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(1) BALMAIN

(2) LUTZ HUELLE

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Images: Amina Nolan

The post PARIS FASHION WEEK: Backstage at Balmain and Lutz Huelle Spring/Summer 2013 appeared first on Wonderland.

House Of Flora Master-1080p for Apple Devices (10 Mbps) from Miss En-Scene on Vimeo.

Designer Flora McLean has produced hats for everyone from Givenchy to Matthew Williamson, but her own true talent comes to fore with her own line of millinery and accessories. In House Of Flora’s new collection, McLean draws inspiration from the Barbie the Architect doll to electricity pylons, all the while injecting zesty Mondrian-style primary colours. It’s the future, but not as we know it.

www.houseofflora.net

Words: Zing Tsjeng

The post HOUSE OF FLORA: Binary Bitch appeared first on Wonderland.

Fabric swatches, original Daks sketches and treasured postcards of 1950s sirens, fixed together by coloured drawing pins -the Daks S/S 13 moodboard could be the scrapbook of a fashion student obsessed with heritage glamour. But while the moodboard might be a romantic tribute to Daks’ past, the collection was all about propelling the brand into the present.

The women in the snapshots are an advertisement for British summertime, wearing clothes designed for sipping lemonade at the country club. So no surprise that Sheila McKain-Ward’s modern Daks woman is just as refined, wearing butter cream and chalky white in weightless fabrics like chiffon, silk and nylon. Witness the first look: a simple white dress and buttermilk single-breasted coat with sloping shoulders, clearly inspired by the images of women in white leaning on tennis rackets.

And inned to the middle of the moodboard? The Daks house check, given a modern twist with a diamond pattern. McKain-Ward was inspired by the abstract expressionist movement – in particular, a Jasper Johns painting of white paint on top of a raw canvas. In her cool, crisp collection, that translated to layered textures and brushstroke prints.

Split in two halves, the show opened with transparent neutrals and closed with black leather – with the Daks signature check featured in the middle of the show, transitioning between the two palettes. The order perhaps signaled that McKain-Ward will continue to push the brand in new directions, but will stay loyal to the traditions that lie at the heart of the iconic brand.

Clever, simple, fluid and effortless – McKain-Ward mastered craftsmanship when working at Halston, Donna Karen and Oscar de la Renta. No wonder she produced a collection that recognised the house’s heritage – but one that lifted it to luxury status and beyond.

Words: Emma Spedding

The post From moodboard to catwalk: Daks S/S 2013 appeared first on Wonderland.

“The pureness of Renaissance paintings,” Pescis said, when asked about the show’s inspirations. “A lot of cherubs and pictures of little cute girls. We wanted the girls to be more pretty, not just crazy.” The LFW veteran (who’d done two shows that day already) was using Fudge Matte Hed Gas to spray wax into the girls’ hair before tonging it into tight curls and stitching the buoffant right along the scalp.

“Every season with Meadham Kirchhoff is a pretty big ordeal with hair and make-up,” he told Wonderland. “We talk one, two months in advance. They bring an idea to me, we let it grow and it’s a really great thing. They would laugh at me if they heard me say that – they’re always like, “I HATE THIS” – but they’re actually really positive and cool.” Check out our backstage images for more positive vibes.

Check out our other backstage posts from LFW:

Day One: Felder Felder, PPQ and KTZ
Day Two: Moschino, Jasper Conran and Kinder Aggugini
Day Three: Philip Treacy – Special Report
Day Three and Four: Christopher Raeburn, J.W. Anderson and Pringle of Scotland
Day Five: Aminika Wilmont, Fashion Fringe and Nasir Mazhar

Words: Zing Tsjeng
Images: Mark Rabadan

The post LONDON FASHION WEEK: Backstage at Meadham Kirchhoff – Special Report appeared first on Wonderland.

MEAT SS13 : 4D FANTASY from Alis Pelleschi on Vimeo.

Heavily influenced by their own enjoyment of fetish clubs, the pair have created a line of rubber wear and latex, all with a knowing wink – and that’s nowhere more obvious than their sophomore collection, 4D FANTASY. “We want MEAT boys and babes to feel super sexy in their own skin, quite literally,” explain the duo.

Scally culture, tribal tattoos, nail extensions and garage all blend together into one sweet latex explosion. We don’t know if it’s wrong or right, but it’s definitely something.

Words: Shane Hawkins

The post MEAT: 4D Fantasy appeared first on Wonderland.

(1) Aminika Wilmont

Images: Aminika Wilmont and Fashion Fringe by Hatnim Lee, Nasir Mazhar by Mark Rabadan

The post London Fashion Week: Backstage at Aminika Wilmont, Fashion Fringe and Nasir Mazhar S/S 2013 appeared first on Wonderland.

