If you were to be a main character, who would you choose? To give you some inspiration, let’s look into Prada’s FW22 collection, where Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reimagined the quintessential mature yet futuristic working man, donning structured tailoring and rigid voluminous silhouettes. During this period, the duo defied conventions in a gender-fluid era, steering the industry toward a more conservative direction.

The upcoming Fall/Winter 2024 in men’s fashion follows their path, introducing a both wearable and commercial approach that honours the classic representation of masculinity, as predicted by Prada and Simons — but this time, infused with a touch of juvenile imagination. Genderless and streetwear dominance were not the main topics on the runway, but in 2024, there was space for inventive male archetypes to shine.

Take a look…

The weather is cold, but the trends are hotter than ever: if we are talking archetypes, Pharell Williams introduces us to the ultimate cowboy style in its most traditional aesthetic. Think of fringes, flair trousers, canadian tuxedos, large belts and turquoise beadings. Louis Vuitton’s runway in Paris was a blissful mix of fashion, music, entertainment and, of course, commercial appeal.

Warming up for the Paris 2024 Olympics, the casting included the runway debut of French fencer Enzo Lefort, who became an ambassador for Louis Vuitton and LVMH in October 2023 due to the holding’s partnership with the Olympic Games.

Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto put together a “weird birthday party” — in their own words and ways — drenched in punk and subculture-esque references for their FW24 show. A highlight of their big night goes to Vivienne Westwood’s Andreas Kronthaler in the cast, walking down the catwalk wearing a leather parka and boots, and a gelled-up mohawk. The contrast between happiness and darkness, and vulnerability and strength, were also shown in cut-out dresses and wide shouldered tailored coats.

The exploration of dichotomies is Prada at its finest, and for FW24, the runway was filled with a tension between nature and urban life. The office boy who wears a double-belted waist and leather sandals with suits wants to reach the outdoors and craves escapism.

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons are pros in giving us an intentional discomfort on the notion of taste and beauty. The highlight, beyond the concept itself, are the swim caps as head-hugging accessories. ‘Cause, why not?

The comeback of Balmain to the menswear schedule was all about freedom, individuality, and colour. Rousteing’s winter men are wonderful African sapeurs, gentlemen who are known for mixing French tailoring and joyful African patterns in their appearance.

Two highlights to point out: the graphic artwork from the Ghanaian artist Prince Gyasi on overcoats, suits and accessories, and Naomi Campbell’s grand finale on the runway.

Martine Rose’s AW 2024 served discretion. Odd to the mainstream, the beloved British designer chose to present her collection to the ones that matter most: her closest friends. Phones were not allowed and the presentation was discreetly recorded. The show took us back to the 80’s, or even before, when the runway was a stage for fun.

Under the dramatic sound of Russian composer Sergei Prokofiev, creative director Kim Jones made a personal homage to his family’s connection to music and dance through Soviet-born ballet dancer and choreographer Rudolf Nureyev.

The British creative director staged couture techniques into a ready-to-wear collection, under a mix between historical and modern shapes. Highlights include colour block knitwear, zip-front jumpsuits, and a strong approach to tailoring.

The American-born Colm Dillane can’t be bored at any of his fashion shows. For this one, he brought Brazilian former professional footballer Ronaldinho onto the runway. Rocking the ultimate floor-length fake fur coat and oversized T-shirt with his own face printed on it, he stunned the crowd. According to Dillane, it was a dream come true to him — and maybe for all of us, too.

The man on Givenchy’s runway was a contemporary gentleman. After Matthew Williams left the creative helm last year, the studio was inspired by personal garments of the late founder Hubert de Givenchy.

There were fewer traditional male stereotypes in this show, yet positive tensions between the masculine and feminine found in Givenchy’s wardrobe and in the decors of his homes. We can see that in the re-contextualisation of the off-white blouse, usually worn by Hubert de Givenchy himself, in an elegant workwear version.

Zegna called out for a landscape experience indoors, with its mountainous Oasi Cashmere centrepiece on the runway – a tribute to Oasi Zegna natural territory, in the Italian Alps. The set design highlighted the collection, which came down in rhythmic colour hues and layers of fabric expertise.