Pure modern Italian sensibilities with classy accents and groundbreaking intent. Marco De Vincenzo’s Fall collection for Etro marked a pivotal moment at which the designer found a perfect equilibrium between his skilful thinking for what feels right—the big, bold silhouette he’s long fashioned—and the heritage of this lofty yet stately undercurrent of billowing staples. On the runway, a presentation on the backdrop of stacks of fabrics culled from the house’s archives, De Vincenzo modernised elements of sensible Italian outerwear, putting the knitted liner on the outside of jackets, while using simplified textures for better wearability. The effect, from the beginning to the lovely jacquard velvet blanket whose pattern is reproduced onto broad woollen coats and jackets at the end, had a freshness, poise, and elegance that was thoroughly compelling. The collection had a slouchy, loose, paired-together quality, like De Vincenzo’s skill, which was far beyond a few patterns loosely engaged with one another. The combination of ultra-classic or hyper-sporty touched the classic basics—jackets, field jackets, tuxedos—but he toyed with proportion, layered things which, oddly, were found constructed and reconstructed.

With this collection, one sensed that the designer followed his own instinct to become the latest example of a special phenomenon, designing menswear to match form and function is no mean feat, particularly done in an instinctive, smart way. Accordingly, the creative path originated the sense of reassurance offered by tactility, which becomes key, with jacquard and weaving overtaking print. Some strong toppers aside, clothes were put together and assembled to stimulate both sight and touch, with 3D crochet fruit growing on jumpers, melton patches defining jacket collars, and psychedelic swirls liquefying on fuzzy pullovers.

Garments-wise, it felt like a great step forward. The domestic camouflage was good, with upholstery fabrics cut into blousons, while overalls recalled curtains, and dress shirts resembled tablecloth. In keeping with the week’s trends, standouts include teddy shorts and tops, providing further homely cosiness. Hidden from sight, patterned linings are a private pleasure that further augments the play of motifs and textures, with tartan, an early Etro success, in a leading role. The gents’ trouser details and volumes had a more indicative vision in the longer term.

And as time changed, there were touches throughout that kept the offerings feeling mature. Little flowers bloom over smoking lapels and cummerbunds, from volumised pockets to the recurring tailored garb. All in all, this collection showed a gesture of confidence and creative control, unlike many racing runners during showtime. Love it or leave it—for the records, both reactions run apace in the designer’s ethos—De Vincenzo loves a baggy story.

Rounding out the collection, Fall saw a dramatic maturity in suiting; they were given a more mature shape than they’ve had in seasons past. They were kept accessible and easily wearable, which is safe to say is De Vincenzo’s sweet spot. Now that he’s concentrating adamantly on what he believes in, inevitably everything’s coming together.

Head below to see the collection for yourself, right now…