Agi & Sam Archives | Wonderland

AGI & SAM × The Woolmark Company – “The Modern Husband”

Wonderland Staff — Wed, 20 Jul 2016 10:43:42 +0000

AGI & SAM teamed up with The Woolmark Company and Dormeuil to make a short film questioning the idea of “The Modern Husband”.

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LCM: Agi & Sam SS17

Wonderland Staff — Sun, 12 Jun 2016 12:04:02 +0000

Only Agi and Sam could turn cows and Marigolds romantic.

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LCM: Agi & Sam AW16

Wonderland Staff — Sun, 10 Jan 2016 13:30:17 +0000

It’s all in the details on the boys at Agi & Sam- and the girls!

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Walk The Line

Wonderland Staff — Tue, 13 Oct 2015 09:40:07 +0000

We trace the 10-year history of one of London menswear’s most nurturing and on-point initiatives; Lulu Kennedy’s MAN.

From the 10th Birthday Issue of Wonderland.

Martine Rose

Lulu Kennedy is a force to be reckoned with. The founder of both the Fashion East and MAN initiatives, Kennedy has been championing emerging British designers for over 15 years, carving a path that prides independence within the fashion landscape. Bringing the underground to the forefront of the industry and celebrating the youths shaping the future, Fashion East has seen Kennedy pioneer the likes of Marques’Almeida, Martine Rose, Gareth Pugh, Roksanda Ilincic and Louise Gray. This year Fashion East’s younger male counterpart MAN turns 10 and Kim Jones,
J W Anderson, Astrid Andersen, Christopher Shannon, Benjamin Kirchhoff and New Power Studio amongst others, can all count themselves part of Kennedy’s fast-expanding MAN gang.

Born in Newcastle and raised in Devon, Kennedy spent her youth working at art galleries and organising raves (a few years were spent living in Naples doing just that), before landing a job at the Old Truman Brewery straight out of college in 1996. “I basically ran wild as a kid and as a teenager, so I was never going to be much use at a ‘normal’ job,” quips Kennedy. “Being surrounded by creative people kind of puts you in an alternative mindset too. My heroes were usually people in my family or close friends rather than distant celebrities, which gave me the feeling that anything is possible.” Kennedy is right. Tasked with turning the then derelict 11-acre warehouse into a creative hub for east London’s designers, artists, photographers and all-round visionaries, rather than spending her time overseeing extensive restorations, Kennedy was loaning runway space to emerging designers and renting out cheap studio space to friends in similar industries. “I suppose in a way you could say my ‘career’ – I feel funny saying that word – started at the Bricklayers Arms, when I met Hazel and Pablo of House of Jazz,” recalls Kennedy. “They were the first designers I’d ever known, and became a massive inspiration to me.” It was shortly after that that Kennedy turned her show-space favours into the Fashion East platform, and luckily the owner of The Truman Brewery hopped on board to bankroll it.“I jumped in headfirst – quite unaware of the politics of the industry – with a desire to help look after designers, and the rest kind of looked after itself,” says Kennedy. “I’m very lucky I’ve ended up in fashion. I love what I do.”

Having already paved the way with Fashion East, which was becoming a mainstay on the London womenswear circuit, it was at a CSM MA show that Kennedy had a revelation. “The menswear students were so strong,” she recalls. “I was like, ‘Why aren’t we doing anything with these designers?’ They’re all going off to get jobs, which is great on one hand, but also a shame.” Realising that the talented designers in question needed a support system in order to reach their full potential, Kennedy approached Topman with a plan. “We were on the same page and they jumped at the idea when I went to talk to them,” says Kennedy. “We just clicked right away.”

At the time, Kennedy was inspired by the work of Kim Jones and Christoffer Lundman. Back then, Jones was sending silver-haired boys down an industrial metal runway wearing oversized trousers, strung in at the waist, teamed with deconstructed sweatshirts said to be inspired by “Russian Prisoners”, with what Tim Blanks referred to as “the energy of an 80s Body Map show”. Meanwhile, Lundman’s boys were clad in powder-blue denim co-ords and rich velvet garms with platform brogues. “They’re the main reason I got so into menswear, they’re really very excellent designers,” says Kennedy. “I also loved what Raf Simons and [Martin] Margiela were doing, but that was about all I knew or followed.” Openly admitting that her knowledge of menswear was “basically zero”, it was by attending college shows, speaking to lecturers or friends and generally scouring the London fashion scene, that Kennedy was able to scout out her cream of the crop – those with “intelligence, creativity, spirit, energy, humour”.

