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Polka Dots and Chiffon Dreams

The collection begins as a seemingly simple (yet alluring) palette of black, navy and whites, which soon transcends into another mood altogether of royal blue with pangs of mustard yellow. These two entities are not worlds apart though, as designer Bill Gaytten continues with the use of luxuriously floating chiffon and a polka dot motif. It doesn’t get tiresome either. Although used in a horde of variables, it is the polka dot on chiffon combo itself, which makes for the most likeable looks this season. Gaytten doesn’t shoebox himself into one formula and it’s proven in his composition; he’s made just as much use of elongated streamlined shapes as he has done with flirty, girly frills. Beyond the staples, we see SS16’s most popular material – lace. It’s dabbled all around John Galliano SS16 – replacing cut out panels, the upper-half of dresses and subtle, understated bust slips that sneak through plunge cuts and transparent tops.

Household Cavalry Helmets

In their own space, Gaytten’s dresses are flattering, tasteful and feminine, but that’s perhaps not how you’d go about describing the collection as a whole. There’s another side to the frills and fringes – the John Galliano aesthetic this season has a darker but playful edge. You only need to look as far as the Household Calvary helmets cropping up on selected models, which any London tourist would recognise from the guards of Buckingham Palace. Perhaps not your usual choice of headgear, but they do tie in to the military/horse-guard jackets and the slick masculine cut trousers which sit on the hip bone.

Since Gaytten took up his residency as the designer of John Galliano (after Galliano himself departed), Gaytten has been known for his take on 60’s fashion which recent years has been thrown into a fully fledged revival. When The Beatle’s classic, ‘Twist and Shout’ fired up over the SS16 catwalk, it would have been anyone’s guess that he was at it again. There are certainly some 60’s references in Gaytten’s design structure, but it is undeniably discreet. Instead, we have a collection that is in line with modern tastes but still plays on some past-proven successes (long live the studded leather biker jacket!)

Words: Hannah Sargeant

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John Galliano shot by Richard Avedon.

Having recently taken the reigns as Creative Director of Margiela this October, almost three years after falling from grace unfavourably at Dior, John Galliano has today announced that he will stage his debut Margiela show in his native, London. Renowned for his boundless creativity and of course controversy, Galliano’s initial appointment to a house that was propelled to fame by ‘fashion’s invisible man’ came as somewhat of a surprise, just like the news Galliano is bypassing Paris.

Having made his first public debut since returning to the industry last week at the British Fashion Awards, to present a Galliano-gowned Anna Wintour with her Outstanding Achievement Award, it is safe to say Galliano is the name currently on many a slick-lined lip.

As broadcast by the Business of Fashion, the ‘Artisinal’ collection is set to be presented ‘around Tea Time’ January 12 2015. If the date rings a bell, it should. Taking place on the very last day of London Collections: Men, Galliano is sure to have ruffled a few feathers with Tom Ford, Paul Smith, Burberry Prorsum and Craig Green (amongst others) all showing the very same day. Logistics aside, if you’re looking for something groundbreaking, Galliano is the man for the job.

@BrookeMcCord.

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John Galliano has been sober for two years and three months now – but he’s only just started to step back into the public eye. The disgraced ex-designer spoke frankly to American presenter Charlie Rose about his demons and attempts to make amends for what he’s done.

It’s an eye-opening look into addiction and how the demands of the industry drove him to drink and drugs. There’s something sad about watching how Galliano’s eyes light up when he starts to talk about his craft and the process of designing – it’s obvious he still adores fashion.

Galliano seems to accept that the industry might not re-embrace him whole-heartedly anytime soon. But at the very least, he seems to have gained a level of peace and self-acceptance that eluded him before.

Here’s what we learnt from the hour-long interview. Above is an excerpt, and you can watch the whole interview at charlierose.com.

1. Galliano just couldn’t say no, which is where the problem began

“In the early days I was incredibly creative and productive – I loved the research trips, I loved the creation and finding technical solutions to creative challenges. I didn’t need alcohol and the pills for that. What changed was, I was afraid to say no – that little word, N.O. – because I thought it showed weakness. And with more and more success, I would just say yes. And keep on taking more work on, which took its toll.”

2. And when he means “more work”, he means a lot more work

“At that moment, I was producing 32 collections a year, between Galliano and Dior. Each collection would comprise of a thousand pieces.”

