Do you have a particular philosophy behind Mandarin & General?

Culture is only alive when it is being practiced, and can only survive if it continues to evolve in our lives.

What is it about Mandarin-dress making that made you want to use it as the foundation of your collections?

I’m specifically interested in traditional Chinese garment construction, before Western tailoring techniques were introduced. It’s a lot like folding an origami with fabric. The simplicity of this type of structure has its shortcomings, but has a lot of personality. I’m very curious about how the construction can be applied to other type of garments we are familiar with.

What process do you go through to rediscover the traditional Chinese garments?

I treat traditional Chinese clothes not as costumes but as a type of garment – like how I would treat a button down shirt or jacket. I work on its structural framework with consideration of today’s function and aesthetic.

How did you manage to become an apprentice for a famous Qipao (traditional Chinese dress) master?

Both masters (two of them worked together all their life) care deeply about the heritage of Qipao technique and tradition. I convinced them that although my goal is not to be a traditional Qipao tailor, I had conviction in preserving the heritage in a different way, a way that can possibly shed new light on traditional techniques. They decided to take a chance on me, and at the end, they were impressed by my learning curve. We built such a strong bond that I still visit them every time I go to Taipei.

So are our cultural traditions are something that we should hold on to?
I think it is individual’s choice to hold on to cultural tradition or not. Civilization is built on history and advances from past experiences. I find it benefiting to learn, rediscover, and reinvestigate cultural traditions.

Do you have a particular type of woman in mind when designing your collections?

I admire the young female intellects from early Republic China such as Phyllis Lin and Eileen Chang. Phyllis Lin is the first Chinese female architect, architectural historian, poet, and was one of the most beautiful women in China at the time. Eileen Chang is a talented and free spirited writer who’s was not afraid of being challenging the status quo. Today, my customers are women in their 20s and 30s who are confident, have a great sense of style, and acquired taste in culture – any type of culture.

Do you think that the modern Chinese consumer has inspired a new wave of creativity in China and Taiwan?

The rise of the Chinese consumer certainly inspired and encouraged new waves of creativity because new demands were created. I use my Chinese heritage as foundation, and incorporate everything I find interesting or important as inspiration. For example, my current Fall collection contrasts Victorian and Cubist visual structures. My new Spring 2013 collection was inspired by my concern about the impact of nuclear energy.

www.mandarinandgeneral.com

Words: Christabel Reed

The post Mandarin & General: Peggy Tan and the art of Qipao appeared first on Wonderland.

Can you give an introduction to Phantasmagoria?

It’s an imaginary cinema of nudity and voyeurism, sexuality and costume, danger and play. My black and white photography is inspired by sequential nature of cinema, particularly the luminous black and white films of the silent era. My work traces a narrative of imagination and desire.

How do you create the optical trickery and illusions in your photographs?

Although I am fascinated by digital arts, I strongly believe in the immortality of film, the real essence of photography and I always expect the picture to be perfect at the first attempt. Photography is a mystery and every mystery should remain unveiled.

What inspires you to take such surreal and dreamy photographs?

The gallery of inspirers is endless. From Paintings by Ernst, Dali, Otto Dix, Schiele, Manet etc, to Film. Bunuel’s work inspired me throughout the years. The first films I saw of his encouraged me to follow further the Surrealism path: Cocteau, Jodorowsky, Bergman, Fellini, Fritz Lang, etc. They all inspire me for different reasons. Some for the characters they create, their surrealism, the elaborate sets – but they all lead me to an imaginary world of cinema.

Has your childhood in Rome shaped your artistic vision?

I spent a lot of time on the dreamy seaside of Ostia where big filmmakers like Frederico Fellini and Paolo Pasolini worked.

Why did you leave Italy for London?

When I left I travelled and ended up in London by chance, but also because I was thrilled by Bill Brandt’s foggy, dark and mysterious black and white photographs.

What do you like or dislike about London?

Despite the ultra-modernism of the city, I still have the nostalgia of “Old Britain”, which is present in my work. I also find London cosmopolitan and architecturally diverse. Its dynamic, avant-garde style is perfectly combined with the influx of multi-foreign cultures; in these I find characters and interesting locations to experiment with.

You turned your photo book Circumstances into a film. How does film offer you a different creative outlet?

I always thought that my pictures were extensions of films. Circumstances was first a book and then with my closest collaborator Alberto Bona we thought to collect part of Circumstances book’s photographic stills, mixing them with my other images, creating a unique short film called Circumstances. The film won awards at the Portobello Film Festival and at the Open Cinema Film Festival in St. Petersburg.

If you had an infinite budget, what would be your dream shoot?

A feature film. I would hire Buckingham Palace for a photographic project and I would get the royals involved.

What is it about the female form that makes it appear in so much of your work?

