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Push it to the Limit

“Freedom of body” was key to Peter Dundas, the new Roberto Cavalli creative-director, this season. And in a sense, Cavalli has always been concerned with freedom: the freedom to push designs into the realm of maximalism, the freedom to throw leopard print around with abandon, and yes, the freedom to dabble in what might occasionally be perceived as bad taste. All three things were represented here, and so they should be.

Roar Baby!

A blazer that appeared to be made from a paisley-type fabric was shown, upon closer inspection, to be a high-impact lion head print – a not so subtle nod to the atmosphere of animalistic-sexuality that so often seems to go hand-in-hand with Cavalli’s clothing and campaigns. Then there was a sleeveless perfecto jacket fabricated in a kind of aggressively-stonewashed pink denim that recalled Cavalli’s famous sandblasted jeans. That other leitmotif, exposed flesh, was also present and correct with a great number of cut-outs and lots of leg on show.

She’s on Fire

Club-wear (sometimes eighties, sometimes early noughties) was probably the best way to describe much of this: leather trousers, tight-dresses, animal print this and that etc. The thing is, where other label’s flirt with the deliberately ‘tasteless’, playing ironically with this or that (a sequin here, a print there), this season at Cavalli was full on Tony Montana’s Scarface mansion: admirably brave, unabashedly money but not, by any stretch of the imagination, subtle.

Words: Benji Walters

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Cavalli has created tour costumes for pop princesses from the Spice Girls to Beyonce and yesterday it was announced that he would be adding Miley Cyrus to his resume.

After an explosive (and maybe a little controversial) year, Miley has found herself an array of fashion fans, from becoming the face of Marc Jacobs to featuring in LOVE, Miley is making her mark on the fashion world. Could the collab with Cavalli just be the start?

In true Miley style its sexy, short, tight and v revealing. One jumpsuit has Miley completely bare except for crystals covering her dignity, think Toxic Britney but loads better.
There’s also a black zebra stripe skintight jumpsuit and an assortment of hot-pants paired with tiny bra tops and matching jackets.
The little illustrations with Mileys head super imposed are a little creepy but its so Miley, now we’re just desperate to get our hands on some tickets!

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MUST-READ DESIGNER INTERVIEW OF THE WEEK

Miuccia Prada talks to T Magazine about the power of ugly, good versus bad taste and why beauty is bourgeois. If there’s ever going to be a leftist feminist revolution in fashion, we vote Miuccia for eternale comandante. [T Magazine]

CHANEL COMES TOP OF THE PINS

Chanel isn’t even on Pinterest, but it’s been ranked as the top luxury fashion brand on the platform. Surprisingly, catwalk looks aren’t that popular – top Chanel pins consist of cosmetics, watches and perfume. Other labels in the top five most pinned? Christian Louboutin, Jimmy Choo, Steve Madden and Marc Jacobs. [Mashable]

OSTENTATIOUS INDUSTRY EVENT OF THE WEEK

Not familiar with the Life Ball, Roberto Cavalli‘s gala auction for AIDS research? It is, bar none, one of the most ludicrous Gatsby-esque extravaganzas on the weird A-list circuit where Carmen Electra intersects with Bill Clinton. This Telegraph interview with the designer is a pretty eye-opening glimpse into how the upper classes party. [Telegraph]

PURR-NICIOUS CAT BURGLAR STRIKES CANNES

A £1.7 million necklace by Swiss jewellers de Girsogono went missing at a Cannes party after thieves snuck past 80 security guards. It follows on from a £656,000 heist of Chopard diamonds originally intended for red carpet celebs. Julie Newmar, is that you? [NY Post]

EVER WONDER WHAT GOES INTO MAKING A HERMÈS SCARF?

This delightful WSJ story outlines the story of the famous printed scarf. Best fashion-geek detail? The fact that prospective designs are all kept in a white locker known as “le frigo” (“the fridge”). Just don’t expect Hermès to come out with a Barbie scarf anytime soon. [WSJ]

Words: Zing Tsjeng

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Dukovic fuses fine art with fashion photography to create abstract, dreamy and compelling images which capture the fashion world from within. He talks to Wonderland about the creative processes behind five of his favourite images from London, Milan and Paris.

1. Nicki Minaj

I photographed Nicki as she was arriving at a show in NY; she’d just entered the room for Prabal Gurung’s show. I actually shot this on the fly; I didn’t have any one-on-one time with her. I love photographing situations where there’s a lot of expression and energy. That’s more important to me than reading her in the first place and taking it from there. I wanted to make it more about making a stunning photograph, showing her in a different way to the plethora of slick images out there.

