Join us as we decode this year’s Met Gala theme, explore Black dandyism, and set expectations for one of the biggest nights in fashion.
For the first time in two decades, the Met Gala spotlight shines exclusively on menswear. And better yet, with the theme of “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” echoing a homecoming through African American history; Black dandyism.
Black dandyism, you ask? Think razor-sharp suits, larger-than-life flair, and a whole lot of oomph. André 3000’s camp brilliance, A$AP Rocky’s avant-garde swagger, Prince’s purple majesty, Billy Porter’s theatrical elegance – modern-day dandies, living art. Because ultimately, it’s not just about looking good. It’s about being someone. It’s about identity – the history of how Black men have rewritten style rules. A legacy of rebellion, courage, and uncompromising self-expression, stitched into every look.
As The Met continues its shift towards greater access and inclusivity, this year’s gala offers more space for Black designers and celebrities to take centre stage. But beyond the dazzling carpet lies a rich, often overlooked history — waiting to be unearthed. We’re peeling back the layers of Black dandyism: a legacy built by men who dared to redefine elegance on their own terms. Tracing its threads from historical origin to contemporary revival, we explore the revolution still being tailored today.
Historical Context
Let’s rewind, shall we? To 18th-century England, where the term “dandy” was born — a gilded label for those who lived for the finer things: art, feasts, and of course, fabulous attire. Julius Soubise, an Afro-Caribbean man, became known for his refined style and social presence. He navigated elite circles, and his meticulous attention to dress challenged the era’s racial hierarchies. He wore fashionable, high-end clothing of the time — diamond-buckled, red-heeled shoes, typically reserved for wealthy white men. It was a statement: he was just as worthy of high fashion and high social standing as any of them.
During the Harlem Renaissance, there was a surge in Black cultural expression, including a vibrant embrace of dandyism. Men like George Walker had Harlem painted in style, often favouring tailored suits, bold colours, and accessories like hats and canes — projecting an image of elegance and self-possession.
But dandyism has constantly reinvented itself. From the Chitlin’ Circuit zoot suits to Dapper Dan’s monogrammed magic, from Blaxploitation’s swagger to Pharrell’s LV runways — it’s a story of evolution.
Years later, we see modern designers sustaining this legacy:
Dapper Dan
In the late 20th century, Harlem-based designer Dapper Dan (Daniel Day) revolutionised fashion by stitching together two seemingly distant worlds: high-end luxury and gritty street style. His custom creations for hip-hop artists and cultural icons boldly reimagined designer logos and materials, turning them into statements of identity and power. In bringing high fashion into the heart of hip-hop, he didn’t just rewrite the rules — he changed the face of modern fashion entirely.
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner reimagines Black dandyism as a poetic, intellectual pursuit — one that fuses heritage with high fashion. The British-Jamaican designer, who launched her eponymous label in 2014 after graduating from Central Saint Martins, has become known for her deeply researched, culturally rich collections. Her work draws on Black literature, music, art, and historical tailoring traditions, creating garments that are as much about storytelling as they are about style. Think tactile silks and wools, hand-crafted details, vibrant palettes — all composed with a quiet, confident elegance.
Willy Chavarria
Chavarria throws dandyism into the industrial blender of modern streetwear, and what comes out? A raw, powerful, captivating vision. From his lived experience, Willy sculpts a narrative of working-class pizzazz. Oversized silhouettes, sharp tailoring with hints of grit and glamour. His designs are love letters to the Chicano and Black communities and takes the classic dandy’s attention to detail and injects it with rebellion. Dandyism for the now, for the real, for the people.
So, with this dandy wisdom, what’s the Met about to show us?
Designers will arrive armed with historical references and a sharp contemporary edge. Expect bold colour palettes, intricate detailing, luxe fabrics, and silhouettes that celebrate the Black body. It’s set to be a runway revolution — a moment where Black designers and celebrities reclaim the narrative of style, transforming the Met Gala into a living, breathing work of art, much like the museum itself. It’s a well-deserved spotlight for talents like Telfar Clemens, Bianca Saunders, and Marvin Desroc — and we couldn’t be more thrilled to watch them take centre stage.
Sure, some guests will (as always) miss the mark. But with a co-chair dream team of A$AP Rocky, Pharrell, Colman Domingo, and Lewis Hamilton? We’re in safe hands. Expect excellence. Expect extravagance. Expect to feel deeply underdressed. The first Monday in May 2025. We are ready.
Words – Isabella Ardeman