3. A vicious cycle emerged…

“I thought that was the right way to deal with it. By then I was a slave to alcohol. I would take the valium to stop the shaking so I could do the fittings, and the sleeping pills so I could sleep. My life became unmanageable.”

4. So he knows what Alexander McQueen went through

“I knew Alexander – I knew Lee. I understood. That loneliness, that pain. I mean as addicts we’re in such perfection – we’re setting that bar impossibly high, we don’t understand how we’re doing it and people say, ‘Wow, how are you going to top that?’ And we’re like, ‘Well yeah we’re going to, don’t worry.’ That’s what makes us wake up in the morning. I was very sad [about McQueen’s death].”

5. Galliano’s in a much better place now, though

“I’m so grateful that I am alive – not for what happened, but as a result of what happened, I have been able to spend some time on myself, understand these emotions that I couldn’t express – the difference between emotions and feelings and how I could change that. Before, I would be upset or angry and it would go on for four days or five days. Now I know that I can change that. I wasn’t aware of that before. I was emotionally, spiritually, physically and mentally bankrupt. I didn’t know it, but I had a very big breakdown.”

6. Although he did have a panic attack before he visited Oscar de la Renta’s studio

“I ran to the bathroom, threw myself on my knees and said the Serenity Prayer and I went into the workroom and introduced myself to the tailors, the seamstresses in their white coats – and then it was fine. […] And then this creativity… it just came back when I saw the [model] walk in in partially draped fabric. It was just an amazing feeling that I thought I’d never feel it again.

7. He wants a second chance

“I’m trying to make amends. I have upset many people. I need to reach out them… I hope through my atonement I will be given a second chance.”

8. Moral of the story? Stay sober, kids

“I will be in recovery for the rest of my life. I bear that tattoo on my soul forever – which is a constant reminder of the evil of drink and drugs, both of which you can buy over a counter in Europe.”

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1. SEIZURE-INDUCING COLLABORATION OF THE WEEK

Internet meltdown! H&M has just announced a collection with Isabel Marant, everyone’s favourite purveyor of Parisian chic. “H&M works with the best designers, and this invitation is an exciting honour,” Marant said in a release. “I aim at creating something real–something women want to wear in their everyday lives – with a certain carefree style.” In other words, get out the Gauloises and fire up your mini-scooter for Le Marais; this is going to be the high street collab of the season. It drops 14th November. [Guardian]

2. JOHN GALLIANO’S ROAD TO REDEMPTION, PART 23432155

Another baby step for Galliano. After his first post-scandal interview with Vanity Fair, he’s now landed a TV interview with American presenter Charlie Rose. Apparently, Oscar de la Renta, who’s good friends with Rose, made it all happen. Meanwhile, Cathy Horyn argues that Galliano should be given a second chance – but he’s got to do it on his own. Maybe someone should tell Oscar… [WWD; NYT]

3. ADORABLE INTERNET TIMEWASTER OF THE DAY

Burberry have teamed up with Google to offer Burberry Kisses, which lets users capture and send a kiss to anyone over the internet. Head to kisses.burberry.com on your smartphone, plant a kiss on the screen, and watch as Google technology transforms it into a digital imprint. You can then select a lipstick shade from Burberry’s latest collection before sending it to someone who needs a smooch. Alternatively, you could meet up with them face-to-face and give them a real kiss but ugggggggh, that’s so early 2000s. [kisses.burberry.com]

4. IS DAPHNE GUINNESS THE NEW NICO?

Kinda sounds like she’s trying to be, no? Fashion’s two tone-haired patron saint is dipping her toe into the music world with the release of her single, Fatal Flaw. There’s even a video directed by Nick Knight. It’s all a bit Nico-without-the-German-accent with Velvet Underground guitars. Apparently, Guinness once wanted to train as an operatic soprano, but her then-husband Spyrous Niarchos hated classical music. [Jezebel]

5. CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COMES OUT TOPS

Fashionista has ranked the best 50 fashion schools in the world, and – surprise surprise – Central Saint Martins nabs the number one spot. But other British universities have reason to hold their head high – Royal College of Art came second and Kingston University landed in fourth place, while London College of Fashion, the University of Westminster and Ravensbourne College of Design and Communication were all ranked in the top 20. Close your eyes and don’t think of the tuition fees… [Fashionista]

This post was brought to you by Daphne Guinness, blinking

Words: Zing Tsjeng (Follow Zing on Twitter @misszing)

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Oh, John Galliano. Parsons may have cancelled his class and Raf may be triumphing at Dior, but the designer‘s attempts to come in from the cold continue.