With the help of Topman, the debut MAN show held at the Atlantis Gallery next to The Truman Brewery in September 2005 featured Jones (who screened a fashion film by Will Davidson), Lundman and Topman Design (who showed under the umbrella for the first five seasons). “Everyone we wanted was there, it was buzzing, the reviews were good. I seem to remember it being quite boozy…” laughs Kennedy. “I had such an amazing sense of happiness that it went down so well.” The list of designers Kennedy has nurtured currently ranks at over 40. They’re more interested in pioneering their own label, she says, than getting a job. “My biggest fear [if it wasn’t for MAN] would have been being forced down a more commercial route in order to survive,” explains Astrid Andersen, one of Kennedy’s crop. “The opportunity to grow slowly allows you to truly build a brand, that’s otherwise very difficult and costly.”

Looking back on the decade, we really have seen it all. Remember the time New Power Studio sent models down the runway on a mobility scooter, wearing full-size bass drums as headwear and
a real life child – Roman – in favour of a backpack? “I think that was my highlight, just for sheer exposure,” says NPS’s Thom Murphy. “We had half a page in The Sun, and illustration of us
in Private Eye, and all the other usual cool mags. It was a special moment – totally terrifying as it could have all gone wrong, but we made it.” Meanwhile, we’ve witnessed Cassette Playa’s Carri Munden dance down the aisle hand-in-hand with Sonic the Hedgehog (kitted out in custom CP); Astrid Andersen lead a gang of gold-lipped-guys down the catwalk in velveteen tracksuits; and Agyness Deyn steal the show draped in Henry Holland’s studded leathers. The venues have spanned from the Old Truman Brewery and Holborn’s Old Sorting Office, to Topshop’s disused Eurostar station and everywhere between. Then when it comes to the after-parties, suitably wild affairs have seen Kennedy herself play barmaid and designers switch to DJs at Bethnal Green Working Men’s Club (whilst the real DJ was spotted serving himself generous helpings behind the bar). Elsewhere, as Kennedy blogged on her namesake site back in 2009, Katie Hillier whipped her heels off “leading the troops into full on dancefloor combat” at east London’s Bistrotheque.

The most recent showcase – June’s MAN Turns 10 anniversary event – saw Royal College of Art graduate Liam Hodges and Central Saint Martins-educated designer Rory Parnell-Mooney present their SS16 collections at Topman Design’s space during London Collections: Men. Having only been on the fashion week circuit as a standalone event – separate to women’s fashion week – since June 2012, it’s safe to say fashion’s fairy godmother Kennedy was the catalyst. Now she’s leading the way not just in London, but on a global stage, with New York hosting their first stand-alone men’s fashion week this summer. Kennedy is quick to shrug it off when I ask, “Did you ever expect to have such an influence?” “Nope,” she says. “I just feel my way through things; it felt right to start menswear, so that’s what I did, without overthinking it.” For Kennedy, acting on instinct has sure payed off. “It seems like the whole world is into supporting emerging talent all of a sudden.” She’s right, and why wouldn’t it be? The future is shaped from the bottom up. The rest of the world just isn’t able to kill it at Kennedy’s pace, that’s all.

“I don’t know where I would be without MAN… I wouldn’t trade my experience for the world.” Shaun Samson

J W ANDERSON

AGI & SAM

“We were part of something that felt so big. Very surreal.” Astrid Andersen

Christopher Shannon

Liam Hodges

Craig Green

“Lulu was full of energy, advice, encouragement and fun. She was a trailblazer – fixing, sorting, organising and laughing, always.” James Long

Photographer: Jesse Jenkins

Fashion: Madeleine Østlie

Words: Brooke McCord

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LCM: Agi & Sam SS16

Wonderland Staff — Sun, 14 Jun 2015 11:34:49 +0000

Sprinkled with stars amongst a sea of blue, Agi & Sam ticked all the texture boxes with their casually smart SS16 collection.

