Matthieu Blazy’s Métiers d’art debut for Chanel brought the French Maison back to New York with cinematic flair, transforming the city’s subway into a time-slipping runway. The show revived Chanel’s long love affair with New York, and asked every viewer the same question: which archetype are you?
What did the city that never sleeps look like when Gabrielle Chanel wandered its streets in 1931, en route to and from Hollywood? And what were New Yorkers wearing then? Last night, we got a vivid glimpse. Matthieu Blazy’s Métiers d’art debut for Chanel transformed the New York subway into a runway of characters, a living storyboard where Parisian savoir-faire collided with the charisma and grit of the city’s pop culture. It wasn’t the first time the French Maison touched down in the Big Apple, but it was the first time in 7 years: Karl Lagerfeld last brought Métiers d’art here with his MoMA show in 2018, staged in front of the Temple of Dendur.
This time, beneath the gaze of a star-studded front row at 168 Bowery, including Ayo Edebiri, A$AP Rocky, Kristen Stewart or Sofia Coppola, flappers glided past downtown girls, mystics mingled around muses, and comic-book heroes shared space with socialites. Each figure appeared through meticulous embroideries, hand-painted silks, and slubbed leopard tweeds handwoven by Lesage or fascinators from the milliners of Maison Michel, bags were reimagined as pets, or coffee cups.
As the cast flowed seamlessly across eras from the 1920s to the 2020s, one question lingered in the air: which archetype are you?
The Tourist
In New York strictly for the content. Spends the day power-walking through the MoMA and the Met, only to end up queuing at Kiki’s on the LES like it’s a spiritual pilgrimage. Loves Carrie Bradshaw.
The Bride
The chicest woman to ever glide through NYC City Hall. She is probably eloping, and met her fiancé on Raya not long ago. It’s her second wedding, and she fully believes manifestation, and an arsenal of lucky charms, got her here.
The DC Comics Geek
Corporate by day, superhero by night. Sleeps in DC pyjamas. Has seen every DC, Marvel film on the day of release. Her office is in Flatiron but she co-organises Comic Arts Brooklyn, and treats it like the Met Gala.
The NYU International Student
Lives in the West Village but religiously migrates to Dimes Square after her digital marketing class. Carries a Trader Joe’s tote like it’s a family crest and gets her coffee at Blank Street.
The Archive Girl
Runs an archive rental shop like the navy. Grew up on Depop and speaks fluent early-2010s Tumblr. Great scammer obsessed with Mary Boone and loves fashion parties, specially if there is free drinks.
The It-Girl
Real life Blair Waldorf, she was recently seen having dinner at Keith McNally’s Balthazar with Marc Jacobs. She always keeps her black sunglasses on and loves staying over at the Bowery. She has rejected the Dare twice.
The literate
Went to a better college than most of us and has a book published through Dashwood Books. Gives her friends deeply serious tarot readings and somehow always pulls The Tower at the exact right moment.
The Brit Abroad
Has been subletting random studios for two years straight. Moved to NYC after seeing photos from Alexa Chung’s NYC era on Pinterest. Packed tea bags and a raincoat from London, refuses to part with either.
10. The Upper East Sider
Walks her well groomed dog when she needs a mental health walk, but usually someone else does it for her. No one knows her source of income, but everyone knows she has the best jewellery in the room.
11. The #1 Warhol Fan
Lives in a Bed-Stuy flat share and has just discovered Edie Segwick when reading Just Kids by Patti Smith. Constantly urging friends to “go out more.” Currently dating a musician, of course.
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Photography – Dan Lecca
