Is fashion art? Can art ever be considered fashion? They’re the kind of questions that hover around certain designers, particular collections, and at various moments in pop culture, not least where Mary Katrantzou is concerned.

Athens-born, London-based and Rhodes Island-educated (with an additional BA and MA from CSM), the designer launched her namesake label a decade ago and has since picked up the Swiss Textiles Award (2010) and the Vogue Designer Fashion Fund in 2015; now she’s embarking on a solo show of her wares in Texas, with the launch of Mary, Queen of Prints at Dallas Contemporary.

In tandem with the museum’s 40th anniversary, the show explores Katrantzou’s innovative body of work and the world in which it lives, comprising 200 garments alongside accessories, sketches and textiles. Curated by Peter Doroshenko and Justine Ludwig (Museum Director and Director of Exhibitions respectively), visually it nods to Mary’s often rainbow led aesthetic, arranged via colour rather than chronologically.

“Digital print,” comments the designer of her work, “allows me to experiment with print in a way that fine art and other methods could not. It opens up a huge spectrum for possibility; I can create possibility out of impossibility, surrealism out of realism and both vice versa.”

On display at “one of the only institutions of its kind in the United States” – the space models itself on European art centres – until 18 March (more here), the show will no doubt be a unique encounter for anyone in the South this spring.