If there’s a designer duo better suited to bringing Henri Rousseau’s 19th century paintings to life, we’d like to see them fight it out with Humerto Leon and Carol Lim, frankly. For the pair’s latest Kenzo offering, Rousseau’s work was reimagined in the form of a fabric, from which jackets, trousers and skirts were produced; perhaps most wonderfully though, knitwear was likewise fronted by the artist’s work. Divine.
7 WONDERS: PARIS FASHION WEEK
The AW18 looks that stole the show.
Kenzo La Collection Memento
Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
Yes, there was a seriously decent floral montage that packed a punch from look 59 onwards at Saint Laurent this season – marrying 40s chic with 80s shoulders – but it was Vaccarello’s black frocks, and predominantly the mini variety, that really shook us. Using the dress as a vehicle to explore shape (those necklines!), the formula – feat. barely there 40 deniers, strappy sandals and heavy duty diamond earrings – proved every fan’s LBD dream a reality.
While house and personal codes were Demna Gvaslia’s focus for the season, the way these were translated was split into two primary groups: those that championed body-con, and those looks that played with layering in a way not seen since Friends aired the first time around. In addition to shirts however, here were bright coloured faux furs, knitted jumpers, pencil skirts and skin tight boots.
A fashion collection is a sum of many parts, we’re in no doubt, but there’s no denying the introduction provided by Virgil Abloh at this season’s Off-White show: enter looks 1, 2, 3 and a cool blue “Off-White pattern” (read: tapestry). Inspired by equestrian sports, the fabric politely lent itself to bandeau style tops and hot pants alike, modernising an otherwise quite traditional creative form.
“Designed by a sculptor, these are garments conceived in three dimensions, to fit and shift with the shape of the wearer,” offer the press notes that accompany the latest collection from Anna Blessmann. A wardrobe comprised purely of blue, navy and white (a theme this season, apparently), our only thought is which jumpsuit to wear first.
While the introductory stonewashed denim caused much of a stir (Miu Miu may be Prada’s little sister, but she’s still a lady), it was the leather jackets in all their oversized variations that won us over at Tuesday’s Elle Fanning-starring-show. Coming through belted in lavender, full length and cream coloured with girlish puffed sleeves, and rebellious in black with an XL sized collar, biker chic never looked, literally, so chic.
Described as “a kind of Indian summer” by Karl Lagerfeld backstage (a reference no doubt to the burnt leaves that covered the catwalk), Chanel’s 80+ looks saw an emphasis on ankle length tweed, but it was the party vibes that appeared later which had us hooked. Partnering black lace and brightly covered leather gloves, looks 70 and 71 (worn by Kaia Gerber and Binx Walton no less), performed as dream like pieces of polished perfection.