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Taken from the Summer Issue of Wonderland.

White cotton hoodie by TOPSHOP, perspex jewelled choker by VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

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Alex wears Cream wool jumper and joggers both by GYPSY SPORT

Gypsy Sport’s Rio Uribe says that everything he makes is unisex. It’s a statement that makes sense when you consider the label closed their New York Fashion Week SS16 catwalk with a pregnant model, and their AW16 show with the same woman carrying her newborn. It’s a detail that tells you everything you need to know about the label: in Gypsy Sport’s world, wit is just important as — if not more than— looking good and how you should look isn’t determined by your gender.

One NYFW season down with that ethos cemented already, Gypsy Sport and its synonymous planet symbol has risen astronomically to become one of the most unique young brands in the US. Their galactic logo, which is splashed across “I Heart NY” bric-a-brac on the Gypsy Sport E-commerce store, from condoms to mugs to garish sweatshirts — exhibiting more of the brand’s signature wit — samples the otherworldliness exhibited on the catwalk. Never alien but ignoring convention, the online collection is like looking at the imagined future of 70s films, a vintage view of utopia.

Meanwhile, AW16 saw granny-curtain lace stitched onto basketball tunics, bandeau crops pour homme, some serious metal headgear, Fear and Loathing orange sunnies and an intriguing patchwork pattern. The print was comprised of squares in the skin tones of Rio Uribe’s family and friends, balancing the brand’s flamboyant aesthetic with a heartwarming metaphor, Gypsy Sport have trickled their philosophy down right into the anatomy of their designs. Not content with dissolving gender barriers, Uribe’s next stop is race.

Here in London we’re blessed with more young designers than we know what to do with, New York’s talent pool has sometimes had the tendency to stagnate. Luckily, Gypsy Sport has arrived, kicking, splashing and grinning from ear to ear.

Photographer: Tyler Mitchell

Fashion: Toni-Blaze Ibekwe

Photographer’s assistant: Ilya Bronchtein

Fashion assistant: Jacqueline Moore

Lighting technician: Akaylah Reed

Model: Alex Ordonez @ D1 Models

Words: Lily Walker

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Veronica wears black leather coat, yellow cotton jumper and black leather trousers all by OTTOLINGER

Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient of Berlin-based label Ottolinger are vehemently opposed to labels.“It’s always interesting to hear an opinion and see how people interpret our collection, what they think when they look at it, or how they feel when they wear it, but we don’t want to feed our generation of references,” says Bösch. “If we name anything, we are likely to be far too much associated with them.” Of course, that makes the designers instantly more compelling, and caught the eye of VFiles, who gave them a prized spot at their crowd-sourced AW16 NYFW show.

The duo’s brand of low-tech engineering is all about subverting couture tropes. Raw jersey, denim and lace are stitched together into exaggerated shapes then shredded further. “We like that the pieces never feel finished,” explain the designers. “It’s about mixing what came before us and what we know, because nothing is original,” they’re quick to add. One label they won’t be able to shake for now is “pyrotechnic designers”, having burned holes and raw edges into the collection for their VFiles debut which had judges Virgil Abloh and Harold Koda in awe. “It was pretty radical and could have gone really badly,” they admit. “But we wanted to change the structure of something that’s normally treated very delicately, so it’s an interesting combination.” They don’t rule out making it an Ottolinger motif.

Bösch and Gadient met at industry-favourite Basel School of Design in Switzerland, where three years being disaffected “misfits” with the same sense of humour gave birth to Ottolinger (“the name on our neighbour’s doorbell at our first studio”). They run their current studio out of Berlin purely for economical reasons but insist that today you don’t have to be based in one particular place to run a brand. “The beauty of everything existing online is you don’t have to be tied to one place.” They’ve put on a DIY presentation in London’s ICA and are planning on showing in Paris next. “There really is no plan,” confess the designers, who use each other as creative springboards. “The only thing we live by is — would we wear it ourselves?”

Photographer: Tyler Mitchell

Fashion: Toni-Blaze Ibekwe

Photographer’s assistant: Ilya Bronchtein

Fashion assistant: Jacqueline Moore

Lighting technician: Akaylah Reed

Model: Veronica Gebremariam @ D1

Words: Modesta Dziautaite

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Burgandy cotton jacket and brown cotton shirt both by  SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Dark wash denim jacket with ‘Hysteria’ patch by MARTINE ROSE, White cotton shirt by DSQUARED2

Blue cotton checked shirt by MARTINE ROSE, Black wool trousers and Black trainers by GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI

Black cotton coat by BURBERRY PRORSUM, White cotton logo t-shirt by ASTRID ANDERSEN, Black wax trousers by CASELY HAYFORD, White cotton socks by FALKE, Black velvet tassel slippers by JIMMY CHOO

Dark Brown striped wool coat by SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, White cotton shirt with black writing by DSQUARED2, Green cotton army trousers with patches on knee by MARTINE ROSE

Light blue cotton jacket and trouser by TOPMAN DESIGN, White cotton string vest by BURBERRY PRORSUM

Styling: Toni-Blaze Ibekwe

Photographer: Hype D 

Model: Khalid @ ELITE Model Management

Makeup: Aneesha Sangha

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