Gaston Bachelard says in his essay of Phenomenology of Roundness: “images of full roundness help us to collect ourselves.” The curvaceous presence and grace of nudes in my work are always in function and in harmony with the geometry of the scenes I create.

What are you most proud of out of your work?

I am proud of all my work as I always stayed true to my photography. Recently my artwork became part of the permanent collection of the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts in USA.

Do you have any other projects your working on at the moment?

Every mystery should remain unveiled.

www.proud.co.uk
Phantasmagoria: Photographs by Marco Sanges, runs at Proud Camden, 26th July – 30th September 2012

Words: Christabel Reed

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THE BEST:

(1) Angelina Jolie

Ange, we forgive you for stealing Brad. Goodwill Ambassador for the United Nations High Commission for Refugees, campaigning to ban landmines – was Jen ever this saintly?

(2) Kevin Costner

This Robin Hood threw £13.5 million of his own money at solving the oil spill crisis in Mexico, funding scientists to create filtering machines that could separate the oil from the water.

(3) Oprah

The talkshow queen built the Oprah Winfrey Leadership Academy for Girls outside of Johannesburg, aimed at educating poor South Africans. It even has its own yoga studio. Never let it be said Oprah doesn’t believe in spoiling the kids.

WORST:

(1) Tom Cruise

This Scientologist shows us just how the worshipped worship: by spending huge amounts of money, rubbing it in the public’s face and expecting to be told how great he is for doing it.

(2) Bono

Dear Bono: leave the preaching to the Archbishop of Canterbury. And for god’s sake, next time choose a better opening hymn.

(3) Jamie Oliver

Back in 2010, the cheery celebu-chef was moved to tears over America’s most obese city resisting his onslaught of healthy food. If ‘crying over fat people’ was an Olympic category, Jamie Oliver would win gold, silver and bronze.

Words: Christabel Reed

The post BEST AND WORST… celebrity attempts to save the world appeared first on Wonderland.

THE BEST:

(1) Tora Woloshin: I Want You Back, X Factor USA 2011

Tora’s electrifying rendition of Jackson 5’s ‘I Want You Back’ excited the audience and judges and added a little edge to the typically characterless X Factor USA.

(2) Alexandra Burke: Candyman, X Factor 2008

Alexandra Burke emerged as a genuine pop powerhouse with this performance thanks to her voice – and that £900 McQueen nautical dress.

(3) Bianca Ryan: And I Am Telling You I’m Not Going, America’s Got Talent (2006)

This 11 year old shocked everyone with her incredible voice – watch Brandy stand up in disbelief, cross her arms and then shake her head in amazement.

THE WORST:

(1) Ablisa’s audition, X Factor 2010

If Vikki Pollard and her twin sister made their debut on X Factor, this would be it. Their nasty attitude meant that they were booed before they even opened their mouths – nice going, girls.

Geo Godly’s audition, X Factor 2011

Geo Godly’s hilarious/disturbing strip tease during his audition caused Paula Abdul to throw up – which might be a slight overreaction on her part. But hey, it makes for great TV!

Xander Alexander’s audition, X Factor 2011

The deluded “bitchy nasty diva”, Xander Alexander, faces off with Simon Cowell – but not before getting the judge’s name wrong.

Words: Christabel Reed

The post BEST AND WORST… reality TV performances appeared first on Wonderland.

(1) “Something From Nothing: The Art of Rap.”

Ice-T interviews some of rap’s most respected and distinguished playas: Mos Def, Dr Dre, Eminem, Nas and Q-Tip discuss hip-hop’s rise to worldwide prominence.

(2) “Beats, Rhymes & Life: The Travels of a Tribe Called Quest”.

Directed by Michael Rapaport, this documentary spotlights one of the most innovative and influential rap bands in hip-hop history.

(3) “Rhyme and Reason”

This documentary examines the genre’s evolution since its inception – Busta Rhymes, Method Man, Biggie and Tupac all chip in.

(4) “Scratch”

Scratch investigates the beginnings of hip-hop DJs, turntabilism and scratching.

(5) “Rock the Bells”

Rock the Bells follows the exciting preparation and fulfillment of Wu-Tang Clan’s final live performance.

(6) “Dave Chappelle’s Bloc Party”

The documentary, dedicated to J Dilla, follows the production and achievement of Dave Chapelle’s free festival “Block Party” in Brooklyn, that hosted performances from the likes of Mos Def, the reunited Fugees, the Roots and Kayne West.

(7) “Style Wars”

One of the first documentaries on hip-hop, “Style Wars” is a must-see for serious rap fans. It focuses on the form’s various cultural components, including b-boying, graffiti and tagging.

Words: Christabel Reed

The post SEVEN WONDERS… hip-hop documentaries appeared first on Wonderland.