{"id":29755,"date":"2014-05-16T09:17:08","date_gmt":"2014-05-16T09:17:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/?p=29755"},"modified":"2016-09-22T14:27:30","modified_gmt":"2016-09-22T14:27:30","slug":"in-profile-hood-by-air","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2014\/05\/16\/in-profile-hood-by-air\/","title":{"rendered":"Profile: Hood By Air"},"content":{"rendered":"

If you’re inked up ‘thuggin’, that’s what we like: Wonderland talks to Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver about Paris, New York and fashion therapy…<\/p>\n

\"Hood<\/a><\/p>\n

Shayne Oliver of Hood By Air is in his Chinatown, New York studio blasting the Pet Shop Boys. It\u2019s mid-week late afternoon and the project team, spearheaded by the\u00a0crisp-collared, padlock-chain-wearing designer, are punching out ideas for the next collection. Nothing of which he cares\u00a0to specify yet, \u201cWe\u2019re just vibing, really,\u201d he drawls in his Brooklyn accent.\u00a0Oliver was born and raised in New York, \u201cI\u2019m a BK baby,\u201d and the label he formed at 19, (he\u2019s now 26) was recently nominated by the CFDA for Menswear Designer of the Year, a distinction that hasn\u2019t altered his perception of how they get things done, even for the anti-establishment streetwise label. \u201cSo, we have an office manager now,\u201d\u00a0he giggles.<\/p>\n

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The nod by the LVMH-funded foundation follows the luxury line\u2019s A\/W13 show, which featured old-school voguers and hair flippers to hair-raising, chill-inducing effect. \u201cWe wanted people to feel something,\u201d Oliver says of the show. \u201cIf we can bring that feeling to people: mission accomplished.\u201d Respected critic Maya Singer of Style.com hailed the show as the most exciting thing happening in New York fashion, and Oliver is touted as \u201creimagining Americana uniforms,\u201d on the label\u2019s profile on Cfda.com. High praise for a self-proclaimed \u201chood\u201d boy.<\/p>\n

\"Hood<\/a><\/p>\n

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\u201cNow we\u2019re part of a culture that once shunned us, or we were shunning,\u201d says Oliver of partnering with the fund, he continues, \u201cbut it\u2019s cool because they\u2019re liking us for being us, which is why it\u2019s dope. You never hear shit like, \u2018Oh you should do this to be more commercial.\u2019 It\u2019s surprisingly chill.\u201d\u00a0To describe his aesthetic, Oliver is at a loss for the first time since we began chatting. He ums, and ahs before saying, \u201cI don\u2019t know, that\u2019s why I have a logo. I agree when people say\u00a0I have a New York aesthetic, but that comes from the mixture of inspirations growing up in New York affords you. It\u2019s not so streamlined, it has a cut and paste aspect to it.\u201d He knows the person he\u2019s designing for, as an extension of himself and what he\u2019s into across music, art, and fashion, he asserts, \u201cWhat I\u00a0do know is that I like a strong, powerful individual who is very confident in the way they give off their sexuality. They\u2019re in this place were they\u2019re ok being sexy, but also confident when they\u2019re not being sexy. I like someone who knows how to take control of their hormonal output and the energy they put out.\u201d For Oliver and his team, Hood By Air will always be about shows, not to \u201cshow off,\u201d he says, \u201cbut to dress up.\u201d For a while the label disbanded, they couldn\u2019t afford to produce the social-commenting pop-pageants they wanted, \u201cWe were like, let\u2019s cut it out,\u201d says Oliver. Akeem Smith, who\u2019s responsible for most of the visual imagery behind the label, went deeper into styling, and Oliver toured as a DJ. Like malleable boy bands from the 90s they reformed, after their sole endeavours helped finance the flamboyant runway shows again. \u201cBeing able to collaborate and just express certain things that drive me insane in my head [is why I show]. It\u2019s also therapeutic,\u201d says the nimble designer.<\/p>\n

The early conception of the label as a passion project during Oliver\u2019s teenage years is now seeing real strength as a business, a feat Oliver takes great pride in. \u201cThe label\u2019s grown\u00a0as opposed to this thing where I\u2019m being thrown into an arena and I\u2019m being blind-sided. I know what I want now in general, and every moment is about figuring out how to get it done. As opposed to me being like, \u2018What do I actually want from this thing\u2019? Or not even understanding myself. I started it pretty young, so I kind of grew up with it.\u201d\u00a0As for other side projects, Oliver is taking an interest in music creative direction. \u201cI want to nurture artists, I think it\u2019s quite old school in a way… Direct their whole album, show them how to wear the clothes. Perhaps it was one element of the music industry that people thought was frivolous, but was actually quite important. Now it all moves so quickly, the artist gets their hits and fades away, and that\u2019s proving to fail,\u201d Oliver reasons. For Oliver it\u2019s about building positive relationships within a hub of well-deep talent, for\u00a0a consumer experience that is artistic driven, rather than commerce-fuelled.<\/p>\n

\"Hood<\/a><\/p>\n

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He\u2019s finding New York a little boring now, too. \u201cNew York is in an anti-cultivate cultivation moment,\u201d he says. \u201cPeople haven\u2019t been able to cultivate their own thing because they\u2019re so busy at work just keeping their job. They\u2019ve been thrown into a work field without having any interest in what they necessarily do. They say, \u2018Oh I want to work in fashion,\u2019 but they\u2019re not confident in their ideas because they haven\u2019t been given time to develop them. And they don\u2019t care what\u2019s happening around them, they just want to be involved. Some of the younger girls are lazy, too. You don\u2019t have to save<\/p>\n

too much energy to do it, but we should be a little bit more proactive towards our own ideas, and concepts.\u201d Towards\u00a0the back end of this conversation and in light of the plateauing affection he has for his home city, Oliver flirts with the idea\u00a0of moving to Paris, \u201cI, could, like, spend two or three months there I guess,\u201d before pausing briefly. \u201cNo, actually, I\u2019d get too homesick.”<\/p>\n

\"Hood<\/a><\/p>\n

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Clothing by Hood By Air, Christopher Shannon and Bobby Abley.<\/em><\/p>\n

Words:<\/strong> Emma-Louise Tovey<\/p>\n

Fashion Editor:<\/strong> Akeem Smith<\/p>\n

Photographer:<\/strong> Sam Bayliss-Ibram<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

If you’re inked up ‘thuggin’, that’s what we like: Wonderland talks to Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver about Paris, New York and fashion therapy…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":29760,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9418,9409],"tags":[4435,559,4436],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nProfile: Hood By Air | Wonderland<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Profile: Hood By Air.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2014\/05\/16\/in-profile-hood-by-air\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Profile: Hood By Air | Wonderland\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Profile: Hood By Air.\" \/>\n<meta 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