reaction to the collection was incredibly exciting. But I was moved because my mother and all my friends from the South were there. They acted like they were in a bullfighting arena and shouted \u2018Hol\u00e9! Hol\u00e9!\u2019 at the models, who were having so much fun to be gypsies and bullfighters!\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>C<\/strong> is for <strong>Carnations<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Guests at a Lacroix show always find a carnation on their chair. \u201cI remember going to the market with my grandmother as a boy and seeing the endless stalls selling fish, bread, fruit and, everywhere, carnations&#8230;\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>D<\/strong> is for <strong>Daring<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Asked what sort of woman wears a Lacroix gown, the couturier answers \u201ca daring one\u201d. \u201cMy clothes are like costumes,\u201d he continues, \u201chelping people to play their own characters in a life that might be tough.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u2026 and for <strong>David Lynch<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>One of Lacroix\u2019s favourite filmmakers. \u201cI love his way of mixing reality and sur-reality,\u201d he explains. \u201cI feel that my own dreams and nightmares belong to the same territory. And Twin Peaks\u2026 oh-la-la.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>E<\/strong> is for the <strong>Eighties<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Given that his own label has been described as the epitome of 80s excess, it comes as a surprise to learn that Lacroix was \u201cnot so in love with the 80s\u201d in fashion terms. \u201cFor me it was the era of Dynasty and Dallas, a decade of big spenders and new money, open-minded, but a little bit vulgar,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n<p><strong>F <\/strong>is for <strong>Freelance<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Lacroix is happy to be what he calls \u201ca mercenary for hire\u201d. Highlights of his non-couture CV include designing the stewardess uniforms for Air France in 2002; the interiors of a third generation of TGV trains in 2003; and rooms in several Parisian hotels including Le Petit Moulin. He is now working on designs for a new tramline in Montpellier.<\/p>\n<p><strong>G<\/strong> is for <strong>Gypsies<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The gypsies of Proven\u00e7e have held Lacroix in their thrall since he was a small boy, but as a designer he has had to struggle with their overweening influence. \u201cAfter the first collection people had it in mind that the House of Lacroix was the House of the Gypsies, the House of the South.\u201d<br \/>\nH is for Haute Couture<\/p>\n<p>When Maison Lacroix became the first haute couture house to open in Paris since Gaultier in 1976, its director was hailed as fashion\u2019s new Messiah. The international press went ballistic: \u2018Vive Lacroix! There&#8217;s been nothing like it in 25 years,\u2019 proclaimed The Sunday Times.<\/p>\n<p>\u2026and for <strong>History<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>As a boy, he would spend hours poring over old fashion magazines in his grandparents\u2019 attic: \u201cMy grandmother was born at the end of the 19th century and she used to talk to me about her own grandmother who was born in the 18th century, whom she knew\u2026 so I always felt very connected to the past.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>I <\/strong>is for <strong>Infamy<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>In the 90s, Jennifer Saunders made Lacroix the favourite designer of her comedy creation Edina Monsoon, Absolutely Fabulous\u2019 ghastly fashion-victim heroine. \u201cI really enjoyed being caricatured through AbFab. I\u2019m not saying my fashion is vulgar, but it is not based on so-called good taste, and it is a bit loud for some people.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>J<\/strong> is for <strong>Jean-Jacques Picart<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>It was PR giant Jean-Jacques Picart who made possible Lacroix\u2019s meteoric rise in French fashion. In 1987 Picart persuaded financiers to stump up the $88 million needed to begin Maison Lacroix. \u201cThat was the beginning of Lacroix,\u201d insists Picart. \u201cIt was like a shout.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>K<\/strong> is for <strong>Knighthood<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>In 2002 the designer was awarded the Chevalier de la l\u00e9gion d\u2019honneur, the highest decoration in France. \u201cI was proud but I was feeling that it was a little bit undeserved,\u201d he confesses.<\/p>\n<p><strong>L<\/strong> and <strong>M<\/strong> are for <strong>Love<\/strong> and <strong>Marriage<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>He has been married to Fran\u00e7oise Roesensthiel since 1989. The pair met in Paris in 1973 \u2013 when Lacroix was a student at the Sorbonne and Roesensthiel an assistant at Jean-Jacques Picart\u2019s PR agency.<\/p>\n<p><strong>N<\/strong> is for <strong>New Collection<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe new collection is inspired by The Princesse de Cl\u00eaves, a French 18th century novel that I love. It has the feeling of Jean Cocteau\u2019s film La Belle et La B\u00eate, but with short skirts.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>O<\/strong> is for <strong>Oscar Wilde <\/strong><\/p>\n<p>\u201cI read that Wilde felt that Basil, the painter character, was his true self: modest, sensitive and shy; and that the cynical and hedonistic Lord Henry is who people thought Wilde was\u2026I loved this because it reflected my own experience: people were always thinking I was somebody else, a bit more loud or more eccentric than I was.