Amongst a heavy rotation of neon colours, clashing patterns and maximalist-everything this fashion month, there was Yohji Yamamoto. Known for his expertise in tailoring and crafting avant-garde silhouettes, the Japanese designer came through with a unique, interesting and varied collection that was almost entirely all black – even down to the leather gloves, lipstick and flats.

Draping fabrics over ankle-length, long-sleeved garments, Yohji Yamamoto presented different textures and shapes with each look. There were asymmetric sleeves, high statement collars and sharp hemlines, dressed up with ruffles, stitching and buttons.

But while more was more with the material, the collection looked wonderfully half-undone, with messy buns, trailing loose threads and unravelling frays, and when there was colour, it was splattered in childlike hand-painting…