American Gothic<\/em> vibe via raw collared tees, voluminous black capes and, of course, Amish-style, wide-brimmed hats. If it all comes across as clean, elegant and simple, there’s a devil in the detail: jackets come in double-faced, bonded cashmere, stitch-like embroidery mimics work-in-progress in the atelier and outerwear is embellished with shawl-like lapels and asymmetric shoulder patches. We got down to the nitty gritty with Dior Homme’s head designer Kris Van Assche.<\/p>\nHow have you developed your understanding of and experimentation with tailoring for Autumn 2011? \n<\/strong> \nAfter the very fluid SS 2011 collection, it was a real challenge to obtain a similar form of fluidity for a winter season. Obviously, fabrics are thicker for winter, and we tend to dress in multiple layers. That is where the idea of the double sided cashmere came from: warm, luxurious coats and suits in a simple layered fabric. There was a lot of knitwear as well, with jackets and coats knit \u2018in form\u2019 like a pattern which also gave for light, comfortable pieces. We added tailoring influences in sportswear pieces and even in some jersey T-shirts. Some of the tailored pieces had embroidery which was done in the same way the inside lining of a tailored jacket is done.<\/p>\n Last winter was lavish yet minimal – do you think those words still hold true for this season?<\/strong><\/p>\nI do. I want the collection to be about essential luxury. It is all about cut, quality, and comfort.<\/p>\n
What’s the key piece in your winter collection?<\/strong><\/p>\nThere are a few: the deep brown cashmere overcoat worn over a grey cashmere suit, the cashmere knit with raw edged collar, the pleated fluid trousers.<\/p>\n
How would you currently describe the man who wears Dior Homme?<\/strong><\/p>\nThere is not just \u201cone man\u201d but more like 4 or 5 different ones in my head while I am designing. That is one of the big differences between my own label KRISVANASSCHE \u2013 where I basically design what I want to wear myself \u2013 and Dior Homme, where I need to keep a more global view on men. It is not about an age or a precise professional career, but more about an attitude. The Dior Homme man looks for the right balance between creativity, comfort and quality.<\/p>\n
If there’s one trend or style you really appreciate this season, what would it be?<\/strong><\/p>\nThere seems to be a global trend towards quality and luxury, true values that I relate to. I feel very comfortable in that \u201cno nonsense\u201d vibe because it is the one I have been concentrating on from day one.<\/p>\n
Words: Adam Welch<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Willy Vanderperre\u2019s new short for Dior Homme is an entrancing, surreal showcase of the brand\u2019s autumn\/winter 2011 collection. Here Dior Homme’s designer Kris Van Assche explains it all.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":1951,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"video","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9418],"tags":[261,100,479,50,821,828],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n
Dior Homme \u2013\u00a0The Wanderer + Kris Van Assche | Wonderland<\/title>\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\t \n\t \n\t \n \n \n \n \n \n\t \n\t \n\t \n