Our fave shows from this weekend.
If you choose to believe the rumours that London Fashion Week Men’s is in hot water, you’d be wrong – and this season proved it. Adorned in big-budget production, intricate, detailied design and the entirety of London’s vibrant fashion crowd out to support, the SS19 collections solidified the city as a hotspot for emerging talent in Menswear design. From Martine Rose’s Street Party perfection to Art School’s array of conceptual characters, there was something for everyone at this season’s showcases.
Despite being far too many to choose from, we highlight 7 of our fave shows from London Fashion Week Mens, and give you a sneak peak into what you’ll find in our wardrobe next Spring/Summer season.
With the fancy dress fanatics, Princess Julia and an army of conceptual characters, could MAN ever disappoint? Stefan Cooke opened proceedings, with divine knitwear and quirky accessories. We were obsessed with the bags, which had painted pictures of handbags on them. Checks were a signature throughout, with blue, red and black tartan appearing across coats and trousers. Shining a light on the brands ability to make something intricate and detailed, some tops were made entirely of buttons. Rottingdean Bazaar stayed true to form with an outlandish offering of fancy dress costumes. Carrying signs detailing the stores from which they were sourced, models donned carrot outfits, interpretations of Lily Savage and David Bowie and a giant round World. To close the show, Art School delivered a knockout collection. Opened by London icon Princess Julia, who has appeared in the show for the past few seasons, models stormed/fell/ danced down the runway. Munroe Bergdorf even made an appearance.
After skipping last season, the Queen of the North (London) is back, and seriously better than ever. Shutting down an entire street in Camden, the Tottenham-born designer sought to showcase her love of London by throwing a great street party complete with booming garage music, burgers and beers and an incredible new collection that you’ll want in your wardrobe come next Spring. Bold patterns and prints took centre stage/street, with colourful diamond sweaters, plenty of plaid and stripes and lots (seriously lots) of animal prints – we’re talking leopard print trousers and bombers. Rose sought to bring “something good” to North London, and that’s exactly what she did. The Balenciaga consultant once again has pulled out all the stop to create a collection of pieces that you don’t just want, but need in your SS wardrobe.
In his debut runway show, Daniel w. Fletcher served up what he does best. Ethereal designs with an edge. A true development from his last season, the politcally driven designer teamed up with Caitlin Keogh to create unique artistic prints across silk shirts – a development from his last collection where he used to his own artwork as a driving body for his work. Classic tailoring with a twist saw trousers and jackets with naked, contrast seams. Leather was predominant throughout, with jackets, trousers and vests all getting the brown Dw.F treatment. Despite being in the Saturday morning death slot at 9am, it was a stellar turnout and the start of big beginnings for the brand. Last season, his AW18 presentation was massively over-subscribed, with people having to wait at the door to be let in, so it seems only fitting that Fletcher has made his progression to runway level.
After taking a trip to Las Vegas, Liam Hodges was inspired by Sin City – alongside Donna Tartt’s 2013 novel The Goldfinch and Robert Venturi’s 1972-penned book Learning From Las Vegas – to create his LFWM show “Slick Trash”. Taking a look at Vegas through Hodges’ eyes, the dystopian and coming-of-age themes were clear, with clashing patterns and laid back designs highlighted throughout the collection. This was also the third season of Hodges’ collaboration with FILA, and this time around we saw Hodges’ take on the chunky silhouette of the Mindblower show. If that’s not enough, the show was also graphic tees galore with a centurion chest plate, the nuclear testing museum inspired “Alone Together” design and another inspired by the previously mentioned The Goldfinch which read “I’ll shave my head I guess and get a tattoo.” Catch us copping all of them as soon as we can.
After running around London trying to navigate Citymapper just right so you get to shows on time, Cottweiler gave us exactly what we needed as they invited us into their wellbeing and relaxation spa. Promising “a new golden age of personal revival”, guests got zen on low cushioned benches as sounds of running water and mantras soundtracked the event and tracksuit clad models took to the runway. Giving us a masculine take on wellness chic, there was even yoga mats and pucker marks (side note: cupping looks painful) to transport us into Cottweiler’s spa. Hot and sweaty in all the right ways…
Six months after being named emerging menswear designer of the year at the Fashion Awards, it was no surprise that the British Fashion Council show space was rammed with guests eager to see Charles Jeffrey Loverboy. As a choir began to sing, the lights dimmed and the buzz for the collection was clear. Titled “Emergence”, the show saw sportswear through the weird and wonderful eyes of Jeffrey and also explored elements of sci-fi due to Jeffrey’s fascination with sci-fi films and video games growing up. As we all expected, it was a stunning performance and a brilliant spectacle, and further proof that of the “emerging menswear designers” Jeffrey is the one you should be paying attention to.
A naked bloodied man crawling across the floor in front of Virgil Abloh is not how you expect to start your Sunday morning, but at this season’s A-COLD-WALL show, that’s exactly what we got. After being handed safety equipment upon entering, which included a face mask, protective eye-wear and ear buds, you might be forgiven for believing that Truman Brewery was going to collapse around you at any minute. And with a collection this transgressive and poignant, it very much is an earth-shattering affair. Everything from the colour palette to the cuts were reflective of the Britain’s architectures and structures, particularly those of the brutalist kind, something that designer and founder Samuel Ross paid close attention to this season. Human. Form. Structure. Acted as the main source of inspo for the SS19 offering, and that’s exactly what we got. This is the start of a new era for A-COLD-WALL, and we’re very much into it.