Stars and Stripes

With navy, sky blue and white pyjama stripes, the more colourful half of the collection pieced together a classic print at awkward angles. On trousers with the thinnest lines, the pattern was like a watery optical illusion (much like their UV ink invitations complete with torch) and under-layers adorned with the same hues of blue dripped out from beneath coats. The stars came to life as each model’s make-up look. As if they’d been flying too close to the sun, each was splashed with a slick of charcoal black masking their eyes with star imprints left clear. We’ll be trying that one with our own DIY stencils at some point.

Casually Smart

Next time you’re invited to a party with the eternally confusing ‘smart casual’ dress code, pick Agi and Sam. A mash up of street trends and timeless styles, the duo stripped everything back into a single format coloured in soft camel and fresh white and blue. Caps without peaks, clean cut zipped hoodies, loose lightweight jackets like cropped lab coats and thick outerwear came together seamlessly and could be worn interchangeably like the capsule wardrobe of your dreams.

Shearling for Spring

It was everyone’s fuzz of choice for Autumn Winter, now Agi and Sam have extended shearling’s shelf life with pure white fluff collars as a contrasting texture to their sheer fabrics. Smooth leather-shine shorts and heavy duty plastic rain coats ticked plenty more texture boxes. Even better, with all their hoods are waterproofs in summer colours, you can dress in Agi and Sam in any weather. An intentional plan for fashion domination? We hope so.

Photography: Anabel Navarro.

Words: Lily Walker.

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60 Seconds With: Agi & Sam

Wonderland Staff — Tue, 09 Jun 2015 09:31:39 +0000

Ahead of London Collections: Men, we peer into Agi & Sam’s pre-show world.

Give us a sneak preview in three words… Our Worst Nightmares.

What has been soundtracking your time in the studio this season? Rocket Juice and The Moon.

Are there any particular artists that you have referenced in particular this season? Debra Smith.

What were your main inspirations for SS16? Nightmares, PJ’s and Prison.

What sort of details can we expect? Expensive Trimmings.

Who is the ultimate pin-up guy for SS16? Yasiin Bey.

What’s your favourite piece from the collection? Faux Fur Collar Harrington.

How will the boys be wearing their hair for the show? In what ever way they want it.

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LCM: Agi & Sam SS15

Wonderland Staff — Mon, 16 Jun 2014 08:20:35 +0000

Practicality was the word at Agi & Sam’s SS15 show where the designers revised traditional work wear to meet the needs of contemporary living

The duo’s collection was borne from the need for a readdressed form of tailoring which manifested itself in boxy silhouettes evolving from the usual tight cut suits from previous shows. Agi & Sam explained the departure, saying: “When we wear suits, we feel awkward. It doesn’t feel relevant to us, they’re such a past life experience. We want to make something smart that adheres to our lifestyle, on our bikes, at meetings, at a party.”

With movement on the mind, wide trousers were worn like extended skateboard shorts with aprons tied above as an ode to the theme of utilitarianism of menswear, while a bomber jacket was topped with vinyl to provide functional ventilation next to the skin. This kind of practicality is rarely addressed in fashion and bodes well for those who commute via skateboard.

The paradoxical elements of conformity and uniformity were visited throughout the show with loose fitting suit jackets whose silhouettes were derived from Japanese kimonos perfectly encapsulating the vibe. Hidden poppers ensured minimal detailing in line with the Japanese architectural aesthetic while poly-blended merino wool t-shirts were worn underneath and were heat pressed to appear one-dimensional.

Texture was created with pleats, which ran as a recurring theme throughout the show, mostly seen on trousers varying in width. The standout piece of the show was undoubtedly a trio of jumpsuits that also played with texture through print, which imitated the raised effect of grouting on the outside of Japanese buildings. This dynamic scratched check echoed the bold monochromatic check of the duo’s previous AW14 collection.

The colour palette was controlled, moving exclusively from colour blocked whites through to muted tones of grey, camel and varying shades of blue while the models sported not-normally-so-chic grown out bowl cuts inspired by 90’s skater boys. Agi & Sam’s SS15 collection fluidly danced between the uniformity of menswear and contemporary ease of wear to provide a wardrobe for the working man on the move.

The Agi & Sam after-party took place at the Sanderson Hotel with Patron Tequila.

