Wonderland.

LFW

From explosions and pyrotechnics at Paria Farzaneh to platform UGG’s at Molly Goddard, here’s what we loved at LFW SS21.

Paria Farzaneh SS21 Landscape
Paria Farzaneh SS21 Landscape

Finally, we’ve returned to that not-too-hot, not-too-cold week in September when the UK’s most fashion-minded flock to 180 The Strand to see the latest and greatest in the design world. Except, this year, that hasn’t actually happened at all. Instead, this season is all about capsules, virtual exhibits, socially distanced presentations and even a pyro-technic infused jaunt to Zone 9.

We’ve managed to pick 5 truly spectacular SS21 offerings that remind us why we love fashion so much, from the hairy-shoed creations of Molly Goddard to the body-bearing sexiness of Fashion East newbie Maximilian, here’s what we’ve been obsessing over all weekend…

Paria Farzaneh

Paria Farzaneh SS21 Green
Paria Farzaneh SS21

Shot by Chris Yates

Paria Farzaneh SS21 Green
Shot by Chris Yates
Paria Farzaneh SS21

Out on the wiley, windy moors (or the sun-kissed hills) of Little Missenden, Paria Farzaneh put on one of the most immersive runway experiences Wonderland has seen to date. “This is number 6,” said a maroon tote bag handed to guests on arrival, describing a show in reaction to several life-changing events of recent months. Explosives, fireworks and plumes of grey smoke kicked off this fashion blockbuster, with Farzaneh’s army of impeccably dressed warriors marched into plain sight.

It was green as far as the eye could see, in shades of olive on a ballooning parachute skirt adorned with thick square pockets, in neon on contrast stitched cargo pants and denim jackets, or even in captivating lime for her paper-thin windbreakers and thick coach jackets. Military camo dresses, thick-pocketed skirts, and billowing track pants were also dealt with via Farzaneh’s green finger as she dystopically prepares us to reclaim a world set ablaze with chaos.

Robyn Lynch

Robyn Lynch SS21 Orange
Robyn Lynch SS21 Orange
Shot by Chris Yates

Nostalgia obsessed designer Robyn Lynch absolutely knocks it out of the park with her cycling-themed SS21 collection. Staking her tricolour flag on the moon that is LFW, Lynch found inspiration for her latest project in the world’s logo-maniac approach to branding. The collection also marks the colour aficionado’s official pivot into womenswear. “I’ve always worn the pieces I’ve made,” she tells Charlie Porter, “so I wanted to expand the wardrobe and make womenswear for the first time.”

Of course, it’s not all shorts and thermal vests. As per usual, Lynch imbibes a cheeky spirit into the very threads of her work, fusing formal elements of tailoring and the acid house silhouette of the 90s into thick knits and baggy sports jackets. Trackie skirts fall effortlessly to the knee (and floor), accompanying pairs of hazy green shorts with toggled waistbands and plenty more Frankenstein-fused garms. Whether it be in polyester, wool, or velour, Lynch always manages to cook up the perfect concoction of casual athletic beauty, and bloody hell do we love her for it.

Maximilian @ Fashion East

Maximilian RTW Spring 2020
Shot by Chris Yates
Maximilian RTW Spring 2020

The newest addition to Lulu Kennedy’s emerging designer non-profit didn’t pull any punches in his LFW debut. The collection explores the rich history of Trinidad’s Carnival, in all of its tastemaking glamour. Necklines are plunged, with dresses and skirts slashed every which way to expose chest, back, and leg. Coats fall softly from the shoulder, hugging the body in all the right places while vests entangle themselves in knots across the torso. Here, Maximilian’s clothes don’t talk or shout, they dance, empower and seduce.

Seeing as he couldn’t send these divine creations down the runway himself, the Mancunian designer invited Ibrahim Kamara, Akinola Davies and Rafael Pavarotti along for the ride, creating a visually arresting campaign that commanded our attention and lust in equal parts. The sexiest debut show of all time? We think so too.

Molly Goddard

Molly Goddard SS21
Molly Goddard SS21 White Dress
Molly Goddard SS21
Shot by Chris Yates
Molly Goddard SS21 White Dress

Forget Shalamar, womenswear icon Molly Goddard can make you feel good! The tulle-skirt pioneer wants to make people happy with her clothes, and considered a chic and simplistic approach to her most recent collection. Of course, she abandoned that silly notion in favour of explosive colour, wild shapes and clashing patterns.

Those childish and whimsical elements we know and love are still there of course, whether it be in her colour palette of Stabilo Highlighters or layers of ruched, organza magic, but for SS21 these Goddard staples have matured. The Goddard girl still loves her frills and big skirts, but she also sports slinky cardi’s and shiny tote bags. I for one also appreciate the hairy UGG’s, and the Club Kid-esque platforms? Genius. Goddard’s foray into footwear is everything we need right now.

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane SS21 Eisel
Shot by Chris Yates
Christopher Kane SS21 Eisel

The sex loving Scotsman has gone all Hobby Craft on us this season – in a good way! In conversation with Kirsty Wark, the designer explained that his escape from the droll of being indoors during lockdown was painting, dodging the news and work-related Zoom calls as he hunkered down in a wholly expressive creative bubble. The result is some of his mosh garish work yet.

In fact, if the collection were a category for the Ru Paul’s Drag Race runway, we think “Zebra’s On Shrooms Extravaganza” might fit best. Think frocks with puffy skirts drip in gradients of orange and green, or thick belted jackets haphazardly flecked with glitter. There are beaded party dresses, puffy silk shirts dotted in painter’s palette print, and even stripey tunics – all bringing that thrilling kind of glamour and excitement synonymous with Kane’s work to the fore. Art Attack eat your heart out!

Words
Bailey Slater