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The Good Stuff

You just get the sense that Christopher Raeburn is good person. It’s probably because the main tact of his whole brand is sustainability, and season upon season the designer sticks to his guns. Each collection uses the principle of reusing and remaking — continuing his foraging for military fabrics: waterproof coverings, camo fabrics and rubber suiting all go into the fabrication of his outerwear. Inspired by Mongolia — apparently one of the last truly wild places on earth — outfits claim to look at rich texture in the same way garments worn by traditional Nomadic Herders do. There are big, fluffy knits with matching scarves in maroons and rusty oranges, with furry-panelled backpacks and coarsely woven jeans for Winter. Raeburn’s mantra is evidently wearability — and he manages to incorporate global inspirations without crossing into the dreaded appropriation game.

A Coat Affair

The highlight of the offering was for sure the coats. Icy grey bombers had plasticy, thick lines in khaki printed horizontally upon them; parkas and anoraks were lovely too, but it was the final true show pieces — made from shredded snow-camouflage ponchos — which were sewn edge-ways onto a parka, forming a massive ruffle-gasm that stole the show. They were rather a bolt from the blue indeed, in a collection of otherwise muted, down played pieces. A bit of camp never hurt anyone.

Same same but different

The only slight gripe is that it all feels rather the same. Perhaps Raeburn’s MO is to be trendless — and this is a much better thing for the consumer — but there’s a difference between trendlessness and the same when most of the offering felt like seasons before, which often feel like seasons before. So it’s a mixed bag: there’s definitely a load of room for change, but that which was different was beautiful.

Photographer: Thurstan Redding

Words: Tom Rasmussen

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Castaway

Sand-tousled boys jostled about the Old Sorting Office this afternoon at Christopher Ræburn’s ‘Borneo’ inspired show. Finding its feet in the biography of Tom Harrisson – the problematic anthropologist – the men’s week favourite knitted abstract representations of Bornean maps – in reds, whites and blacks – into sweaters and tracksuits. Swinging Orangutang silhouettes adorned khaki and blue sweaters, while tarpaulin backpacks in the shape of the indigenous Bornean monkey were slung over the shoulders – upon whose sale a percentage of the profit will be donated to the Orangutang Foundation. On entering to a rather ‘tribal’ soundtrack, it was with great relief that the show itself eschewed any form of cultural appropriation – avoiding the use of jungle or tribal themes unlike so many designers in the past.

Reclaimed

Ræburn’s penchant for the ‘Remade’ took form in almost all of the collection. Backpacks, trousers, tees and bombers were woven from thick camo-mesh and parachuting in blacks and blues. Khaki or camel tarpaulin hung from the hip like slit kilts over trousers initially, eventually segueing seamlessly into knee length draped skirts. Upperwear and backpacks were fabricated from woven cork – from panels to whole pieces – and one could really feel the designer’s wish to focus on something more natural here.

Explorer Realness

The oversized waterproof combats, mesh duffle coats with reworked camo panels, and pinky-cream tartan ponchos combined to give a fashion twist to practical, workable, ‘safari-wear’. Think Dad from The Wild Thornberrys gets a fashion update – in a good way. The concept was realised through so many different lenses, all while staying on beat with the true Ræburn aesthetic of wearable, sustainable and forward thinking.

Words: Tom Rasmussen.

Photographer: Anabel Navarro.

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What?

This season it was survival of the fittest at Christopher Raeburn. All aboard the RAFT.

Who?

Christopher Raeburn’s men were dressed in knitted jumpers (denim shirt collars peeping beneath), primary coloured outerwear lined with full-bodied fur, surivival bags that morphed into bomber jackets, earth toned printed one pieces and blow up gillets and jackets. That’s right, blow up. There were backpacks, too. Could it be time to dig out that clear fluro pink number from the attic?

Where?

So we may have been back in The Sorting Office, but with stuffed sharks as accessories, atmospheric water soundscapes, digital prints that mirrored the bark of a tree and survival bags re-imagined as outerwear, we were taken to a place with weather far more extreme than London.

Want?

The quilted head to toe denim look, complete with mittens. Verging on ski wear, it’s a three step guide to winter success.

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Sleeveless blazer by Alexander McQueen, top by M Missoni

From left to right: Sofia: Inner shirt by Levi’s Red Tab, purple dress by Sandro, white dress by Charlie May, shoes by Peter Jensen. Klaudyna: Inner white top by MM6, pink top by Bimba & Lola, skirt by Marni. Madi: Jacket by Dsquared2, trousers by Charlie May. Inga: Shirt by Cacharel, dress by Amen, top by Zeynep Tosun, shoes by Robert Clergerie.

Top by Nike, skirt by Danielle Romaril, socks shoes by Chanel

Left to right: Sofia: Dress by Viktor & Rolf, top by beyond Retro, shoes by Neil Barrett, socks stylists own. Klaudyna: Trousers and jacket by Givenchy, top by Beyond Retro, shoes by Alexander McQueen. Inga: Sleeveless blazer by Alexander McQueen, top by M Missoni, stripe Thigh-High socks by American Apparel, shoes by Marni. Madi: Longsleeve tshirt by Nike, top by Babajaon, skirt and shoes by Marni

Top by Beyond Retro, dress by Viktor & Rolf

From left to right: Inga:Inner top by Viktor & Rolf, top by Chanel. Madi:Top by Nike, skirt by Danielle Romeril. Klaudyna:Jacket by Marni, tshirt by Toast, undies by Francesca Marotta, socks shoes by Chanel. Sofia:Inner top by Nike, top by Vionnet, skirt by Sandro, shoes by & Other Stories

Jacket by Marni, tshirt by Toast, undies by Francesca Marotta

From right to left: Madi: Shirt by Halston Heritage, dress by Monki. Sofia: dress by Christopher Ræburn, jacket by & Other Stories. Inga: Longsleeve tshirt by UNIQLO, top by Calvin Klein jeans, skirt by Beyond Retro. Klaudyna: Top by MM6, trousers by Charles Anastase.

All images shot on Leica S System

Photographer: Henry Gorse

Stylist: Patricia Villirillo

Hair: April Taylor

Make up:Sylvia Makowski

Retoucher: Éamonn Patrick Frighill

Photography Assistants:Giorgio Lattanzi, Jamie Phelps, Naomi Blair Gould

Stylist Assistants: Roberta Pinna, Fabiola Murueta Aldrete, Viola Galassi

Hair Assistant: Jess de Voeght

MUA Assistant: Sasha O’Neill

Iguana Handler: Trevor

Models: Klaudyna (IMG), Inga (Storm), Sofia (Models1), Madi (Premier)

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(1) Christopher Raeburn

(2) J.W. Anderson

(3) Pringle of Scotland

Check out our other backstage posts from LFW:

Day One: Felder Felder, PPQ and KTZ
Day Two: Moschino, Jasper Conran and Kinder Aggugini
Day Three: Philip Treacy – Special Report
Day Five: Aminika Wilmont, Fashion Fringe and Nasir Mazhar
Day Five: Meadham Kirchhoff – Special Report

Images: Christopher Raeburn, J.W. Anderson and Pringle of Scotland by Hatnim Lee, J.W. Anderson (last three images) by Mark Rabadan

The post London Fashion Week: Backstage at Christopher Raeburn, J.W. Anderson and Pringle of Scotland S/S 2013 appeared first on Wonderland.

Images: Hatnim Lee

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