Richard Malone

Sylvia Plath’s voice groaned throughout the winding corridors of Malone’s dingily decorated venue at the first of three presentations from Fashion East for LFW. His first show on schedule since his graduation from CSM, saw the designer twist the practical into the statement – with blouses, skirts and dresses in peachy nylons, and simple striped canvas shift dresses drifting into structured waves at the hem. Models were apparently an array of ‘artists to solicitors’, while the collection was inspired by Malone’s growing up in Ireland.

The target of the set up was to explore the permeation of patriarchal structures within working-class family life. Bold aims in an industry which is both so demanding of women, and based heavily upon financial and social elitism. However, it felt like Malone’s show brought questions into the LFW conversation: the space itself felt female-led, while the clothes were practical, wearable, washable visions of unexpected beauty powerfully worn by a much more diverse cast of models than usual. One should question how far a man can truly create a female-led space, as this dynamic is inherently patriarchal… but surely it is better to try.

Caitlin Price

Glam-street-wear was the dish du jour at Caitlin Price. Fascinated with the transformation from day to night when it comes to how women dress, the South London born designer – who worked under Christopher Shannon for three years – showed for the second time at LFW. Baby blue and pink tracksuits in crisp cotton, with a kind of ‘dress shirt’ pleating down the torso, stood next to deep ocean blue gigantic elephant pants, with a clip around skirt which billowed down one leg. Super cute white and blue tennis dresses flipped out at the hip, below super revealing waist cut-outs. Everything was worn with sneakers. This is the kind of collection that actually keeps its promise in actually taking you from day to night.

This Is The Uniform

Jenna Young, the designer at the helm of This is The Uniform, melded teen-girl references, the Wild West and futurism in her debut collection for Fashion East. Blue cotton twill wide leg flares had a sheer stretch knicker attached and pulled up to the waist – these were brilliant; cream chiffon crops were covered in shiny red disks; satin red bandanas hung from the neck and revealing fishing net dresses clung to the body, atop bejewelled nipples – all the while the models played ping pong and munched on Mcdonalds. The garments were super wearable, and perfectly Instagrammable, but the Cola, fries and lollipops dotted around the set felt a little bit tired.

Photographer: Thurstan Redding

Words: Tom Rasmussen

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This Is The Uniform AW15

Celebrating its fifteenth year of vital fashion support, Fashion East are bringing us ever more new names and collections to lust after. Caitlin Price made her debut last season, the South London CSM grad won us over with pink satin tracksuits (imagine the Mean Girls mum if she came from Brixton, perfection) and gelled curls à la FKA Twigs.

Caitlin Price is joined by two new names, Richard Malone and This Is The Uniform. Another CSM grad, Richard Malone’s already bagged himself an LVMH scholarship for his awkward angled shapes, think you can work flares? You’ve not seen anything until you glimpse Malone’s grid-print bell bottoms.

This Is The Uniform by Goldsmith’s girl, Jenna Young, is a name we’ve been watching for a while after we fell for the AW15 video, shot in a quintessentially British caravan park and at your Nana’s house. Romantically customised tracksuits and bandana prints in jewel tones stole the show for the last collection so we can’t wait to see what’s in store for SS16, Young’s Fashion Week debut.

As part of Fashion East, all three designers will have presentations on Saturday 19th September and visit the Paris showrooms as well as receiving funding and industry mentoring.

Richard Malone AW15

Caitlin Price AW15

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Escape to the country with This Is The Uniform AW15. With a campaign video set in a British caravan park, the collection nods to the old and traditional but of course, with a fresh new take on things. Pink tulle frills look alien in the rural retro setting but somehow still tie in with the mossy dull green upholstery, you can smell the mothballs through the screen. Ruby red jewel tone dresses are 90s minimalist, accessorised with a bandana neckerchief (also in silk) for ultimate throwback. Tracksuits are adorned with ribbon details for an injection of cheerleader style Americana and a red quilted bomber jacket is fabricated in silk. Meanwhile boxer shorts (for girls) come in dusky-pink silk, embroidered with “Vicky” at the rear. Tramp-stamp made chic? A must-have detail for AW15.

The campaign and collection both scream small-town teen breaking out of the norm, the storyline of every coming-of-age film ever and we love it. You just know if John Hughes had been a Brit, there would have been a caravan and a DFS three-piece-suite in a feature film somewhere. Go back to family holidays from your youth in wet summer holiday parks and relive the teen angst, wearing This Is The Uniform AW15.

Film: Sharna Osborne.

Photographer: Steve Legere.

MUA: Lois Moorcroft using M.A.C.

Hair: Delphine Bonnet.

With thanks to Bill and Val.

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