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Warped Textures

Always one for vying away from the norm, Rick Owens mixed together the weird and unusual when it came to his fabric combinations.  The most peculiar of these fabrics was the buckram cloth – traditionally used for bookbinding – but these unusual innovations are what makes Rick Owens so unique. There were hints of pleats and darts, horsehair wrapping around the body, knots of fur placed on shoulders and long, drifting grey, plummy purple and muddy brown feathering flapping like long wings in the breeze.

Transformative Draping

Following on from last season, Rick Owens concentrated on the technicalities of drape and its movement. Long dresses were topped with sideways vests, while a twisted tulle dress flicked and flowed around legs, providing dynamism and incredible volume. It led the garments slightly off-kilter; clothes were twisted and wrapped around in ways that are off-kilter and slightly bizarre, but it’s Rick Owens down to the bone.

Positive Portals

Rick Owen’s SS17 invite was a hint into what was to come from the show, even before a hint of soundtrack (which was Nina Simone) and a glimpse of the garments. The dark yet light whirlpool on the invite was a hint as to the both dark and light qualities in his work, a paradox he explored through the collection and the staging at Palais De Toyko, where he transformed the space into a transporting portal. Backstage, he emphasised his thoughts and inspiration in positivity and joy. He certainly made us happy.

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The shock of Female Strength

Of course the spectacle of walking Karma Sutra/Leigh Bowery-esque positions would make any near-end-of-fashion-month journalist pick up their pen frantically. The moment, during look four, where two women harnessed together emerged from the backstage at the Rick Owens show yesterday was really quite emotionally invigorating. According to the designer, he has been looking at the ways in which women nurture each other recently, and here was the product (for context, it should be remembered that there is a great deal of male privilege in Rick Owens having the platform upon which to explore this, and for me in having the place to publish these words). In a catwalk context this provides a pin which pricks the rhythm of the expected model after model after model cycle of a show – here is the newsworthiness. The interesting tropes of discussion arising in post were centered upon this being a collection for ‘strong women’ however. This as a term is incredibly shortsighted – claiming the two are so ferociously different that when they are teamed it is a shock. The point in fact is that to be female and to exist takes strength: in a society that places the female near the bottom of the patriarchy food chain, it takes a damn sight more strength to be female in this world. The fact that women’s strength come as a shock shows how far we have yet to go in our understanding of the way women experience and navigate the world

Now for the clothes…

Of course, the offering was very Rick. The impossibly difficult to wear silhouettes of the jutted sleeveless crinkle jackets and intestine like curved leather fronted dresses will be adored by his closest followers, and fit perfectly into a beautifully curated rack of blacks and flesh-tones. The loose-flowing chiffon bombers were particularly accessible, as were the off centre shifts, and the long black sleeveless coat – they will be on the buyers’ must have list for sure. But it is Rick’s footwear that always strikes a chord: the gladiator sandals  – with their relentless straps and angular soles are super covetable.

Backstage Photographer: Thurstan Redding

Words: Tom Rasmussen

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Rick Owens threw a massive curveball last fashion week with his African-American Stepping inspired show, the footwear for which was a collaboration between Rick Owens and Adidas which is now available for purchase at Harvey Nichols.

The minimalist, architectural trainers come in leather and nylon mixes in colours of black, white, grey, pearl and bone. The silhouette is instantly recognisable, with exaggerated tongue and heel but only a subtle hint of branding with three perforated stripes along the side.

Prices range from £390 – £475 and are available for men and women at Harvey Nichols.

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FASHION: MORE DIVERSE THAN EVER?

Maybe. Dior booked more non-white models than ever for its couture show, while DSquared has cast only black male models and Asian women for their AW13 campaign. Meanwhile, Malaika Firth (above) is racking up plaudits for being the first black model to front a Prada campaign since Naomi Campbell in 1994. Steps in the right direction, we feel… [The Fashion Spot]

I WOULD LIKE TO ORDER A WINTOUR WITH ALL THE TOPPINGS

Have you ever harboured a fantasy of literally devouring Anna Wintour, Tom Ford or Beyonce? Now you can. An Glasgow-based pizzeria owner by the name of Domenico Crolla has come up with the magic recipe for fashion pizza: dough base + artfully applied tomato sauce celebrity portraits = MAGIC. He calls it pizza couture. We call it delicious.

JOURDAN DUNN’S BOOBS: TOO BIG FOR DIOR

Dunn recently tweeted that she got cut from Dior‘s couture show because she was too busty. “Ahahahahaha I just for cancelled from Dior because of my boobs!” Later she added: “I’m normally told I’m cancelled because I’m ‘coloured’ so being cancelled because off my boobs is a minor.” Speak truth to power, sister! BTW, this is the cup size Dior approves of.

ALEXANDER WANG’S PSYCHIC TOLD HIM TO DO BALENCIAGA

The designer consulted a psychic before he took the top job at Balenciaga (apparently, it was his “destiny”). There’s some previous form here: Wang’s mother visited a fortune-teller while she was pregnant with him and was told the birth would be fortuitous. As Tinie Tempah once wisely said: “It is written in the stars.” [Vogue]

WEREWOLVES CRASH THE RICK OWENS SHOW

Correction: they’re an Estonian rock band. Meet Winny Puhh, who were handpicked by Rick Owens to soundtrack the show and provided one of the OMG tweetworthy events of Paris (other than the streaker at Dolce & Gabbana). They’re old hats at playing while suspended from the ceiling too – it was part of their Eurovision entry. And no, they didn’t get very far in it. [Buzzfeed]

This post is brought to you by everyone’s favourite Italian foodstuff:

Words: Zing Tsjeng (Follow Zing on Twitter @misszing)

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