Words: Josie Ayre

Photography: Amy Beasley

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LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN: DAY 3

Wonderland Staff — Fri, 10 Jan 2014 07:38:48 +0000

Here are our best bits from LC:M Day 3 including Burberry, Sibling, Agi and Sam and Nasir Mazhar.

Day 3 of LC:M begun with newly awarded ‘Best Emerging Menswear Designers’ Agi and Sam who instead of their usual colour explosion this season sent out design in strict monochrome, then onto Sibling where the boys looked tough in short shorts and extravagant knits. Onto Burberry where this seasons accessories were key having shawls over the shoulders of every look. Next Christopher Shannon who again did a modern take on the tracksuit, and finally over to Nasir Mazhar who had recreated traditional tailoring items such as cummerbunds in his usually Nasir style. Here are our best bits from Day 3 at LC:M!

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London Collections: Backstage at Agi & Sam SS14

Wonderland Staff — Mon, 17 Jun 2013 18:18:11 +0000

Agi & Sam returned to LC:M fresh off the back of the owl-themed collaboration with Topman, in a show that’s just as fabulously inventive.

MAN veterans Agi & Sam provided a master class in prints and colour blocking, in a show that got everyone chatting for all the right reasons (digital print! Colour! Pleating!) at the close of play at London Collections on Sunday. The pair riffed on the idea of an old man looking out of his window and marvelling at the way kids dress on the bus and train, and this manifested as a bus-bench print (in the heart of the ridiculous the sublime and all that).

Special mention has to go to the Morse code print suits. In the same way that last season was all about owl print, SS14 was pure Aztec, bold and bright brilliance for Agi & Sam. Sportswear, as seen earlier in the day, at, er, just about everywhere was also a definite influence, proving that the kids can do the big trends as well as the seasoned designers. An honorary shout out for the pair wearing the brand’s recent Topman collaboration and a pair of giant owl masks, too. Drawing influence from Craig Green’s cardboard sculptures, perhaps?

MORE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN COVERAGE
Topman Design collection review
Backstage at Astrid Andersen
Backstage at MAN: Bobby Abley, Alan Taylor and Craig Green
Backstage at Lee Roach
Backstage at Richard Nicoll
Lou Dalton collection review

Words: Sophie Haslett (Follow Sophie on Twitter @SophieHaslettXX)
Images: Tom Gildon

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LONDON COLLECTIONS: Backstage at Astrid Andersen, Agi & Sam and Craig Green AW13

Wonderland Staff — Tue, 08 Jan 2013 16:19:34 +0000

Innovation and a few eyebrow-raising concepts were on display at the MAN show yesterday. The collaboration between Topshop and Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East saw Craig Green’s debut and the final collections by Astrid Andersen and Agi & Sam.

Astrid Andersen warmed crowds up with a little Kendrick Lamar before sending out her feminine, new-wave take on old-school sportswear. Girly lilac, black and gold were seen on her tough-guy models, all of whom sported metallic gold lippie on their lower lip. Fila provided the obligatory white trainers – though that didn’t stop Andersen from emblazoning her name across the super-luxe sportswear.

Recent Central Saint Martins graduate Craig Green might have raised the anti-fashion hackles of the Daily Mail brigade with his ‘plank hats’, but his use of cuffed trousers, super-crinkled fabric and oversized layering was inspired. With models dipped in black paint and stalking the runway to a pounding soundtrack from HEALTH, he didn’t win any points for cute – but then again, it’s not like he was trying. London at its rebellious, bonkers best.

Agi & Sam took things back to boarding school with their good-humoured take on British country aristocracy – complete with basset hounds, flat caps and super-rouged cheeks (red from the bracing English country air, presumably). The Jack Wills crowd got a look in with smartened-up gilets and tweed, but smart twists kept things interesting – brogues with a bright Wellington boot casing, for instance, or micro-printed silk suits. E. Tautz’s Patrick Grant even made a catwalk appearance – although he was somewhat overshadowed by Agi & Sam’s final model, Dumbledore.

MORE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN COVERAGE:
Backstage at MAN: Astrid Anderson, Craig Green and Agi & Sam
Backstage at Richard Nicoll
Backstage at Topman Design
Backstage at James Long
Backstage at Christopher Shannon
Backstage at JW Anderson
Backstage at Jonathan Saunders
Backstage at Shaun Samson

Words: Zing Tsjeng
Images: Harry Carr

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