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The Storm Before The Runway Show

It was a madhouse outside of the DKNY show. Skylight Modern was the venue, and once you turned down 27th Street traffic was backed up, street style photographers were running up and down the block snapping pictures of street style stars “peacocking” in cropped pants and Stan Smith Adidas, and the sidewalk in front of the building was chaotic. After a successfully taking the DKNY reins and presenting a well-received Spring 2016 collection folks were excited to see what Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne would show for their first Fall collection since becoming the Creative Directors for the iconic brand.

All Oversized Everything

For Fall 2016 Chow and Osborne were inspired by 90s girl bands and they wanted to continue to expand on what they showed for Spring but make it more whimsical. If playful meant oversized then, the duo hit the nail right on the head. Deconstructed menswear shirts, baggy pants, long satin bomber coats and denim tees all came in large proportions. Basic slip dresses underwent makeovers with thick red lacing that tied around from the front to the back of the garment. A nylon puffer scarf was an exceptionally neat piece that paired up with a matching anorak and track sweatpants. The funky scarf was easily a highlight and outshined the rest of the accessories, especially from an editorial standpoint. A scuba jersey shirt here and a well-tailored blazer there that were normal sized, but those didn’t impress as much as the other looks seen — bigger is truly always better I guess.

Bright future ahead

For the finale, all of the models walked the runway in limited edition DKNY sweatshirts that read “Don’t Knock New York” and “Designers Know Nothing Yet.” It’s apparent that the Public School boys are getting the hang of designing for two labels and from the looks of this DKNY offering they can count on keeping this gig for a little while longer.

Words: Nigel Isaiah

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Back in April last year, it was announced that the duo behind NY brand, Public School, would be taking the helm at DKNY as creative directors. For their first campaign in their newfound position, the boys have done good. For SS16, Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow enlisted the help of photographer Lachlan Bailey to capture Adrienne Juliger as the new DKNY Woman.

An entirely pared back campaign with simple clothes, a beautifully natural star and a fresh new logo, DKNY are back.

Photographer: Lachlan Bailey 

Stylist: Tony Irvine

Model: Adrienne Juliger

Hair: Rudi Lewis

Make-up: Mark Carrasquillo

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Colour-block revival

Whoever said colour-blocking was dead must not have seen DKNY’s AW15 collection. Royal blue and fire-engine red stood out against urban neutrals like black and navy blue, while a bejeweled motif made a repeat appearance, with turquoise and coral stones embroidered onto Cubist-reminiscent shapes, and a kind of undone collar piece suspended sparkling over several dress shirts.

Details

The silhouettes were quintessential city girl – a few night-out numbers, but mostly on-the-go separates: oversized blazers for work, sporty sweaters for play, and a standout white cowl-neck sweater dress perfect for everything in-between. Twiggy-approved contoured eyeliner offered us a 60s beauty moment, also reflected in accessories – think bright Mary-Jane platform heels. A modern take on a mod classic.

Crowd theory

We’d be remiss not the mention the LED screen in the background, where the unanswerable question was posed, “What is New York?.  In keeping with the spirit of DKNY’s recent campaigns – with unconventional models crowd-sourced via social media – floating Twitter-fueled responses glowed on he black screen: democratic, modern, cool, and very DKNY.

Words: Seymour Glass.

Photography: Phoebe Cheong.

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Featuring everything from brightly coloured beanie hats to scuba-esque jumpsuits the collection is sure to be a hit amongst her many many fans and followers, who can style and layer the pieces however they see fit, embracing the individuality which Cara so perfectly embodies and which DKNY as a brand, celebrates.

“I first started to work with DKNY almost 2 years ago. They always encouraged my design input, my personal style and my ideas from the very beginning of our working relationship,” says Cara of the collaboration. “Our creative synergy only grew with time and before you knew it we were exchanging ideas for a jumpsuit. It was an organic process and it made sense. DKNY is urban and edgy but most of all, it’s individual! They truly embrace the weirdness in all of us, so you can really be yourself.”

Take a look at the stunning campaign images below, featuring Cara and some fantastically hip New Yorkers, as well as some behind-the-scenes shots of the campaign in action. It only makes us even more desperate to get our hands on the collection, dropping October 15^th in DKNY stores, at DNKY.com and at Net-a-Porter.

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Transforming One Embankment into the iconic New York cityscape, LC:M saw DKNY’s live presentation showcasing menswear SS15. Whilst the New York cityscape imagery acted as a backdrop to the dramatic wooden catwalk, the models dressed for the presentation showcased an alternative collaboration of faces with both character and style. Including Rafferty Law and model and circus artist Ash Stymest, this seasons clan of DKNY models was fierce with attitude and a fair share of tattoos.

Whilst the digital screen broadcast bespoke DKNY footage, personifying New Yorkers who live on the move with style, the collection portrayed a mans wardrobe infused with endless versatility. Think monochrome colour ways peppered with accents of rich blue and city gold, geometric driven patterns, motion inspired prints and high-tech textured cottons.

The iconic baseball shirt was worn both solo and under a jacket whilst a modern textured black blazer proved a staple for day to night dressing. Making a surprise appearance in the show wearing an androgynous SS15 menswear runway look, and showing off her dark punky cropped hair, we saw London model Eliza Cummings. Blurring the fashion gender barrier, it’s safe to say that DKNY SS15 appeals to everyone.

Photography: Amy Beasley

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Other than that brief season Skrillex was a G-Star spokesperson (yep, it happened), fashion has never exactly been au fait with dubstep. But given the rising popularity of the genre in the States, it makes sense that DKNY’s chosen to soundtrack its latest ad with a particularly abrasive EDM track. (Plus, the face of DKNY, a certain party-hardy Cara Delevingne, has most definitely been to an illegal rave or two in her time.)

The Mikael Jansson-directed ad follows Delevingne as she leaps onto cars, pulls pretzels apart and raves it up in the city alongside model Ollie Edwards and New York-based artist Curtis Kulig, who can be seen tagging the city with a custom DKNY signature.

Liked this? Watch other AW13 campaign videos here.

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