7 WONDERS: LONDON FASHION WEEK
Tears, laughter, and more tears: SS19’s standout moments.
After over 100 shows and presentations, dozens of glam parties and an inevitable four-day hangover, London Fashion Week has drawn to a close.
Exciting and experimental as ever, this season saw reinterpretations of longstanding legacies, a handful of landmark anniversaries and a plethora of emerging talent from the likes of Fashion East.
With too many iconic moments to count, catch up on the highlights of what went down in fashion’s most eccentric city.
1. Welcome back Victoria Beckham.
“Today is a milestone: our ten-year anniversary and my first show in London”, proclaimed Victoria Beckham’s show notes. Yep. She’s back.
Having shown in New York since her SS09 debut collection (iconic body-con galore), this season saw VB’s first show on home turf. The turnout confirmed what we already knew: since her controversial start in the industry, everybody’s favourite Spice Girl has well and truly established herself as one of the most hard-working women in fashion.
“It’s about dressing not only our woman, but our women”, she highlighted. “This season I wanted it to be about women as well as girls.”
And she followed through: like Victoria herself, the collection was as multi-faceted as they come. Offering everything from trench coats and tailored trousers to slouchy bags, she mixed boxy silhouettes with uber-feminine highlights.
We stan a London legend.
2. Molly Goddard turns up the heat.
The Molly Goddard girl knows how to party. This season, it’s going down by the Mediterranean Sea, featuring sangria, food from the local mercado and, as always, a killer dress.
For her SS19 show, Molly’s mum and set designer Sarah Edwards transformed her show space into a bustling Spanish market, kitted out with crates, sun umbrellas and fresh produce. Because why can’t you pick up dinner in a ballgown?
Molly came through with her signature playful, textured aesthetic. Carrying forward girly gingham from her AW18 collection, her reimagination of classic holiday garms also featured a heady dose of floral prints and polkadots.
“She’s acquired a slight flush and is unsure whether it’s down to the sunburn or the cervezas” Molly explained, describing SS19’s leading lady, “but she doesn’t care and it becomes her.” Obviously.
3. Burberry, but different.
The Burberry show has always been a highlight of London Fashion Week, but this year it felt ceremonial.
Debuting his first collection for the brand, Riccardo Tisci created a 134-look (seriously) extravaganza.
Starting with a serene, feminine ode to the brand’s legacy, SS19 first payed homage to Burberry’s rich heritage and Christopher Bailey’s 17-year tenure as Creative Director. We’re talking trench coats, camel tones and of course, it’s iconic print.
But then, as the show’s momentum built, the Italian designer laid a distinctive foundation for his own vision of modern luxury. Featuring looks ranging from red vinyl to cow print, Tisci introduced streetwear and a revamp of the brand’s signature monogram.
A standing ovation, please.
4. It’s birthday season.
On Saturday, both Mary Katranzou and J.W Anderson – two of London’s most distinguished designers – celebrated 10 years showing at London Fashion Week.
For her anniversary show, Central Saint Martins graduate Mary explored the concept of a “collection” itself, unpicking the idea of being a collector. A celebration of the maximalist prints she’s known best for, we saw structured dresses made from oversized, embroidered postage stamps and butterfly motifs. A hoarder’s heaven.
Meanwhile, inspired by the British Aestheticism movement, which championed “art for art’s sake”, J.W Anderson presented a heartwarming ode to creativity and beauty. It felt pure and unique and mature – a fitting way to celebrate the brand.
5. Ashley Williams serves punky, give-a-fuck glam.
“Retired and loving it” was the standout slogan of Ashley Williams’ collection. Emblazoned across jumpers, t-shirts and vests for a wacky grandma vibe, the phrase represents the spirit of the season: fashion is supposed to be fun!
Lead by The Florida Project’s Bria Vinaite, (an undisputed bad bitch), Ashley’s girls wore newspaper print and pink zebra, PVC and tiger two-pieces, lurid neon green and sporty pink fluff.
Gravity-defying hair looks were adorned with her signature diamante jewelry, reading statements like “DAMAGED ANGEL” and “100% DEVIL.” We’ll be stocking up for Monday morning, please.
6. Supriya Lele graduates from Fashion East.
House of Holland, Simone Rocha, Art School… the LFW schedule affirms the enduring influence of non-profit initiative Fashion East.
This year Supriya Lele, who debuted with the organisation for AW17, flew its nest with her first solo presentation. Innovative but completely wearable, it’s fair to say she graduated with flying colours.
Known for exploring aspects of her Indian and British cultural identity, Supriya reinterpreted traditional Indian silhouettes alongside a grittier London aesthetic.
Featuring asymetric ruching, neon sheer, crochet crop tops and steely black silk, the collection cemented her position as one of the most exciting emerging British designers. We. Are. Obsessed. Congrats Supriya!
7. Vivienne Westwood stans Matty Bovan.
Matty Bovan epitomises the unapologetic, experimental outlook that sets LFW apart.
For his second solo show, he gave us next-level maximalism, with off-kilter ballerina ball gowns and hand-drawn dresses. Accessorised with extravagant headpieces and oversized glitter earrings, each look embodied the craft and creativity he champions.
Basking in the magic on the front row was Vivienne Westwood – a clear influence on Matty’s aesthetic and attitude.“This is my friend Matty”, she proclaimed, embracing him backstage. “He’s a punk, and what’s more, he’s an activist.”
“I have a lot of conflicting thoughts, a lot of unrest about the political climate we live in”, echoed Matty’s press release: “The only thing I can do in response to that is bang a drum, hard, for the idea of being yourself.”
Until next time, London.