Keith Ape on Stage

The South-Korean rapper from Seoul hit the stage midway through the VFiles show, performing the hit single “It G Ma”. Having collaborated with A$AP Ferg, Father, Dumbfoundead, and Waka Flocka Flame, officially breaking through into American hip-hop, Keith Ape was the perfect person to have on stage last night. He champions eccentricity, energy, hyperactivity, and youth culture, all key to the success of the show. Just as he represents new musical talent, the designers who won the chance to showcase their work on this big night represent new fashion talent – a successful demolition of the status quo for one night.

Rainbows, unicorns, and some phallic fashion

One of the four designers of the night really brought fairytale and fashion together. Namilia, one of Wonderland’s one-to-watch, established by Nan Li in partnership with Emilia Pfohl, is driven by the revolutionary spirit of youth culture and a need to establish what the modern girl is in the 21st century. Using clothing as a medium to proclaim rebellion and promote a new understanding of power they speak in a vernacular that the feminist-fuelled individual will easily associate oneself with. Namilia presents statements such as the empowering “my pussy my choice”, imagery of the phallic sort, ruffles, rainbows, and emoticons, and implants itself firmly into our minds as the most memorable collection seen.

Is it an omelette or a duck?

David Ferreira brought bright spells of sunshine to the evening show yesterday. Getting some inspiration from Rihanna’s outfit at the Met Gala earlier this year, David managed to present a collection that played with the meaning of being Couture. The level of craftsmanship astounded and the subtle denouncement of the traditional standards behind formal wear perplexed. It was so different but yes refreshing. Although yes, some furry stilettos might have caused an accident on the catwalk, and yes some outfits might have stretched too far for NYFW, the wide array of outrageously feathery frocks helped the euphoria and all-good-vibes of the evening continue onwards into the night, having showcased a fun and experimental take on the ball-gown.

 Words: Marianna Mukhametzyanova

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All clothing Prada SS15.

Photographer: Daniyel Lowden.

Fashion Editor: Sam Carder.

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“Day one since I’ve started the line it’s been about rolling with the punches. I’m young and so new to the game that I don’t know what to expect a lot of the time”, says American fashion designer Karolyn Pho. Perhaps one of the most alluring qualities of the budding soloist (Karolyn Pho launched her line in 2012) is her adaptability as a designer. Karolyn continues, “You have the highest of hopes of course like anybody does, but there’s so many reality checks that happen every single day where you’re just like, ‘Okay well, that’s not gonna work. Let me find another avenue.’”

Although Karolyn’s minimalist details are her signature, she allows her surroundings – “another avenue” – to be the right amount of influence to inject into her collections. The designer adds, “As soon as you land in a new country where the language itself is not the same, you can’t help but be effected by the environment around you.” Hence, the birth of the vagabond theme of the Karolyn Pho Spring-Summer 2015. The romantic, lightweight frocks are inspired by wanderlust and what Karolyn describes as “the nomadic feel”.

Pho showcased her Fall-Winter 2015 “What Remains” Collection at Capsule New York. Reflecting on her extensive background in costume designing and wardrobe styling, the inflection in Karolyn’s voice still resonates with new girl-esque excitement. “Both of those things affect who I am today, the way that I create clothing, and the fabrications that I choose, and just the story that I’m trying to tell. I think with both of those avenues of work, it really forced me to have a concept and direction towards everything that I do,” she states.

Much like the distinct story of last season’s collection, the direction behind “What Remains” is both fluid and unique. Her approach to “effortless androgyny” comes in the form of skateboard culture, a hint of gnarly Mexican woven textiles, and heaps of tastefully structured outerwear. In reference to her minimalistic sig on the collection, Karolyn says, “It’s something I subconsciously gravitate towards. I like to create beautiful things without being fussy or overly complicated. I think a well-designed product should be elegant without explanation.”

Karolyn cites the thoughts of her first collection as a moment that still gets her giddy. “It was my first opportunity to really, like, do everything on my own as my vision, not tainted by anybody else for the first time in my life. And seeing it through from designing the collection to directing the look book and hiring the talent for the look book, the execution of the layout. All of that was just amazing to me. It was amazing to see for the first time in my life where I stood and all these ideas I had in my head, scribbled in a journal, actually on paper – it’s physical now. You can see it now. It’s tangible. I just felt really empowered. For the first time in my life [I’m] validated by myself which is really rare.”

Karolyn Pho recently presented her FW15 collection at Capsule New York. The collection will also premiere at Tranoi Paris on March 6 – 9, 2015.

Words: Gabrielle Pharms. 

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It’s 2015 but we’re still into boys who look like they listen to The Smiths and head out to The Haçienda on a Friday night. We’re not going to find the latter but we’re hoping if we spot a boy wearing Farah SS15 it will lead us to the former. The 80s sportswear aesthetic is everywhere right now, linked to the bleak and beautiful Manchester scene and Farah have taken their turn to make their mark on it. Don’t be silly and wear these for actual games and matches, boys, they’re supposed to stay crisp and clean and white. Perfect for layering in the typically changeable English summer, grab a short sleeve sweater and high-neck track jacket for guaranteed effortless cool.

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Exploring three new cities, Lisbon, Marseille and city of their homeland Naples, Antony Morato create a glorious and fashionable escapism. Shot in black and white, the fashion films should already have a tick of approval from the artier of you out there, three young men are followed on their trips by photographer Toni Thorimbert and Rome based videographer group, Todos Contentos Y Yo Tambien.

Advertising a way of life rather than a lifestyle or clothing Antony Morato have tapped into something unexplored. Morato have already taken us to London and Barcelona, in all honesty we’d rather each piece came with a plane ticket, but this is the next best (and more realistic) thing.

Created for the cosmopolitan man, Antony Morato SS15 is split into three lines, Black, Silver and Gold with each designed to meet the often demanding requirements of modern men.

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It’s no longer dark when we leave the Wonderland office , so naturally we’ve started to think about the summer. The days are long and the nights are short and the rain disappears, at least for a little while. Louis Vuitton are on our wavelength with their new ‘Spirit of Travel’ campaign. Featuring saturated colours, blue skies and psychedelic prints, it’s the perfect combination as far as we’re concerned. Maybe those pink-heeled boots aren’t the most suitable hiking apparel, but we’ll certainly give it a go. The destination? Any place with sea that matches that blinding shade of blue.

Words: Lily Walker

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Taking us on a geographical, sartorial and spiritual journey, Tourne De Transmission present their new collection for SS15.

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If DVF herself saw you wearing that tracksuit to the airport she’d probably faint. The latest ‘Riviera’ collection from Diane von Furstenberg is for the international woman. On the go, wildly successful (we imagine) and fabulous but still dressed to perfection. There’s no word for casual in the DVF dictionary. “The collection is called ‘Riviera'” says, Furstenberg of her most recent line. “But the campaign is really about this strong and sexy woman. It’s all about this easy glamour that comes from being on thego.”

The campaign shows the monochrome and jewel-coloured collection against a white airport terminal, accompanied by supermodel Daria Werbowy. We might try lounging amongst our luggage next time our flight’s delayed at Heathrow, it looks so chic.

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