Alexander McQueen’s SS21 Menswear collection reinvents the brand’s iconic past whilst also looking to its future.
You might remember the women of Alexander McQueen taking a coastside jaunt in the brand’s latest, renewable wears last month. Now it seems the boys have come along for the ride, too. Taking to those same chalky white cliffs, Sarah Burton has turned studio offcuts and stock fabric into a whole collection of menswear magic, reworking the old and surplus into the new and effortlessly chic.
Anticipating the cold months ahead for the house’s SS21 menswear collection, Burton immediately launches into a series of deconstructed trench coats, fusing sleek camel with warm, grey plaid. They’re nipped ever-so-slightly at the waist, or left to cascade past the knee as any attention-commanding duster should. The jacket frenzy continues with sleek bombers adorned with asymmetric pockets or patches of pearl embellishment, leather jackets dip-dyed in rosy pinks and fiery magentas, and ultimately reaches a climax in one particularly fetching half-tux, half-pocketed dress moment.
The collections’ other striking moments manifest themselves in bold graphic prints that cover shirts, blazers and straight-leg trousers, or in the chunky chains and even chunkier knits that follow soon after, fused together by amorphous wool in navy, cream and varsity red on vests, cardigans and cosy jumpers. There are simple white vests, complex ribboned sashes that wind around torsos and waists, and even a daring bid to bring back the signature McQueen bird tail, which we’re welcoming with open arms.
We know we shouldn’t play favourites, but it would be remiss of us not to shed a few happy tears over the collections pièce de résistance – a luscious cream suit consisting of overcoat and trousers, both covered head-to-toe in McQueen motifs ranging from decadent butterflies to the crispest of lapels. All find their place in the house’s ever-evolving visual language, and for that alone we’ll copping one of everything, please…