Anthony Vaccarello offers up a structural dream for the House’s Men’s Winter 2023 collection.

Saint Laurent’s latest collection has set the tone for pitch-perfect proportions, impeccable tailoring, and thought-out conceptualisation. Evolving its former seasons, this collection sees the House delve into the space of Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection. Saint Laurent and art have always gone hand in hand, so the radical ‘structure-within-a-structure’ architecture of the museum is the perfect setting for its stellar collection to take effect. In the spirit of evolution, the space’s concrete cylinder evokes Saint Laurent’s previous menswear show, carrying the thread of the O shape – a symbol of utmost perfection, and purity of execution.

This collection is detail-oriented, with refinement at its core. Long, flowing silhouettes are juxtaposed with domineering shoulders – cinched in with a narrow waist. Traversing a very minimal colour palette – black, white, camel, navy, and glimmers of silver – it reiterates the collection’s sheer sophistication.

Brazen chiffon shirts and hooded knitwear tunics are coupled up with sweatpants-esque trousers that fall to the floor, giving the collection a slight casual feel. In terms of outerwear, coats inflate the collection with plenty of volume – while length and shape are reworked, reinterpreting the House’s established codes. An abundance of soft fabrics are also present, wherein mohair, cashmere, satin and velvet play off of the collection’s rigid textures. The collection creates a dialogue between notions of masculinity and femininity, and fluidity leads the way – melding together elements from the House’s men’s and womenswear collections. This dialogue is seen not only in the subversive proportions, but also in the draping of the body – evolving the hooded silhouettes the label previously displayed at its last womenswear collection.

There’s no denying that this collection has taken the internet by storm; for good reason. The entirety of it just oozes chic, and Vaccarello is at the helm. Gentle yet tough, fluid yet rigid – this collection contains multitudes, and everybody wants a slice.