In an interview with Vanity Fair – his first since emerging from rehab – the designer talks candidly about the drink and drug problems that led to his anti-Semitic outburst and subsequent dismissal from Dior in 2011.

“I was going to end up in a mental asylum or six feet under,” Galliano says. “I was so fucking angry and so discontent with myself that I just said the most spiteful thing I could.”

Describing how he got trapped in a vicious cycle of alcohol and sleeping pills to cope with post-Fashion Week comedowns, he says: “Towards the end, it was whatever I could get my hands on… But I never for one second would admit I was an alcoholic. I thought I could control it.”

At the height of his alcoholism, the designer would get so black-out drunk that he’d lose entire days to drinking (“I’d be covered in sores and humiliated”) – and he still can’t remember the events of that night in 2011.

Galliano also recounts a particularly horrific incident where Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH, told him he was going to die if he didn’t do something about his problem. In response, Galliano ripped off his shirt and exclaimed, “Does this look like the body of an alcoholic?”

Two years on, Galliano is clean-living and has attempted to atone for his actions by reaching out to Jewish leaders, ‘reading books on the Holocaust’ and reaching out to members of the fashion community, all with a view towards eventually returning to the industry fold.

Will he succeed? Who knows. Either way – good luck and god speed, John.

[Vanity Fair]

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A few weeks ago, we reported that Parsons was to host John Galliano for a three-day workshop entitled Show Me Emotion. Now it seems that Galliano’s would-be career as a Parsons teacher has been stopped in its tracks.

In an email leaked to Fashionista, Parsons administrators announce that the workshop has now been cancelled. “It was a condition of our agreeing to host Mr. Galliano that we also hold a larger forum, which would include a frank discussion of his career,” the email states. “Ultimately, an agreement could not be reached with Mr. Galliano regarding the details of that forum, and so the program will not move forward.”

It’s a total 360 for the university, which until recently had been committed to hosting the once-disgraced designer despite calls for him to be dropped. In fact, an online petition demanding his removal garnered over 2,000 signatures.

“This is a person who was fired from Dior for his anti-semitic remarks… So why is Parsons The New School for Design hiring him?” the petition asks.

Well, looks like that won’t be happening anytime soon.

Ultimately, we don’t know if Parsons dropped him due to student pressure or if Galliano was personally hostile to a “frank” (read: probably very uncomfortable) discussion of his career so far. But it’s an interesting development in Galliano’s career nevertheless, which has recently seen the designer work quietly behind-the-scenes on Oscar De La Renta’s show.

Do you think Parsons did the right thing? And do you think John Galliano will ever be forgiven for his anti-semitic outburst?

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Students at Parsons The New School for Design in New York will be taught by John Galliano in a special masterclass called SHOW ME EMOTION.

In an email to Parsons students published by Dis magazine, course administrators describe how 20 seniors on the BFA fashion programme will be selected to participate in the three-day workshop, where they will “engage with Galliano in all aspects of the creative process, including the intense pressure of sustainable a role [sic] at the very top of the design world.”

The news follows on from reports of Galliano’s appearance at Central Saint Martins in March, where the ex-Dior designer met with second-year students from the BA in Womenswear Fashion program.

Galliano has kept a mostly low profile since his 2001 anti-Semitic outburst in Paris. He’s since popped up at Oscar de la Renta’s studio, where he quietly worked for a few weeks on the autumn/winter 2013 collection and has been absolved by the Anti-Defamation League for his sins.

The Parsons job marks his first public appointment in the world of fashion – and even if it’s only for a university post, Parsons is still one of the most high-profile fashion schools in the world.

Reactions on Twitter to the appointment have ranged from envy and ecstacy to… the other side of the spectrum, to say the least.

Now I want to go to Parsons and meet the genius #Galliano

— adela cechova (@AdelaMissPink) April 22, 2013

It’s confirmed that Galliano’s teaching at Parsons. Courses will include Anti-Semitism 101 & Intro to doing coke lines off a dress form.

