MFW: TOP FOUR
The AW18 shows that proved too good to be true.
Opened by Anok Yai – notably the first black model to open a Prada show since Naomi Campbell in 1997, and an absolute joy here in a padded black frock – Miuccia Prada’s latest offering was everything. Like, actually, everything.
Championing chic silhouettes (the bulk padded out to explore something more contemporary, several with notes of tulle), looks married neon bright shades with calming camel, while accessories took the form of office style name tags, leather handbags and dreamy quilted clutches.
Think of the house’s classic black nylon bag (she of 90s fame) re-appropriated for 2018, add a splash of your wildest glow in the dark dreams, some shoutouts to the world wide web, and you’d be close to what we saw last week.
Three years since Alessandro Michele first began creating apparel waves for the house, for AW18 Gucci’s Creative Director only went harder: see the “sawn off” heads carried by a model pair, a v. realistic third eye placed on another’s forehead, and copious amounts of jewels. Indeed, of the 90 looks that walked MFW, none was bare (though we can’t help but note the problematic turbans, something of a sigh amongst an otherwise delight).
Inspired, Michele told a press conference post-show, by the feminist philosopher Donna Haraway’s 1984 A Cyborg Manifesto: Science, Technology, and Socialist-Feminism in the Late Twentieth Century, the collection was rich in prints, layers and textures, with velvet, fur and lace featuring throughout, and translucent garment bags doing a sterling job in place of those cheap see-through rain macs you might buy by the sea. Into it.
Somewhere between Scooby Doo’s gang and Jackie O is where Jeremy Scott seemed to place Moschino for AW18, with a collection strong in silhouettes mirroring the latter’s iconic two-piece suits, bold colour, and wigs; a shoutout too to the Star Trek/Black Mirror nods, prominent amongst those models whose limbs where painted blue, green, yellow and purple.
Away from the very proper uniform, nods to biker jackets were apparent in the small details (think zips, collars and the like), while comic book cereal prints were splashed across skirts, tops and frocks. About as Jeremy Scott as it gets, surely?
Wipe clean fabrics and ladylike shapes – two otherwise particularly opposing concepts – combined to provide the order of the day at Fendi this season, as the house presented 47 looks that riffed on the two vibes against a palette comprised predominantly of neutral colours (brown did well for AW18).
And for good reason – the house went hell for its double F logo, with leggings, macs and furs alike, each smothered in the iconic print. Leather boots and woollen rollnecks provided a vehicle for pops of colour (the latter layered so only the neck was visible), while shoulders were a further code to the look. Think sassy, but reign it in.