Per Götesson AW20 collection fuses queer playwrights with culinary motifs.
Collages, cruising, and cuisine. Per Götesson combined all of this and more for this season’s offering of menswear genius. Taking immense inspiration from the life of Joe Orton, the queer playwright behind Entertaining Mr Sloane, his AW20 collection celebrates freedom, whether it be artistic or sexual, and the beauty of the repurposed.
Defunct urinals, sinks and other bathroom accoutrements litter the runway, bookended by two installations, one a homage to the bathrooms Orton would regularly cruise, another tended to by the students he teaches at the London College of Fashion – both stressing the idea of community as something powerful and, at least sometimes, pure.
The clothes continue telling this story, in collages of old fashion magazines and 70’s era cookbooks patchworked and printed on to gilets and aprons. A symbol of provision, these same aprons are sent askew into makeshift dresses or a blush-red crushed velvet number that is the dictionary definition of scarlet envy. Trouser pockets are even made deep enough to fit a chopping board, perhaps even a spice rack if you’re feeling lucky.
Gotesson’s distinct silhouettes nestle perfectly into an Alice In Wonderland-esque metric system of extreme sizes – big and small – only to place more emphasis on beautiful tailoring and breaks of bold colour. The shows pièce de résistance has to be the final looks crown of razor-sharp pencils. The spiky wonder is something Staples ought to try out as a uniform for their managers, or in more serious terms an homage to the power of the written word – either way, it’s a dangerous beauty that few are able to capture so thoughtfully each season.