Fashion East’s latest bunch bring it.
A year on from the label’s song and dance introduction at the Old Selfridges Hotel, Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt’s second catwalk turn welcomed a collection fierce in its focus on tailoring; a familiarity of Art School (smart leaning silhouettes, whether Viviennne Westwood inspired or with a nod to Cher Horowitz, have proudly sat beside their satin frocks previously), and here the ante was further upped, with a bright blue suit of velvet and a well fitted black look. Elsewhere the glamourous sandals of seasons past were swapped for pointed black boots (this being Autumn Winter, after all), while a standout moment arrived with a military inspired mint green satin coat.
Rottingdean Bazaar don’t so much present fashion looks as explore ideas of culture. Borrowing from their surroundings (designers James Theseus Buck and Luke Brooks are based in Rottingdean), the pair’s creations – which meant XL sized inflatables hand-shrunken in-house, a plain white sweatshirt fixed with “PERSONALIZED CHEESE BOARDS” on a cheese board, and a full “outfit” of supermarket stickers for AW18 – are as much a pull for Instagram as the latest #streetstyle look from a tween vlogger, such is the visual stimulation and attention to detail attached. Long may their ideas be front and centre.
The newbie of the MAN trio, a former Craig Green intern and recent H&M Design Award winner, Stefan Cooke’s fashion week debut proposed a Hedi Slimane referencing narrow silhouette, trompe l’oeil, and traditionally granny handbags (you know the kind), encased in Perspex. Building on ideas previously showcased in his MA collection, Cooke here riffed on the everyday, meaning casual knits, jeans and suiting were reimagined in new fabrics (that trompe l’oeil…) and remodelled with cut outs details. We’re here for it.