The king of London menswear as far as anyone worth listening to is concerned (be assured we’ve explored Twitter, done our Instagram homework and overheard the right IRL conversations), Craig Green’s eighth solo show at London Fashion Week Men’s maintained the same level of quality previously proposed by the label, elsewhere expanding on the house codes that have propelled the label to such status. If ever there was a recipe for success, understanding and retaining your best features would certainly be up there.
In the same vein, Green’s knitwear – a highlight in previous seasons, such as AW15 when waves were made with the introduction of hole punched jumpers – here took on a new form within Craig’s world: thick knitted strands became panels in several looks, while others passed by with jumpers elsewhere uniting contemporary cut-out details and cotton jersey with more traditional crotchet vibes.
“Moving or situated in the opposite direction from that in which a stream or river flows” is the first definition of the term “upstream” on Google. In the context of Craig Green there’s references to be placed both on the direction of the label (at a time when questions are being raised about “what next” for menswear, his is a business that is, actually, thriving), and the visuals presented on Monday’s runway, with plenty of nods to being at sea, as well as a number of physical vessels attached to models’ bodies (another, quite brilliant, Craig Green trait).