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>P<\/strong> is for <strong>Le Pouf<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The Lacroix puffball skirt or \u2018pouf\u2019 was an instant fashion classic. \u201cI was alone in a hotel in Florence, cutting up some old fashion engravings from the 1880s with bustles, and I was playing around and I had the idea to cut the skirt like a mini-skirt and to put some modern legs underneath.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>Q<\/strong> is for <strong>Quotation<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Lacroix has two mottos. Jean Cocteau: \u201cWhat the public criticizes in you, cultivate. It is you.\u201d And Nietzsche: \u201cOne must still have chaos in oneself to give birth to a dancing star.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>R<\/strong> is for <strong>Ready-To-Wear<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt was a relief to be free of LVMH and it was a good opportunity for me to learn to fight,\u201d he says. \u201cWhat we are trying to build now is to stay credible in the luxury field. To do that we have to be even more exclusive.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>S<\/strong> is for <strong>Sketching<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>\u201cI sketch every day.\u201d He doesn\u2019t carry around a notebook, preferring instead to scribble with biro, felt-tip or ink on the back of scrap-paper: \u201cI am a bordel [a mess],\u201d he laughs.<\/p>\n<p><strong>T<\/strong> is for the <strong>Theatre<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>\u201cAs a child I lived by proxy through movies, literature, theatre. So my real life was when the curtain was up, when the lights were down. Escapism is one of my favourite English words. And nowadays the dreams of the child I was take form in my job, which is not only couture, but theatre costume design. I do one production a year.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>U<\/strong> is for <strong>Ups and Downs <\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Black Monday, the biggest stockmarket crash in history, happened just nine days before Lacroix\u2019s New York debut in October 1987. \u201cEverything became minimal,\u201d he recalls. \u201cJust a few months later, even the richest women I knew \u2013 who\u2019d all worn big poufs and big jewels and big hairdos \u2013 were in menswear with black glasses.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>V <\/strong>is for the <strong>Virgin Mary <\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Lacroix\u2019s mother wanted him to be a priest.: \u201cI hate anything connected with the Pope, I think it\u2019s terrible his attitude to sex and AIDS. But I love to be in churches and in the South we have a deep love for the Virgin Mary. People talk to her as if she were a real woman: \u2018You\u2019re a bitch, I prayed to you but you didn\u2019t do anything for me&#8230;\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>W<\/strong> is for <strong>Wedding Dress <\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Each Lacroix show ends with a bride: \u201cA wedding dress epitomises every woman&#8217;s dream of being centre stage; as though it were the theatre or ballet.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p><strong>X<\/strong> is for <strong>XCLX<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>\u201cMy name doesn\u2019t belong to me I was so embarrassed,\u201d he laughs. \u201cWhen the time came to add my signature to the contract, I hadn\u2019t thought what to call the company. My lawyer had XLX as shorthand for my name on the front of his case file, so we went for a variation on that!\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>Y<\/strong> is for <strong>Yves Saint Laurent <\/strong><\/p>\n<p>\u201cHe influenced us all. The first time I saw his face and his work was on the cover of Paris-Match in 1958. I was seven years old and even at that age I could see these girls were not the usual French elegant woman. This very tiny, thin guy became such an important old man: he helped French fashion to enter modernity. And he was so, so nice. I loved his voice, his culture\u2026 the mass was very emotional. I never loved him as deeply as I did during his funeral.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>Z<\/strong> is for <strong>Zeitgeist<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Do you think you are in tune with the spirit of the age? \u201cI love discovering anything brand new; I love to feel the breeze of the moment&#8230; I strongly believe that both past and future coexist in the present.\u201d<br \/>\nThe Recontres d\u2019Arles photographic exhibition, guest curated by Lacroix, runs until September 14. rencontres-arles.com<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Christian Lacroix \u2013 couturier, fashion historian, carnation-lover and all-time hero of Edina from Absolutely Fabulous \u2013 takes Louise Brealey on an alphabetical trip through his life in la mode\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":337,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"gallery","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9418],"tags":[99,93,103,100,72,107,68,101,102],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v22.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Christian Lacroix \u2013 an A-Z | Wonderland<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Christian Lacroix \u2013 an A-Z.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2008\/06\/21\/christian-lacroix-\u2013-an-a-z\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Christian Lacroix \u2013 an A-Z | Wonderland\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" 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