Yesterday ex-Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquière explored transformation in clothing, with his second showcase for Louis Vuitton. Choosing to host the house of Vuitton’s debut Cruise show in Monaco, Ghesquière harked back to Vuitton’s heritage, presenting his collection in a location where the arts of travel, luxury and escapism reside in perfect equilibrium.

Elaborating on his first collection, Ghesquière’s second installment saw a cacophony of colours, prints, layers and textures infiltrate the catwalk. Bringing his designs to life and still focusing on the intimate ‘wardrobe’ we saw during AW14, it was all in the details this time around. Think embellished motifs, intricately cut-out knee-high heeled shoes, lace under layers, leather lapels and pristine pleats all showcased through a plethora of pastel hues, met by candy-brights, bold black and ox-blood tones.

Whilst the location echoes the arts of travel, luxury and escapism, so did the somewhat Bohemian collection. Yet whilst the clothing was transformational, artisanal and unconventionally put together, it remained associated with every day attire. Stand out looks came in the shape of a tangerine patent leather jacket accompanied by a lime silk embroidered slip with a scalloped hem and a head-to-toe patterned two-piece equipped with leather collar piece and cinched in waist. Another accomplished collection by the master of eclecticism Ghesquière, we can only await his next move.

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When a show counts gross-out film maestro John Waters as one of its source inspirations, you know you’re in for something special. Like Waters, James Long is one of those designers who isn’t afraid of the unusual – if you needed any doubt, just check out his collection of rubberised pleated trousers.

If you’re a knitwear fan like us, you’ll probably be keeping a lust list of LCM jumpers (Richard Nicoll’s aqua pullover, for instance). So all hail the new king of our list: Long’s flamingo appliqué jumper, its Tiki Tiki Lounge ridiculousness kept in check by the muted military green. For those less willing to wear a full-on caricature of drag icon Divine on their chest, there’s the cropped bombers with their densely woven tapestry knit. Like John Waters, it might all be a little too out there for some – but there’s plenty of pickings for the more discerning fan here.

MORE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN COVERAGE
Backstage at MAN: Astrid Anderson, Craig Green and Agi & Sam
Backstage at Richard Nicoll
Backstage at Topman Design
Backstage at Christopher Shannon
Backstage at JW Anderson
Backstage at Jonathan Saunders
Backstage at Shaun Samson

Text: Zing Tsjeng
Images: Hatnim Lee and Mark Rabadan

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After defeating the queue, which rivalled that of a high street-designer collaboration’s first morning, you instantly became aware of the buzzing atmosphere of those hankering for new talent filtered through to their seats. It’s important not to forget that the show has previously exposed the likes of Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders and many other world-renowned designers.

Brookes, Chloe award winner and recipient of the AHRC Bursary, opened the show with a tattered 2012 Olympic headdress, baggy, paint splattered tunics alongside creepers fringed with tassles and archaic looking knitwear.

Menswear designer Green, who first attended Central St. Martins as an aspiring artist, sent the final models to the catwalk clad in tie-dyed cotton tops and slacks. Wooden frames and paper mache shapes were strapped to the models, demonstrating his dark inspiration of cults and sects.

Also worth a mention is womenswear designer Perta Metzger whose extensive use of PVC and futuristic, Balenciaga-esque headwear reminded the audience of the stark potential of these emerging designers.

Words: Millie Cotton

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