2. Hands

In school I studied photography and art history. I was always moved by looking at the definition of the light in Caravaggio’s paintings and the sensitivity of Degas. I particularly like this image because of its softness and color palette, which I find very painterly.

This image is of a model resting her hands on her knees while she was getting hair and make up done. I was just amazed with how beautiful and calm her hands were whilst there was so much going on around her: people pulling her hair, scurrying around… Most of the time a good photograph is hiding in the simplest moment. There should always be something in a photograph that gives a sense of a personal moment between you and the subject.

3. Jason Wu Red Lips

I shot this image at the first fashion show I ever photographed. I was on an assignment for New York Magazine photographing the shows in New York, Milan and Paris. For me fashion was a totally unknown world, so I was beyond excited!

I come from a street photography background where I’m trained to see a moment and chase it. This is one of those moments where I saw something and snapped it. I shoot only with film and I try to bring a certain amount of abstraction into my work, which I find very visually appealing. This image is an example of that. You can read what is happening, but the image makes you look at the subject beyond that of just a beauty photograph.

4. Roberto Cavalli

I’m very interested in the sense of rhythm in a photograph. This is a portrait of Roberto Cavalli shot at his show. His skin had a sculptural quality, and black and white film was the perfect match to bring that out. There was this one moment where the light in the room picked up on him in such a way that it looked very cinematic, like a still from a Hitchcock film.

When you shoot film you have a different kind of rhythm: you shoot the 36 frames, and then to change the roll you take a few seconds break and you look at your subject matter with fresh eyes. I think it’s really important to have that kind of rhythm and maintain your focus.

5. Chloé Show

I really do enjoy doing fashion as it’s so visual, but on the other hand that’s the difficult thing about photographing it. There’s so much beauty in front of you, how do you break through that to make it something even more interesting? This Chloé show was the only one lit with available light and it was an opportunity for me to make a new picture of a very typical runway situation.

In my photos you see a lot of blur, a lot of movement and energy – I want to create a certain rhythm in my images. When I edit I always need to carefully look at the pictures and study them to really feel convinced that this picture is doing it for me. You really need to find the images that really speak up.

www.paridukovic.com

Words: Laura Isabella

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1. Natasha Poly vs Jessica Hart

Call in the fashion police! The two top models were with their celeb entourages at Double Seven, an exclusive NYC nightclub, but the night ended in hospital – and Poly’s friend Adam Hock, a former club owner, wound up in handcuffs. Nobody knows how the brawl got started, but Hock claims that he acted out of self-defence after Hart’s friends attacked him. According to bystanders, Hart later flipped off Poly and shouted, “Your husband’s a loser! Fuck you!”

Winner: Natasha. Poly’s kept quiet over the incident – and in our view, that’s keeping it classy.

2. Karl Lagerfeld vs YSL

Possibly the most infamous feud in fashion history, the notorious rivalry between Saint Laurent and Lagerfeld dates back to 1952, when the former clinched the title of the next great couturier at the International Wool Secretariat. It even inspired its own book, The Beautiful Fall – and rumour has it that Lagerfeld even tried to stop its publication.

Winner: Lagerfeld. Even before his death in 2010, Yves had retired from the fashion world – but Karl’s still going strong.

3. Naomi Campbell vs The World

The supermodel’s anger issues are the stuff of legend: back in 2000, she was charged with assaulting her assistant and threatening to push her out of a car. Five years later, Campbell was back in the dock for slapping her new PA. In 2006, she moved on to assaulting housekeepers with her mobile (a jewel-encrusted one, no less) and in 2011, was banned from British Airways for going beserk on two police officers on a flight.

Winner: Naomi. We’re scared of her. Lest we forget her prolonged spat with fellow catwalker, Tyra Banks:

4. Coco Chanel vs Elsa Schiaparelli

Chanel may have inspired her fair share of fawning biopics, but the legendary Frenchwoman was far from a saint. In fact, she took a special dislike to rival designer Elsa Schiaparelli, dismissing her as “that Italian artist who makes clothes”. Not content with insults, Chanel also once “accidentally” set Schiaparelli on fire by pushing her into a candle arrangement.

Winner: Chanel. Schiaparelli’s designs aren’t being revived anytime soon.

5. Tom Ford vs YSL

In 2009, the tatt-happy designer gave an interview to The Advocate where he lifted the lid on his tumultuous relationship with his former boss. “Pierre [Yves’ partner] and Yves were just evil,” Ford says, claiming that the pair would call up the police to shut down his office. “I have letters from Yves Saint Laurent that are so mean you cannot even believe such vitriol is possible.”

Winner: Saint Laurent. Speaking ill of the dead only a year after Yves’ passed away from a brain tumour? Not classy, Tom.

Words: Zing Tsjeng

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