Wonderland.

GRAND PRIX D’HOROLOGIE DE GENèVE

An evening at The Oscars (Ish), but make it watches: find out what went down at the esteemed watch ceremony.

Gathering crowds, prestigious awards, speeches that go on for too long. No, it’s not the Oscar’s, but the watch industry’s most esteemed ceremony of the year: GPHG, otherwise known as Grand Prix d’Horologie de Genève. If you’re unfamiliar and new here to all things watches, welcome. This esteemed award ceremony is the equivalent of a night at the Academy, with guests flocking in from across the world, from curators, collectors, storytellers, and of course, the nominated brands.

Picture it like this. Housing pretty much the entire watch industry in one room (give or take a few brands), the celebration pays tribute to the outliers and excellence of another year in making things tick. Amongst the categories, you’ll find the usual; Best Men’s Watch, Best Ladies Watch etc., but this is where the watch industry makes awards ceremonies a little more spicy. Among the roster of accolades, you can find the Best Artistic Craft, the most Mechanical Exception, and even the Best Young Student, learning to be the watchmaker of tomorrow. Nominees included some of the hallmark of the watch world, from the esteemed TAG Heuer, pitched for three nominations, to Parmigiani Fleurier.

Disclaimer, the entire ceremony is in French. But let that not deter from the spotlight on greatness that this historic and technologically driven community pays tribute to, every single day. Among the victors of the ceremony, the horological hot shots and universally enamoured Audemars Piguet took the top prize, the Aguille d’Or, and not for their hallmark Royal Oak, might I add. Instead, it was their Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle RD #4. Fear not in memerising this (particularly if you struggle to even memorise your PIN code), but remember it as the watch that has a staggering 23 complications – a function that goes beyond telling the time – in one watch. Whether you’re a novice, newbie, or total watch nerd, that’s a mean feat and deserves applause.

Piaget scored high coming home with two awards; the Ladies and Artistic Craft awards, showcasing the Maison’s intricate spirit that continues to excel itself into the modern day. But it wasn’t just about the household names. It was a celebration of an industry broadening its gates – and those who gate-keep it, with a jury more diverse than ever, including watch cultural commentator, Dimepiece, and watchmaker Danièla Dufour leading the charge for women. This manifested in the lesser known names to those that don’t live and breathe watches scoring prizes, with the likes of Petermann Bédat and Voutilainen coming out on top.

Awards aside, this year’s GPHG was a testament to an industry valorising its role in the present day, questioning its categories (such as why Ladies’ Complications are their own category, and not just Complications), and who is the right person to deliver these truths. It’s a moment of reflection, to witness the undercurrent of voices from the next generation emerge from within, and most importantly, it’s a sign that the value of community is consolidating the roots of this enigmatic world, far into the future.

Words
Scarlett Baker