Wonderland.

MFW: MOSCHINO SS18

Peonies and ponies for all at Jeremy Scott’s latest showcase.

Barbie Ballerina Meets Riot Grrrl

Curtain up! Moschino’s SS18 show was literally what we expected: a show. For the first section of the collection, creative genius Jeremy Scott tapped into ballet and 90s punk iconography. Enthusiasts of Avril Lavigne and studded belts – rejoice! Studs and chains were all over – from boots to chokers, hats and bracelets. And if you’re on the girlier side, the designer might make your nine-year-old dreams come true with feather and tulle tutus in a selection of soft pastel colours. Speaking of feathers, the designer stayed true to himself and played around with cultural references, showcasing Swan Lake-like costumes with My Little Pony handbags. Ever since SpongeBob and the McDonald’s logo made it onto his designs, the Missouri-born creative director has taken on the mission of blurring lines between so-called high and low fashion.

Flower Power

In case the punk ball had not been enough candy eye – and food for thought – Jeremy Scott dropped jaws with a flower themed – and that’s an understatement – second half. A model dressed as a peonie strutted down the runway, playing some sort of “he loves me, he loves me not” game pulling pink petals from her top as she walked. Above the knee boots – worn by blooming Kaia Gerber – turned into flower pots and models were, literally, bouquets, flowers wrapped in white gauze.

Have a Laugh

Famously dubbed “The People’s Designer”, fashion’s most notorious enfant terrible does not miss a chance to incorporate humour into the collection. To a soundtrack that whispered “become famous or kill yourself”, he preached self-mockery and pushed the fashion world to take itself less seriously. This collection was in line with the designer’s philosophy and proved that Moschino can endlessly reinvent itself and revolutionise the codes of the fashion establishment. As for the Moschino woman, whether she is a candy-hued punk bird or a blooming tulip – swapping the studded casket for a cute diadem and vice-versa – she is always queen of self-expression, regardless of the crown she is wearing.

Words
Clara Hernanz