For Dior’s 2022 Cruise Collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri is taking us back to 1950’s Greece.
For their 2022 Cruise show, the house of Dior looked to the past, but not in a way you might expect. As it turns out, a series of photographs documenting one of Monsieur Dior’s haute couture lines, shot besides Greece’s iconic Parthenon in the midst of the ‘New Look’ era back in 1951, was the starting point.
Maria Grazia Chiuri, the house’s esteemed Creative Director, went right back to the root of civilization, looking to the traditional tales of love, lust and mythology that encouraged generations past to dream big, and dream wild. Touches of traditional Grecian insignia then slowly made their way into the atelier, a goddess tunic here, a visage of casted marble there. Followed by some entrancing handmade pleats and a trip to Athens, you can see where this story is headed – someone grab some plates!
Taking the pioneering work of surrealist artist Giorgio De Chirico and the renowned vases of intertwined wrestlers made by Alexander Iolas on board, Chirui thus weaved a rich tapestry of Grecian culture into the house codes of Dior, from classic white suits made in ode to Marlene Dietrich to asymmetric pleat gowns, separated by sections of flesh coloured beading and dainty silk belts that span over 90 looks.
Dresses are an undoubtable focal point, billowing and cascading down from the chest of their models, tiny straps supporting skin-bearing mesh that rouches and buckles in all the right places. Shoes are surprisingly practical, boisterous trainers or padded boots in sleek white leather. Gold accents adorn small fastenings, wrap themselves around holdalls and belts, or even form an array of ornate bangles and rings that twinkle and gleam in the right lighting.
There’s an air of sporty charm that carries on from footwear, rearing its head in shearling vests, smart shirting and varsity socks, a fusion of styles past and present that situates between lavish leather harnesses and coats in jaw-dropping printed patterns. The latter introduced a new palette of traditional blues, sun-kissed yellows and earth-toned greens, all fitting perfectly betwixt monochrome blazers, knits and airy, mid-length skirts.
Over half a decade on from the couture that framed Chiuri’s appraisal of fashion, the future of Dior here lies in what ‘femininity’ means today, and what it’ll continue to mean and morph into years from now. We just hope this season’s flourishes of ethereal glamour, and accidental Björk Golden Globe homages, stay for good.