— Emily (@Emmahcodee) April 22, 2013

new yorkers: who’s gonna protest the galliano masterclass at parsons with me

— Hari Nef (@harinef) April 22, 2013

@tawwoods honestly john galliano teaching there is the only reason i have decided to return to parsons

— Daniel Abbott (@theealterboy) April 22, 2013

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1. Alexander Wang: The Right to Share

Like the Empire State Building, Alicia Keys, rats the size of domesticated livestock and sky-scraping stilettos, the 30-year-old has become a New York fixture. But as he’s debuting in Paris as the new creative director of Balenciaga, the Big Apple – not accustomed to sharing signature cocktails or its muses – has had to come to terms with its shared custody of Wang. But not to fear, fair Manhattanites! While Wang may split his time between Paris and New York, Paris (and Balenciaga) will still be getting a much-needed dose of 212 attitude.

2. Justin Timberlake: ‘Suit & Tie’ featuring Jay Z

The essentials questions of NYFW usually include who’s who, who’s wearing what, who’s drunk (we’re kidding- everyone’s drunk), and who’s blasting the hit runway anthem. This year, the song of swag lands on shoulders of the ever-dapper Justin Timberlake. After a six-year absence from the charts, JT brought sexy and sophisticated back with his new single ‘Suit & Tie’. It’s cool, it’s hip, and Tom Ford designed the cover album: a perfect package for runway success.

2. Comeback Kid: Kenneth Cole

The epitome of the Upper East Side fashion, Kenneth Cole used to be as regular a NYFW fixture as fur coats and fairy dust on porcelain bidets. So after his last show in 2006, New York Fashion Week seemed to lose some of its lustre – so all eyes will be on Kenneth Cole when the label reappears at NYFW this year. Calling all WASPS…

4. Cara, Cara, Cara

Last season, we were mesmerized by those deep, dark eyebrows and the wild attitude of Cara Delevingne. The model with the stately brows is the ‘It’ girl of the runway, and along with Karlie Kloss and Jourdan Dunn, is proving that a new supermodel posse is emerging. But while her features are arresting (and those eyebrows unmistakable), what separates the 5’8” model from her statuesque companions is clearly her spritely attitude. Watch out for the eyebrows- they’ll be coming to a catwalk near you.

5. Kate Spade’s 20th Anniversary Smackdown

A milestone is always as exciting as it is nostalgic. As Kate Spade celebrates its 20th anniversary, we’ll be relishing its first years of fashion novelty and exclusivity – but this old dog is brimming with new tricks. In honour of the event, Kate Spade is releasing a book, ‘Kate Spade New York: Things We Love’. Plus, expect a luxurious celebration on February 8th to hail future generations of bag-clutching madness.

6. The Bag of NYFW: Proenza Schouler large white PS13 bag, $2,495

There is always ‘the’ bag. You know, that one bag dangling elusively from the shoulders of daring editors and darling socialites; the bag everyone desires, but few successfully possess. At NYFW, that prized pouch of leather is the Proenza Schouler large white bag. The metallic sheen, those geometrically perfected pockets… Expect to see this one everywhere.

7. John Galliano for Oscar De La Renta?

Oscar De La Renta may have recently invited the fallen gallant to his studio, but as of yet, Galliano’s involvement with the fashion house is unknown. Could he be a part of NYFW? While the answers are not yet clear, Galliano is someone to look out for. Luckily, if he does appear, he’ll be easy to spot.

Words: Elise Marraro

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It’s been a steep learning curve in the fashion world for Bill Gaytten, the Bartlett-trained architect who initially stepped up to helm Dior after Galliano’s infamous anti-semitic outburst. And now, just as the Bartlett-trained architect was settling into his role as creative director of Galliano, John Galliano announces his intention to stage a daring comeback with the help of Oscar de la Renta.

Gaytten may have struggled initially with both Dior and Galliano, but it seems that he’s slowly coming into his own now he’s flying solo with Galliano. In the autumn/winter menswear collection, there were Galliano touches (the tapered carrot trouser, for instance) but on the whole, Gaytten has a much more restrained and less theatrical vision for Galliano. Rich wool and felt dominated, with oversized trilbies lending a slightly more boho touch – apparently inspired by the late artist Joseph Beuys, but not unlike the kind of headgear that Galliano himself would approve of. But as for John returning to reclaim his house? So far, no comment.

Words: Zing Tsjeng
Images: Harry Carr

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