(1) Christopher Raeburn

(2) J.W. Anderson

(3) Pringle of Scotland

Check out our other backstage posts from LFW:

Day One: Felder Felder, PPQ and KTZ
Day Two: Moschino, Jasper Conran and Kinder Aggugini
Day Three: Philip Treacy – Special Report
Day Five: Aminika Wilmont, Fashion Fringe and Nasir Mazhar
Day Five: Meadham Kirchhoff – Special Report

Images: Christopher Raeburn, J.W. Anderson and Pringle of Scotland by Hatnim Lee, J.W. Anderson (last three images) by Mark Rabadan

The post London Fashion Week: Backstage at Christopher Raeburn, J.W. Anderson and Pringle of Scotland S/S 2013 appeared first on Wonderland.

Craig Lawrence’s S/S 13 moodboard glows with twisted lights and reflective bubble wrap, black and white images signalling Lawrence has abandoned colour this season. In translation, that meant phosphorescent pieces made from reflective, clear and metallic yarn, served up in the Portico Rooms at Somerset House in front of funhouse mirrors. The London-based designer told Wonderland: “My S/S 2013 collection is inspired by fairy-tales, including the Armenian folk tale of Anaeet and the weaving of secret messages.”

It’s no secret Lawrence uses texture to convey his message. The focus of the collection was on the silhouette, from tiered peekaboo knits to elegant body-skimming gowns to dresses covered with explosive silver hair.

The painting on the moodboard of the woman sat weaving is of Anaeet from Armenian folklore, which tells of a prince who weaves secret messages into brocade to save himself and his princess from an evil priest. Pretty appropriate: Lawrence, who created knitwear for Gareth Pugh for the first six seasons, is a modern day prince of knitwear. The Central Saint Martins graduate unravels tradition and consistently pushes the boundaries of his craft with wild experiments in texture.

But besides obsure Eastern European fairy tales, the real showstopper was in the final moments of the collection when Lawrence’s inspiration from luminous undersea plankton and jellyfish became clear. When the lights went down for the final walk and camera phones flashed furiously, the knit revealed its secret message – combining optic fibres with the signature Kyototex yarn, it reflects light and flash photography. Magic.

View the full collection here. www.craiglawrence.co.uk

Words: Emma Spedding
Images: Mark Rabadan

The post From moodboard to catwalk: Craig Lawrence S/S 2013 appeared first on Wonderland.

It’s been 13 years since Philip Treacy showed in London, and the milliner returned with a bang: Alek Wek busting a few Thriller moves on the catwalk, a fully-robed gospel choir and Lady Gaga in a floor-length veil opening the show by declaring Treacy “the greatest milliner of all time”. (We heard her shrieking “I’m so excited!” the minute she walked backstage – in full floral headdress – and saw the multitudes of hats.)

But let’s not forget the real stars of the show: an all-black catwalk in Michael Jackson’s old costumes that paid tribute to the extravagance of icons like MJ, Alexander McQueen and Isabella Blow.

Snowden Hill, Fudge Global Session stylist, let us in on a few backstage secrets while pinning models’ hair into sleek, slicked-back barnets: “It’s the small details in hair that you can catch in a certain light. With this kind of hair, you’ve got a big hat going on, so it’s about making small heads very beautiful.”

“Grace Jones is a very good friend of Philip’s and it’s paying homage to her, as well. Big hats look great on black women – they’re very strong and they can definitely carry it off. It’s no-holds-barred here, you can do or wear whatever you like in Michael Jackson’s Neverland!” We get the feeling Lady Gaga would agree.

Check out our other backstage posts from LFW:

Day One: Felder Felder, PPQ and KTZ
Day Two: Moschino, Jasper Conran and Kinder Aggugini
Day Three and Four: Christopher Raeburn, J.W. Anderson and Pringle of Scotland
Day Five: Aminika Wilmont, Fashion Fringe and Nasir Mazhar
Day Five: Meadham Kirchhoff – Special Report

Words: Zing Tsjeng
Images: Mark Rabadan

The post London Fashion Week S/S 13: Backstage at Philip Treacy appeared first on Wonderland.

Meanwhile, Jasper Conran injected some down-to-earth style – literally – by sending models barefoot down a carpet of grass and Kinder Aggugini put out its own dainty take on nauticals with Dutch clogs and porcelain-blue print. Check it out below.

(1) Moschino Cheap And Chic

(2) Jasper Conran

(2) Kinder Aggugini

Images: Hatnim Lee

The post London Fashion Week: Backstage at Moschino, Jasper Conran and Kinder Aggugini S/S 13 appeared first on Wonderland.