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All clothing by GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI

Shirt LOUIS VUITTON

Trousers CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

Jacket GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI

Choker and jacket by J.W.Anderson

Coat DIOR HOMME

Coat and trousers CRAIG GREEN

Trousers CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

All clothing LOUIS VUITTON

Coat and trousers CRAIG GREEN

Necklace, braclet and jumper worn around waist VIVIENNE WESTWOOD and trousers CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

Helmet STYLIST’S OWN

Photography: Elliot Morgan

Fashion: Kamran Rajput

Grooming: Alex Fairburn

Models: Guy at IMG and Lucien at NAMED

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The name Dior is one that evokes visions of glamour, sophistication and elegance. Opening on 3rd June 2016, the new Dior flagship boutique, at 160-162 New Bond Street, is the embodiment of all those qualities we associate with one of fashion’s most famous houses. Spanning four floors, the boutique has been designed by architect Peter Marino, who fused emblematic Dior codes with British traditions.

The design of the flagship is like the Parisian hotel of our dreams. The stone interior is bright and sophisticated, with silk carpets and furniture in Neo-Louis XVI styles forming an amazing modern luxury feel that is beautifully clean and elegant. The artwork decorating the boutique is reflective of Monsieur Christian Dior’s personal tastes; just look towards the “Distant Cousin” sculpture by Tony Cragg, taking centre-stage in the stairwell.

Being the largest Dior boutique in the UK means plenty of space for all of Dior’s coveted and exclusive lines. There’s the womenswear ready-to-wear alongside accessories, jewellery, timepieces, Baby Dior and children’s wear. Dior Homme is stocked on the lower level, with an exclusive demi-mesure service, available for the first time in the UK. For Dior’s VIP clients, there’s the option of occupying one of the three private salons. So fancy. There’s also a perfume area where you can spritz all of Dior’s coveted perfumes to your heart’s desire, after testing the exclusive creations made just for the flagship and the Collection Privée Christian Dior that is.

The new flagship store also unveils an exclusive Dior Homme collection. There is everything from teas inspired by the house’s most iconic perfumes, to crystal glassware embellished with gold couture stitches and collaborations with artists including Lucie de la Falaise. This is all on top of the limited edition selection of Lady Dior bags – one of the most iconic handbags Dior has ever created.

Dior, you really are spoiling us.

The Dior Boutique will open Friday 3 June, at 160-162 New Bond Street.

Words: Annabel Lunnon

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Few designers are as successful in building a universe around their collections as Gosha Rubchinskiy. The Russian designer has built a formidable reputation based on his sartorial explorations of youth culture – he even has financial backing from the enigmatic Rei Kawakubo, who sat front row at his AW16 show. Entitled “Save and Survive”, the collection featured the trademark references to Rubchinskiy’s homeland (Cyrillic slogans were printed on black sweatshirts) and the usual plethora of tucked-in tracksuit bottoms and oversized denims.

The real difference here is the casting – Rubchisnkiy’s boys (and girls) are inimitable, individual faces which stand out against the formulaic casting characteristic of high fashion. Some were punks with brightly-coloured mohawks and bleached bowl cuts, others were skinheads dressed in denim waistcoats and braces. Some were tracked down by the designer himself – teen photographer Tom Emmerson recently spoke to Dazed about how he met the designer at a book signing and was subsequently cast. It’s this element of personality that ensures that editors hungry for authenticity remain enamoured with Gosha Rubchinskiy and his trademark cast of teen misfits.

THOM BROWNE

It has long been argued that the art of spectacle on the runway is fast disappearing. One man looking to disprove this argument is designer Thom Browne who, last season, commissioned the construction of a Japanese-style teahouse to house his twisted geisha. It should therefore come as no surprise that a grandiose country manor hosted the designer’s AW16 collection, which reversed the frequently-referenced narrative of deconstruction.

Instead of choosing to unravel the pristine, Browne instead sequenced the collection like a trilogy. The first looks on the runway were dishevelled – blazers had their hems frayed and unpicked, whereas a series of patchwork jackets were laden with moth-eaten holes. As the collection progressed Browne slowly began to reconstruct the withered aesthetic. Elements of luxury began to creep in; horizontal stripes on overcoats were encrusted with hundreds of tiny pearls, and the previous patchwork jackets reappeared with patches of fur sewn on. Canine inspiration also became apparent – small yellow dogs were knitted onto shirts and jackets, whereas dog-shaped bags covered in fur provided the highlight of a theatrical collection which stood out amongst its polished contemporaries.

DIOR HOMME

Subculture has always been, and will most likely continue to be, an endless source of inspiration for designers. The likes of Hedi Slimane and Raf Simons have built enduring careers on its visual foundations – Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche is the latest designer to incorporate subculture, presenting a sartorial pick n’ mix for AW16. The headwear, a fusion of peaked baseball caps and beanies, was a definite reference to 90s skaters, whereas the black nail varnish and recurring bondage stripes were an obvious nod to punk.

Tartan overcoats and Fair Isle roll-necks also made a runway appearance, offering some of the collection’s most wearable highlights. Black leather trench coats were another key piece, adorned with silver hardware but teamed with drawstring trousers and cosy knits to soften their severity. The collection was designed to mirror the sartorial habits of today’s youth – with the power of the Internet at our fingertips we can now research and immerse ourselves in various subcultures in a matter of minutes, incorporating their visual tropes into our daily lives. Van Assche is clearly a man that understands the importance of youth, creating a collection which, despite its nods to the past, feels distinctly forward-thinking.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

Yohji Yamamoto has always done things slightly differently. Ever since he emerged as part of a wave of Japanese avant-garde designers in the 1980s, Yamamoto has been busy redefining femininity with his combination of fluid silhouettes and sharp tailoring – a signature aesthetic which remains in tact even 35 years later. This season, however, political statements were weaved in amongst the usual heavy knits and drop-crotch cloth trousers. The collection’s undisputed highlight came emblazoned on the back of a T-shirt – “Corporate Mother Fuckers.”

Tellingly, the collection came without a press release. Evidently Yamamoto prefers to let his work do the talking as opposed to providing written statements questioning the role of commerce and its suppression of creativity. It was significant though – just months after Raf Simons bowed out of his position at Dior due to its breakneck pace and Alber Elbaz was pushed out of Lanvin by shareholders. It was especially significant because Yamamoto rarely creates political statements; but AW16 was proof that, when he does, the industry takes notice.

Words: Jake Hall

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Taken from the 10th Birthday Issue of Wonderland.

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Photographer Ash Reynolds and stylist John Pashalidis team up for a black and white Wonderland editorial.

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