Riccardo Tisci debuts a divine first collection for the brand.

At 5pm yesterday, London stood still for 20 minutes to absorb the dawn of a new Burberry. Held in an old post office sorting centre, the minimalist space was lit with bright, ceremonial light as the first model stepped onto the runway, symbolic of the start of a new era for the brand.

Since taking over as Chief Creative Officer from Christopher Bailey earlier this year, Italian designer Riccardo Tisci’s approach has garnered much speculation. Would we see an aesthetic crossover from his 12-year stint as Creative director of Givenchy? How would he interpret Burberry’s affiliation with “Britishness”, in a time where national identity is so unstable? And after Christopher Bailey’s 17-year tenure at the helm, how can the brand’s legacy be explored in new ways?

With a grand total of 134 looks – yes, really – Tisci answered all of our questions and more. The collection reinterpreted Burberry’s heritage, working in a range of diverse influences to form a collection that was highly varied but succinct.

The show opened with smart, sensual feminine fits in neutral tones. Tisci reimagined brand’s iconic silhouettes and colour palette, also debuting its new monogram, as designed by Peter Saville. To follow was a punkier range of womensear, featuring red vinyl, harnesses, gold fringing and even dashes of cow print.

For the men, the collection included a similar progression of smart to casual, from sharp tailoring and ponchos to pastel polo shirts with monogrammed basketball shorts.

Celebrating the diversity and eccentricity within British culture, SS19 revitalised luxury for all. “I was inspired by how much London – the city that made me dream to become a designer – has evolved”, explained Tisci. “This show is a celebration of the cultures, the traditions and the codes of this historic fashion house and of the eclecticism that makes up the beautifully diverse United Kingdom.”

Relive the magic below.

Pieces from the collection are now available to buy for 24 hours exclusively on Instagram, WeChat and at Burberry’s London flagship store, 121 Regent Street.

Rosie Byers