{"id":10699,"date":"2012-08-20T14:00:23","date_gmt":"2012-08-20T14:00:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/?p=10699"},"modified":"2013-03-13T20:21:48","modified_gmt":"2013-03-13T20:21:48","slug":"philippa-long-femme-power","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wonderlandmagazine.com\/2012\/08\/20\/philippa-long-femme-power\/","title":{"rendered":"PHILIPPA LONG: Femme power"},"content":{"rendered":"
British designer Philippa Long<\/a> launched her own luxury womenswear label last year after two seasons cutting her teeth at Temperley London and an ongoing collaboration with knitwear maestro Derek Lawlor<\/a>. Citing 1920s couturier Madeline Vionnet as the inspiration for her first collection, her uniquely feminine, luxurious aesthetic has since caught the eye of the industry. <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/a> <\/a><\/p>\n You’ve said that your AW12 collection was influenced partly by African wax prints seen at your local market – where else do you hunt for inspiration?<\/strong><\/p>\n My inspiration ranges from people I see waiting at the bus stop, to ceramic sculptures made out of soap I saw at the Saatchi a few weeks ago. <\/p>\n You worked at Temperley after graduating – tell us about your experiences there? <\/strong><\/p>\n Working at Temperley was amazing. I learnt more about the industry in the nine months that I was there than I did in the three years that I was at university. I have definitely adopted the classic femininity of Temperley and the fabrics I use are inspired by what I was working with when I was there. I also really aspire to building a brand as successful and as committed to its British roots as Temperley one day.<\/p>\n What element of designing do you enjoy the most? <\/strong><\/p>\n Shape and structure are probably the most important elements of design for me. I have to say that I enjoy the shape making\/ pattern cutting element of the design process the most. It also really helps me to understand how things are made and really informs my design process later down the line.<\/p>\n <\/a> <\/a><\/p>\n Which other designers are you inspired by?<\/strong><\/p>\n The answer to this question changes all the time but right now I\u2019m very intrigued by Dries Van Noten. He continuously delivers beautiful, well-cut collections that always consist of interesting fabric combinations, texture and colour. You can just tell that every detail has been carefully considered and executed to perfection. <\/p>\n How have you seen your designs evolve as you’ve become more experienced?<\/strong> <\/p>\n When I first started at university I tried to be as innovative and avant-garde as possible – I never really thought about wearability. Since having some exposure in the industry I have now learned to try to incorporate the innovative with the commercially viable. It\u2019s not always easy but when it\u2019s done well, I think it\u2019s a real skill. I\u2019ve also become a lot more experimental with colour and fabric combinations. In my current collection I combine African wax print with Chantilly lace; that would have never happened three years ago! <\/p>\n Who would you love to dress, that you think would embody the spirit and aesthetic of your brand? <\/strong><\/p>\n I would love to dress Chlo\u00eb Sevigny. I just think she\u2019s bloody cool! She does feminine glamour with an edge very well.<\/p>\n <\/a> <\/a><\/p>\n What do you like most about working in the fashion industry, and what frustrates you? <\/strong><\/p>\n I love the pace of the industry. It is constantly moving and changing, and as most designers work better under pressure, it\u2019s a great environment for creativity to thrive. I get frustrated by the lack of ethics in fashion; from interns working for free for months and months to illegal sweat shops. For an industry so big, influential and so necessary I find it hard that so many people who work in fashion are exploited.<\/p>\n Do you have a long-term game plan? Where would you like to be in five years’ time? <\/strong><\/p>\n Long term, I really want to see my brand grow into the international fashion market. I would like to introduce menswear in a couple of years and I really want to open a factory here in the UK. I\u2019m committed to British manufacture and would really like to see the garment and textile industry revived in the UK.<\/p>\n