Set amongst the heritage brands and luxury labels, emerging designers’ collections have always been some of the most exciting moments of fashion seasons — and Spring/Summer 2024 was no exception. To celebrate young brands (established within the past seven years), we have rounded up five favourites from each fashion capital. Scroll to see who stole our attention…

Every season, Private Policy focuses their collection on a specific social topic in a creative effort to build community and spark discussion. Their exciting, colourful, and bold SS24 collection brought awareness to Coral Reef protection — and we absolutely loved it.

You might know them for their cookie bags, but Puppets and Puppets is so much more. For the SS24 collection, Creative Director Carly Mark and her design team combined humorous with haunting imagery for a reflection on how it feels to process emotions in today’s climate.

Chase Shuman’s debut presentation at NYFW, titled Poetry of the Interior, is a powerful exploration of deconstruction. With asymmetrical lines and innovative materials, the recent Savannah College of Art and Design graduate pushes boundaries and opens a conversation that is set to continue through his next collection. And we can’t wait to see it.

Black-owned luxury womenswear label Maui X Lolita was co-founded by mother-daughter duo Lolita and Maui Malone. For their Spring/Summer 2024 collection, the two women brought their Ready-To-Wear designs to new heights — on a rooftop overlooking the Empire State Building. Denim and sequins galore, the presentation was truly for, as the brand says, for today’s “Fly Girl”.

Sam Finger’s SS24 collection was appropriately titled Heat Wave. Joining the CFDA calendar for the first time, the designer pushed his up-cycling background even further, with a Ready-To-Wear collection of womenswear, menswear, and genderless pieces.

Masha Popova’s sophomore catwalk show, MONSTER, was a seasonless, wonderfully loud, and powerful blend of autumnal and summery styles for a comprehensive, one-of-a-kind lineup of looks.

Paolo Carzana’s My Heart is a River For You to Bend was an intimate and intricate collection full of organic layering, exaggerated silhouettes, and soft yet commanding hues. Absolutely beautiful, the SS24 show stole our hearts.

Conner Ives’ SS24 collection, titled Late Capitalism, was presented as a digital fashion film. With the tagline “Finding ourselves in the beginning of the end of the world, we are in line for a sample sale,” it sparks a conversation about the current state of society — from the struggling environment to consumerist crazes.

Feben’s SS24 collection, titled Temple, explored the ideas of home and vulnerability. With curved lines and optical illusions, the pieces were soft yet structural, paying homage to our bodies as spaces that house us all.

Sinéad O’Dwyer’s SS24 collection took the designer back to her roots in more ways than one. Exploring memories of her rural Irish teenage years and presenting at The Royal College of Art, she experiments with after-school dressing and summertime wardrobes.

Del Core’s Slices of Reverie was a beautiful and detailed SS24 collection, exploring nature and architecture as they coexist. Juxtaposing symmetry with irregularity, the looks featured dynamic layering and pastel hues for a beautiful lineup.

Since 2019, Cormio has been addressing the political climate of gender equality in Italy. With silhouettes that explore both sensual and disruptive motifs, from panties to bats, the SS24 collection was one of our favourites.

Based in Antwerp, Shuting Qiu describes itself as daring yet soft, powerful yet romantic, and strong yet cheerful. All of these ideas were present in their SS24 collection, Island Dreams and Ocean Preservation, a beautiful and vibrant celebration of nature.

Marco Rambaldi’s SS24 collection was titled Malafemmina, translating to “bad women” — and it certainly paid homage to such. Powerful and sharp amongst a garden of flowers, the models walked in a lineup of looks that embodied a sense of freedom — while looking at the journey of achieving such an ideal.

Based in Stockholm, Rave Review launched in 2017 and has since been short-listed for the LVMH Prize. This season, designers Livia Schück and Josephine Bergqvist showed their collection in Milan, firmly positioning themselves as one to watch. With an emphasis on fabrication and carefully selecting existing materials for their perfectly-imperfect styles, they certainly offered a fresh point of view this SS24 season.

MaisonCléo has been making waves since their inception mere years ago. Using leftover fabrics from French couture houses and factories, they design beautiful items with meaningful stories — and their new collection La Poupette was no exception. With references to the west coast of France, rainy adventures, and vintage family photographs, the show was a personal and lovely tribute to the designer’s grandfather.

Anne Isabella’s SS24 collection, Lenticular, brought 1960s mod styles to the present day. With exciting psychedelic prints, mini silhouettes, and go-go boots, the looks are as retro as they are current — one of the many reasons they caught our eye.

Launched in 2020, Weinsanto focuses on bright colours and cabaret-themed presentations, and their SS24 collection was all that and more. Titled Perfect Day, it highlighted an immaculate attention to detail and bold, over-the-top accessories. We’re obsessed.

Paula Canovas del Vas’ SS24 collection marked six months of the designer calling Paris home — and it appropriately sparked discussions of journeys and transitions. With beautiful brush stroke patterns and new offerings of their recognisable double-pointed shoes, we have fallen even more in love with the brand.

Zimo’s Intimate Closet reimagines a 1990s mother’s wardrobe. As with all of the brand’s work, they take a close look at the intersection of fashion, art, and history, for a comprehensive documentary-style approach. Reinterpreting pieces and using deadstock fabric, the SS24 collection was as experimental and innovative as it was nostalgic — the perfect combination in our eyes.